The reason I said that 6-lug wheels were plentiful is because everything (1/2T anyway) built since '99 uses a six lug wheel. Dont look for 2500 wheels, (theyre ugly anyway), just look for wheels off of a newer truck and youre golden. The offset on most of the factory alloys is such that they usually tuck really well too.Originally Posted by 90'rado
Oh, and if you really want to use the Hoe ones, just use a small spacer.
I just started looking for wheels with a 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern rather than for a C2500. A custom made spacer would probably work, but that would be getting pricey when I could just get a whole new set of wheels for not a whole lot more. I put a couple washers on the lug studs to see what that gave me and it did space it away, but it wouldn't really let the wheel hub center on the axle flange like it's supposed to.
Actually, 1/4" spacers are just a couple bucks and available from just about any parts store.
Hmm, well do you know of any p/n's, cuz I might look into trying those?? I always try to go into the parts stores with part numbers in mind, it helps expedite the process when dealing with the counter jockeys.
When I stacked two washers per stud it gave me the clearance I needed but it was too far out for the wheel to bolt on securely. I might try just one washer per stud and see what that gives since the tire is just barely rubbing.
I think when it's all said and done I might just get some new wheels altogether, I always see decent stuff on craigslist at decent prices.
Edit:
does anyone know what backspacing these wheels might have? I found a set of 4, with tires for 100 bucks, sounds like a pretty good deal to me no?
Last edited by 90'rado; 08-23-2010 at 05:31 PM.
No, no part #s. Theyre just a universal spacer with a few different bolt patterns. Most tire shops should carry them too. Dont stack them, and dont go over 1/4" unless you want to get the billet ones (think $$$$).
For you guys with the T56, what did you do for the drive shaft? The stock aluminum one behind the 5 speed is a couple inches too long. This is for a LB.
Thanks again.
-gl18rider
Last edited by gl18rider; 09-08-2010 at 04:06 PM.
I did nothing to my drive-shaft after the swap, stuck it right in and drove off, two years or so ago when I finished the swap.
The F bodyT56 has a 27 spline output shaft just like the 4L60(e), so the yokes from either can generally be interchanged. I'm not aware of anybody running a T56 in a longbed that was originally a 5 speed truck, but I'm sure it can't be that much more difficult than a 4L60(e)-->T56 swap.
What trans is your 5 speed? NV3500 or 4500 I'd guess? I don't know alot about either of those transmissions. The main questions are: how does the overall length of whatever trans you have compare to that of a T56 or 4L60(e)?? (T56 & '60 are same length). And, what is the output shaft spline count for yoke compatibility?
I think I remember pnhigg saying that he had to shorten his driveshaft for the swap. I believe he went from V6&5-speed to 5.3&T56.
I'm now considering some options to upgrade my driveshaft to something stronger, as the one I've been running is the original 20 year old 1/2 ton driveshaft. Time for something more beefy, whatever that might be.
Last edited by 90'rado; 11-10-2010 at 09:16 PM.
The guy helping me found someone to shorten the stock drive shaft about 1.5". The interesting part was the truck ujoint saddles were 1 1/16" I think and the f-body was 1 1/8". He looked around and found a ujoint with 2 different cup sizes. He suggested replacing the original rear joint while at it and discovered the stock rear was exactly what he'd been looking for.
I think my orig trans was the NV3500/MG5.
305/5spd/RCLB -> LS1/T56
The driveshaft will not need to be shortened when going from SBC and auto to LSX and T56 if you keep the same rearend. For you guys swapping to 14bolt semi float the driveshaft has to be shortened, how much I dont remember. Just make sure that the shop that shortens it also has the ability to balance it. And the 90-93 SS454 was the only 14bolt semi floater with 5 on 5 lug pattern that is a direct bolt in. They are getting tough to find and the original Gov-Loc traction device is usually trashed, when you find one plan on using an Eaton or Auburn plus gears plus installation plus shortened driveshaft. They get expensive fast!
The Shoenfeld headers fit great.
Hey 88stepside I'm running a 14 bolt SF rear and I didn't have to shorten the driveshaft. Granted I'm still running the TBI SBC 350 with my T56 combo, but this is the first I've heard of driveshaft shortening being a requirement. Can you please elaborate? Is this due to the difference in the block dimensions from the SBC vs. LSx blocks or what??? From what I've read, the LSx engines are actually smaller in terms of external dimensions.
I know plenty of guys who have done the 14 bolt swap in place of the 10 bolt and none that I'm aware of had to change anything with the driveshaft.
On a side note, you're right about the 90-93 SS454 14 bolt semi floaters gettin harder to find and more expensive. What I did was to get a 14 bolt SF from an 89 C2500 LD. It was 6 lug, so I DID have to convert the front to 6 lug to match, but it was maybe a little cheaper and easier than hunting down an original 5 lug 14 bolt SF from a 454SS.
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