Purge and activation on the same switch.

[Frenchy]

Ok I am in no way an electrical genius. At all. I hate it. Anyway, to keep a cleaner appearance I want my activation switch to control my purge and then when I hit the master arm switch for my kit the activation switch controls my main n2o and fuel noids. I know it's a relay trick, but other than that I'm lost.

[pl4yboy]

No no. Have one master switch for both, then a seperate button for the purge.

[jetmech]

If you want to use the "relay trick", it's a simple matter of a "single pole dual throw" relay (SPDT). They are very easy to use. It will allow you to purge OR spray but NEVER both at the same time. Is that what you were driving at?

[oleshifty]

I have my purge off just the momentary switch...you use it in such short bursts...and the solenoid is so small, really dont NEED a relay


Then I have an "arm" switch, which runs to the WOT switch, and my push button going to a relay, which feeds both my fuel/nos solenoid (general thought behind that, if any switch fails/wire breaks/etc, they both will stop, dont want nos to spray and fuel wires to have problems)


All of these get power from an 'ignition' source, so I can't accidentally leave it on when car is off. Still allows me to purge without arming the kit. (Nice for when random ricers are driving next to you and you dont have time to/dont want to arm it) I've got a few pics on my fb if you want to look at it.

[Frenchy]

Okay so basically this is what I came up with. Anyone see an issue?

[farmtruc]

That diagram/schematic isn't right.
The way it is now, the relays won't even click/engage.
The coil winding or device that gets energized is on pins 85/86, they do not have polarity btw.
The load and main power supplied to the load is switch on and off between pins 87/30.


Follow this.
Pins 85/86 can be small gauge wire (18g), and are usually tied into ignition or battery (this one shows batt).
Pins 87/30 are typically 14/12g, depending on load.