I've heard that there's a way to slightly lift your truck w/out having to buy anything. How would I do that?
I've heard that there's a way to slightly lift your truck w/out having to buy anything. How would I do that?
maybe your thinking of cranking with keys.
floor jack??
sprayedenali: i like catching, but not fishingOriginally Posted by DamnYankee
lol...I wish you would never paint your truck...I bet it bugs them that much more that a primered up truck just soggied his Wheaties. good job buddy
DBTBSS: bring Tyler... we need someone to make fun of
MidnightRider: your right im gay
DamnYankee: my nana failed
DamnYankee: confused...if it can't keep up to begin with, how can it keep up
mitch cobb racing: ya, allen played with it for a while, HUGE difference
LOL!!
More info.... What kinda truck?
2002 Silverado 2500HD LB7 CCSB LT
EFI Live by Rob at ATP, Edge CTS Insight DSP 5 control, S&B CAI, PPE boost valve, Pro Fab AIH, AirDog II 165, PPE WIF sensor delete plug, 5" stainless exhaust, Cognito braces & HD tie rods, H2's 315/70 R17 BFG's
2004 Tahoe LT
2006 Silverado Z71 LS
1971 Chevy C10
i've got an '02 silverado 1500, extended cab, Z71
Crank the Torsion bars up 1 1/2. You wont need shocks or keys and you still have 1/2 inch to crank and its a good stance. Get a wheel alignment afterwards as soon as you can though.
2012 F-250 XLT/FX4 RCLB 6.7 Powerstroke
H&S XRT Pro Race(550hp/1100tq)/ 4" flopro exhaust/H&S EGT kit/SPE Full diff unlock/S&B CAI/H&S motorsports upcharge pipe kit/ DPF,CAT,EGR,UREA Deleted/Icon 3.5" Lift-Vs 2.0 shocks/PMF DSS w' Bilstein 5100s/Icon Adj Track Bar-upgraded steel bearing/RIGID LEDs/Kenwood DNX570HD w/idatalink maestro/Hertz5x7s/Memphis 12" slim/500.1 JL slash amp/Recon f250 led emblems
Yes, the caster will be effed up by changing the key level.
Don't know about caster, but toe and camber will be off.
You might want to just have the alignment shop crank it up. Not much labor, and they can take it to the max of what can be adjusted with your OEM suspension.
FWIW the front will be more bouncy since the compression snubbers to control arm distance has been altered. Might want to get longer shocks too, though this has been debated to death.
Dude, do you read these posts, or just randomly respond?
The above quote is the first thing that you said to the OP. Again, by cranking the keys, toe and camber will be effed up by him doing so. NOT CASTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!
Is that clear enough for you now, or do you actually need some sort of picture or diagram?
And its f'n obvious he should have an alignment done afterwards. I NEVER SUGGESTED OTHERWISE!!!!
I would just get a measuring tape and measure the length of the fender to the ground on both sides before and after the torsion bar crank to make sure they are even. Dont forget though the drivers side will always sag because of the gas tank.
Get a roller jack and jack up the front crossmember in the front of the truck. Then put some 2 jackstands underneath the crossmember. Then find the right size socket (Not sure) and just startin cranking the bolt into the keys!
2012 F-250 XLT/FX4 RCLB 6.7 Powerstroke
H&S XRT Pro Race(550hp/1100tq)/ 4" flopro exhaust/H&S EGT kit/SPE Full diff unlock/S&B CAI/H&S motorsports upcharge pipe kit/ DPF,CAT,EGR,UREA Deleted/Icon 3.5" Lift-Vs 2.0 shocks/PMF DSS w' Bilstein 5100s/Icon Adj Track Bar-upgraded steel bearing/RIGID LEDs/Kenwood DNX570HD w/idatalink maestro/Hertz5x7s/Memphis 12" slim/500.1 JL slash amp/Recon f250 led emblems
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