Need NOS! Need Help!

[beingblueeyes]

Research.

+1 amazon has some good books
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/076...RD3TMAD2F5T81B

[DamnYankee]

Or go to a performance truck forum and ask questions.

Oh wait, that's what he did.

[oleshifty]

You can pick up pretty good deals on here, and on ebay. I would research it for a couple weeks while you wait for a good deal.


There are millions of places to read up on nitrous, this pops to the top of my head (probably because it was the most recent I saw). It's a good read, but not the ONLY research you should do.



http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f11/al...d-to-ask-6460/




If you have any other questions pl4yboy, myself, frenchy, lambo, a few others are all running nitrous, and can probably help (i asked lambo/pl4yboy a ton of questions before I hooked my kit up, so they probably know a bit more then me)

[Show&Go]

Spray is a great equalizer. But since it hasn't already been said... A 150 shot on stock springs wouldn't be my choice of things to do. But imma safety nut. I'd vote stall and cam KIT which would have springs and pushrods with it. Then move forward with spray. I'd call nitriousoutlet also. Prob find a little better deal

[oleshifty]

Just a quick search

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nitro...Q5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS2-L...Q5fAccessories



I would also recommend a tune (if you don't have one) from casey or nelson performance, a set of br6ef NGK spark plugs, and a purge kit. Once you get the hang of it, bottle heaters are GREAT (but not really necessary at this stage of the game, unless you live in alaska).

I prefer "simple is better" when it comes to nitrous. I tried hooking up one of those fancy window switches when I first got my kit, and had nothing but problems. I have it wired through an 'arm" toggle switch, a 'wot microswitch', and a push button. All 3 have to be active before it works. You NEVER want to spray below 2800-3000 rpm. Spraying through shifts is up to you/your trans. I have done it a couple times, I normally try to avoid it. (I'm riding a stock trans with 170k miles). I would put a 75 shot in it first, get it dialed in, make sure you're comfortable with it, then step up to a 125-150 shot. A wideband oxygen sensor helps for tuning, learning the basics of reading spark plugs helps a lot too. I usually use it on a back country road, shut truck off right after I'm done spraying, slip it in neutral, pull over, let it cool a few minutes, pull a plug, and see what the kit is doing. They recommend changing the plugs every 3-4 bottles. I went through 8 bottles last season, on same plugs, and they still looked new. So that's up to you.


Edit: as far as springs...that's a valid point, but a lot of people are doing it. I've run 175ish through my truck for a few bottles. Pl4yboy has run 150ish shot through a few "stock internal" motors. It's a possibility. You could have a fuel solenoid go out and burn a piston/valve. It could puddle up and blow an intake off. If you're racing your truck, you have to be able to accept if something goes wrong. If you follow 'nitrous rules' it's not as likely, but still a possibility. I personally trust stock springs over aftermarket ones. Aftermarket ones wear out, get brittle, etc. For mild applications, I think stock can hold up fine. I have aftermarket springs laying around for when my cam/new heads go in, but for a stock cam on nitrous, not sure it's necessary.

[NoTaTurBo]

got ya man thx for all the info

[pl4yboy]

For a budget kit, you cant beat the Brand X kits that nitrous outlet sells. For a beginner, I suggest a dry kit and a 100 shot. If you decide you like nitrous on down the road and after you have figured a little bit out about it, you can step up to a wet kit and a 150 shot. On a dry 100, you can keep a motor tune and if you run the bottle too low, it isn't going to hurt it nearly as much as a fuel backfire will with a wet kit. Another thing you need is a wideband. A wideband will tell you instantly if there is an issue while you are spraying. If you look up and see the AFR way off, you know instantly that something isn't right. Also, I suggest a window switch and a WOT switch in combination. With a window switch, even an idiot can't spray too soon and backfire (not that it will backfire with a dry shot). Also on a 60e trans, a window switch would allow you to skip spraying through shifts. Any other questions (wiring or general questions), you can PM me. I can wire a fence post to do the robot.

[NoTaTurBo]

lol i hear ya bud. thanks alot man. ima see what happens in the next couple of days before i choose between cam and stall or nitrous...

[pl4yboy]

lol i hear ya bud. thanks alot man. ima see what happens in the next couple of days before i choose between cam and stall or nitrous...

Cam and stall. The power is always there and doesn't cost 50$ every 5 runs you make.

[NoTaTurBo]

true but a cam and stall is a good bit more money