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Thread: All you nitrous guys...does this look right?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
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    All you nitrous guys...does this look right?

    Just want to double check my wiring schematic before I start running wires.

    White boxes are toggle switches, teal boxes are safety switches, P is purge, N is nitrous, F is fuel, FPS is fuel safety switch, WOT is wide open switch, and RPM is my activate/deactivate window switch.


    Feel free to post 'better' ways of doing it, I've seen switches on both power and ground side, I tried to split it up for troubleshooting purposes incase I ever have a problem.


    blown transmissions are about as useful as 97% of the guys on this forum

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Depending on components it may. Here is a how I hooked up a buddy's juice.
    This is a negative switched trigger.
    The little white letters between the window switch and relay say "negative trigger" and between the WOT and relay say "positive trigger"
    Last edited by Duct_tape123; 09-17-2010 at 12:16 PM.
    cjriojas:if you're weather man is a 5 gallon bucket, YOUUUUUUUUUUU might be a redneck
    danger_ranger83: I see now why it cost so much to get a harness made... FML
    2boostedSilverado: I like Casey's rear end, I want to chat with him about it

  3. #3
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    It looks right to me!

    Nitrous wiring is SUPER simple... Just do what makes sense and it'll work
    Last edited by sprayedenali; 09-17-2010 at 12:07 PM.
    01 Silverado

  4. #4
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    duct_tape...what looks like it 'may not work' ? Honestly, 3 relays seems like WAY OVERKILL for a 1 stage setup. I want one for heater, one for spray, POSSIBLY one for purge (tho my kit says it is not required), seems like too many parts to cause problems. I just want to keep it simple. Only thing I'm iffy on is whether the rpm/wot switches are better on power or ground side. I know the fuel pressure has to be ground (cuz fuel is running through it lol)
    blown transmissions are about as useful as 97% of the guys on this forum

  5. #5
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    I don't know what components you are using, so I don't know how they will work with each other. The reason I used 3 relays was because the WOT and window switch were old and the noids where big HD noids. They way you have it drawn the WOT switch turns on the window switch, then the window turns on the relay that also must be triggered by the FPS switch. This only happens when all conditions are met and the power is allowed to go on to the next component. I kept everything separate because he was having issues with only one of the safety switches(WOT/window) engaging. Turned out his window switch was bad and I was able to diagnose it quickly having the components separated.
    cjriojas:if you're weather man is a 5 gallon bucket, YOUUUUUUUUUUU might be a redneck
    danger_ranger83: I see now why it cost so much to get a harness made... FML
    2boostedSilverado: I like Casey's rear end, I want to chat with him about it

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    all you need is the one relay, well and one for the heater too...

    just keep it simple... and the window switch should say whether or not to put it on the power or ground side (if it even matters, idk which switch you have)

    and just so ya know, pretty much just as much power is flowing thru a ground wire as there is a power wire, so it doesnt really matter if the FPSS is in one side or the other

    dont over complicate this whole deal, and really, you dont need the FPSS... just keep an eye on your wideband or fuel pressure gauge (if you have one) and youll be fine. KEEP IT SIMPLE
    01 Silverado

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