edelbrock intake manifold swap.. what all is needed

[whitesilvy04]

not picking on your manifold choice.. what are you trying to do?
save this idea for the fbody race car...
i see in your sig somethings have been done... i think your looking for
something that doesnt exist or youve got some issues elsewhere in power
devolpment...
4.10 tells me you are racing a 1/8mi, stall (? stall) and thats it....
the tune is good, but there is better..
get a better exhaust before wrinkling the OE system intake manifold...
and get a camshaft in there that works better at 3500-6200rpm...stock
isnt that camshaft.
http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/front...in-budget.html

airdeano

Your correct my truck is more setup for the 1/8th then the 1/4. I have a 3200 stall and i was thinking of going with the TR224 later down the road. I just find that this particular intake swap just looks so cool looking under the hood and if i do get that i can get probably some really good show points at car shows if i show open hood with this kind of clean setup and be able to get a little more power because i doubt very many silverados that are going to be showing are going to be having it... so basically i'm going for show and go...

[skeet]

Your correct my truck is more setup for the 1/8th then the 1/4. I have a 3200 stall and i was thinking of going with the TR224 later down the road. I just find that this particular intake swap just looks so cool looking under the hood and if i do get that i can get probably some really good show points at car shows if i show open hood with this kind of clean setup and be able to get a little more power because i doubt very many silverados that are going to be showing are going to be having it... so basically i'm going for show and go...

well if youre definately looking for show then it would bring some good praise i get it all the time even though the truck isnt a show truck all i hear is 9 wow) about the set up. heres a pic of mine ..

[Hit Man X]

If you plan a single pattern 224 cam, I hope you plan to get some better flowing heads on there first.

[whitesilvy04]

If you plan a single pattern 224 cam, I hope you plan to get some better flowing heads on there first.

I was planning on working on the heads after the headers and cam but ....I know on a N/A engine your biggest gains will come from the heads/cam swap.

I have a second set of 4.8/5.3 heads in storage that i was planning on upgrading once i found a good mill shop

I dont want to be screwed over and pay more then i should...I know no one does...

Any of you know whats a good ballpark range i should be looking at pricewise for parts and labor to Fully p&p, add slightly bigger valves, valve guides, valve seats, etc...????

[Hit Man X]

Well there are many fools that will slap in the biggest cam they can find and wonder why their vehicle isn't much quicker. Your best bet is to do the heads first, then have a cam ground to match them.

I wouldn't go to larger valves, they're plenty large for the bore you have currently. Anything more you'll start to hurt port velocity and lose torque.

$400-600 is reasonable to have them cleaned up using stock hardware. Then just budget your springs, retainers, and such.

[txarkitekt]

Well there are many fools that will slap in the biggest cam they can find and wonder why their vehicle isn't much quicker. Your best bet is to do the heads first, then have a cam ground to match them.

I wouldn't go to larger valves, they're plenty large for the bore you have currently. Anything more you'll start to hurt port velocity and lose torque.

$400-600 is reasonable to have them cleaned up using stock hardware. Then just budget your springs, retainers, and such.

Very true statement. Keep your stock heads and do a 3 angle valve job, have the whole valvetrain balanced, do new valve seals, have the heads "cleaned up", get some Comp 918 valve springs, keep the stock retainers (depending on mileage), throw in some hardened pushrods, and the you will be set with your heads. Once that is done, you can then pick out your cam...

[Hit Man X]

Unless you have some wild lift (which is foolish on these heads with small valves even ported) just run some LS6 springs. I run the orange units with my cam (it's a .551" lift, too much lift but the tight LSA and lower durations I wanted) and it's great! No point in wasting $100 if not needed.

Also, I have titanium retainers on my truck. They're only about 0.1g less than the stock units... so not sure if I'd recommend them either. I was expecting less weight but I assume the strength is higher. They're not steel as the retainers I have are non-ferrous (non-magnetic).