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Thread: Rubbing noise

  1. #11
    ff_jeff Guest
    if he is a medic, he is busy like me on the holiday, We work while yall play.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Union, MO
    Posts
    510
    I don't get a shimmy in the steering wheel, the sound stays the same while turning. I priced rotors, pads, etc. I might as well pay the $100.00 deductible and let the extended warranty take care of it. It's defiantly a rub. There is no grinding or anything.
    2010 Silverado ECSB LS 4x4. Only mods so far are a K&N drop in filter and a Rough Country 2" front level kit

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth
    Posts
    9,578
    Take off your wheel and caliper and check the thickness of the pad. You caliper slides may be locked up, causing your pad to rub on the rotor. If your pads are fine, take the rotor off and take it up to O'Reillys and spend the $7 to have them machine it flat. If that doesn't solve your problem, then it has to be the bearings. Make sure to get races for the bearings too. If you do the pass side, might as well to the driver's side...
    Last edited by txarkitekt; 01-02-2008 at 12:54 PM.

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

  4. #14
    ff_jeff Guest
    also could be the wheel is not seated right on the hub. If the noise is while braking than no doubt use the warranty.

  5. #15
    HotRodV6 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by txarkitekt View Post
    Take off your wheel and caliper and check the thickness of the pad. You caliper slides may be locked up, causing your pad to rub on the rotor. If your pads are fine, take the rotor off and take it up to O'Reillys and spend the $7 to have them machine it flat. If that doesn't solve your problem, then it has to be the bearings. Make sure to get races for the bearings too. If you do the pass side, might as well to the driver's side...

    On these trucks the wheel bearings are a sealed hub setup, you cant just replace the bearings and race like the old style, you have to replace the whole hub, usually around 100 bucks each, or 350 or so each from the dealer.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Union, MO
    Posts
    510
    Yeah, I think I'll pay the $100 deductible and let the dealership take care of it.
    2010 Silverado ECSB LS 4x4. Only mods so far are a K&N drop in filter and a Rough Country 2" front level kit

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    5,301
    sounds like a good idea. when i use to work at an auto shop, we would have that complaint and the problem was from rust on the rotor. it was built up on the lip of the rotor and would lightly rub on the pads.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Union, MO
    Posts
    510
    So it was time to buy new tires. Had Goodyear 235/75/16. Now have Remington Wide Brute 265/70/16. My power steering whine is gone, my alignment is straight, and the rubbing noise is gone. Those old tires must have been SH*T! LOL
    2010 Silverado ECSB LS 4x4. Only mods so far are a K&N drop in filter and a Rough Country 2" front level kit

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