u joint help

[jplowman2005]

im in the process of a 6.0/80e swap in my 1500 silverado.. i have a 2500hd driveshaft that is the right length but on the gear end the u joint is bigger than whats coming out of my rear end.. not shure if any of these options are doable but i was thinking of somehow mixing 2 joints, smaller on one set than the other? next i was thinking maybe i could get the part on the rear end that connects to the u joint from the 2500hd and swap it out with mine and just be able to use a 2500 u joint but im not shure if they have different splines or somthing that would keep me from doing that... at worst case i could use my 1500 driveshaft and have cut down, welded back and balanced which seems alot pricer if i could get one of the other options to work.. anyone have any suggestions

[jansen]

You could change your yolk on your rear end or you could get a conversion joint. I don't know what people are charging to shorten and balance but where I work we only charge 50 bucks. Rear end yolk would be around 60. Conversion joint would be around 20.

[Slowcrewcab]

You could change your yolk on your rear end or you could get a conversion joint. I don't know what people are charging to shorten and balance but where I work we only charge 50 bucks. Rear end yolk would be around 60. Conversion joint would be around 20.

Wow that's a good price! When I had driveline shortened when I done the 350 swap into my yota I think it was 125

[jansen]

My gosh 125 is rape! We can re tube a shaft for 125. Shortening , welding it back up, and balancing is only a 20 min job.

[Slowcrewcab]

My gosh 125 is rape! We can re tube a shaft for 125. Shortening , welding it back up, and balancing is only a 20 min job.

I thought it was steep. We don't have a driveline shop around here so I took it to a local machine shop

[jplowman2005]

so would the yoke be the same? i figured since the rear end was bigger on the hd that it would be different... i can get the yoke for free from the guy i got the parts from, he still has the rear end from the truck..my question now is will i mess any mesh or crush on the rear end if i remove that bolt to change yokes then re tq it

[jansen]

No you'll have to buy one for your rear end that uses the bigger joint.

[ImportThis]

either change the rear end yoke, or buy a crossover u-joint. but whatever you do, dont buy any of that vatozone bs.. you'll be changing them out monthly. find a shop that actually carries Neapco or Spicer joints, spend the extra money to buy non greasable.

[jansen]

Why the hell would you want to buy non greasable? I change at least 30 u joints a day and I have never replaced one because it was greased to much.

[ImportThis]

if you buy a good non greasable, they will last you 100k+.. why else would basically ALL new vehicles come with non greasable ujoints?? and 90% of them last 100k plus.. I work in a driveline shop. non greasable is the best damn thing you can buy, if you buy a good quality joint like Neapco or Spicer. If you work at a reputable driveline shop you should know that a good non greasable is better than a greasable any day. if you can put grease in it, you can get water in it, and water in a ujoint will ruin it. Spicer ujoints are triple sealed, plus a plastic seal over that. i may be stupid, but do a lil research, and ill seem like i know what im talkin about.