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Thread: electric header cut-outs

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  1. #1
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    electric header cut-outs

    anyone that is running them or has had them what are some pros and cons of them im looking into getting them but wanna know what u guys think before i drop some bills

  2. #2
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    I have been wanting to do the same exact thing and i think this friday i am just going to bite the bullet and buy one. I think there are more pro's than cons. The only big no no i no of is don't use one on a turboed application because of the exhuast temps.

  3. #3
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    The only con I know of is that the majority of the electric ones break eventually. There are very few companies that make high quality ones with good warranties. I know a few people that have gotten away with running the cheap ones and having no issues, but know of many more that have had problems. My advice: Shop around and find a good reputable brand with good feedback.

    1969 Chevy RCLB C10 350/TH400 SOLD
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    2005 GMC CCLB DRW 6.6 Duramax 4x4 191,000 and counting
    2013 FORD CCSB F350 6.7 Powerstroke 4x4


  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by pl4yboy View Post
    The only con I know of is that the majority of the electric ones break eventually. There are very few companies that make high quality ones with good warranties. I know a few people that have gotten away with running the cheap ones and having no issues, but know of many more that have had problems. My advice: Shop around and find a good reputable brand with good feedback.
    Wow. I can't believe something like that came from you Justin. Well said.

    I run RaceReady cutouts because of the lifetime warranty. QTP, Summit's own brand, and a few others do not have the lifetime warranty and they all typically go South once the warranty period expires. The RaceReady ones are priced at a premium over the other ones because of the lifetime warranty, but worth the price IMHO.

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by txarkitekt View Post
    Wow. I can't believe something like that came from you Justin. Well said.

    I run RaceReady cutouts because of the lifetime warranty. QTP, Summit's own brand, and a few others do not have the lifetime warranty and they all typically go South once the warranty period expires. The RaceReady ones are priced at a premium over the other ones because of the lifetime warranty, but worth the price IMHO.
    I kno this is old, but do you have pics of your cutout setup? Where did you put the switch?
    LS6, 222/224, Yank ss3600, 4.10s, Thorleys, HP tuned

  6. #6
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    I do not have pics. I put them after the Longtubes where the pipes straighten out. Make sure to have the cutout y piece facing down, with the electric motor facing up towards the bottom of the truck--NOT the ground. The supplied wire was short, so make sure to lay out the wire BEFORE you have the cutout y welded on your exhaust. I ran the switch to the dash on the blank panel by the passenger airbag switch. I grounded the wires to a good point, and then ran the power wire to a fuse in the driver's side dash fuse panel that had a hot 12v source with the IGN ON. I think it was the blinker fuse. If you jump that fuse, make sure NOT to turn on your blinker while opening the cutout. Ask me how I know. All it does is blow the fuse...

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Devine, Texas
    Posts
    114
    Quote Originally Posted by txarkitekt View Post
    I do not have pics. I put them after the Longtubes where the pipes straighten out. Make sure to have the cutout y piece facing down, with the electric motor facing up towards the bottom of the truck--NOT the ground. The supplied wire was short, so make sure to lay out the wire BEFORE you have the cutout y welded on your exhaust. I ran the switch to the dash on the blank panel by the passenger airbag switch. I grounded the wires to a good point, and then ran the power wire to a fuse in the driver's side dash fuse panel that had a hot 12v source with the IGN ON. I think it was the blinker fuse. If you jump that fuse, make sure NOT to turn on your blinker while opening the cutout. Ask me how I know. All it does is blow the fuse...
    thanks, that sounds like a good place for the switch. Hopefully itll be on before christmas.
    LS6, 222/224, Yank ss3600, 4.10s, Thorleys, HP tuned

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