hey i have got a stupid question do you guys have the part number for the pumps your putting in your tanks. i picked up a 255 universal i am just not sure if its right because its a inline one.
hey i have got a stupid question do you guys have the part number for the pumps your putting in your tanks. i picked up a 255 universal i am just not sure if its right because its a inline one.
2000 GMC Sierra
6" pro comp suspension
3" body lift
2.5" truxx leveling kit
37" micky thompson mtz
pacesetter long tubes-offroad y-pipe-no cats-morroso muffler-MSD coils and wires-flex a lite fans-air aid intake-diablo tune
Mine is a Walbro GS 340 - 255lph (67gph I think). In-LINE or in-TANK pump? I've never seen an inline Walbro.
~ Forged engine of some type ~ Ball bearing turbo of an unconfirmed size ~ 4L8000 trans ~ Beefy fuel system ~
there are various walboro 255s out there. i run the F20000 i believe i the model its the higher pressure one which costs 130 vs the 100 dollar ones.
alot of ppl run the GSS340 that ^^^^^^^^ he mentioned
na i run the ones teh cobras run
2002 Lightning - GT headed 5.5Litre w/ Twin 7665s
2002 Silverado - 427Lsx w/ Twin gt4202s
2010 Silverado crewcab Z71 - 5.3litre w/ procharger
2000 Wrangler - 5.3litre with some stance
2014 Xsport- 3.5 Eco boost
412 Motorsports
it ain't that I'm too big to listen to the rumors, It's just that I'm too damn big to pay attention to 'em..That's the difference
anyway to keep the fuel gauge working?
Blessed be the Lord my strength which teacheth my hands to war, and my fingers to fight:
Psalms 144:1
Si vis pacem, para bellum
Its easy...just don't snip those wires.
Does the gauge on the dash only work every now and then?
2000 ECSB 6.0L
TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's
2000 ECSB 6.0L
TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's
Snip purple wires to sending unit and mark where each wire goes.
Pop out metal float arm CAREFULLY.
Take sending unit off fuel pump bucket.
Sniff fingers cause they smell like gas...and laugh to yourself.
Lay backside of sending unit down on hard, metal surface.
Find a punch or 1/2" rachet extension that is as wide as the metal swivel the metal float arm snaps into.
Hit center of metal swivel with short, sharp hits with hammer until swivel tightens up a little.
Pop metal float arm back on and check swivel to make sure it moves back and forth freely.
Smell fingers again--because you love the smell of unleaded.
Once the fingers of the swivel have solid contact with sending unit and it swivels freely (but tighter than before), you are ready for reassembly.
Carefully pop metal float arm back off.
Strip wires back slightly and solder together.
Snap sending unit back in and pop metal float arm back on.
Aaaaaaaaaaand done.
2000 ECSB 6.0L
TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's