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Thread: Finishing up my swap and need some help.

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Spiro, Oklahoma
    Posts
    316

    Finishing up my swap and need some help.

    My truck is almost ready for its first trip out of the driveway but I still need to work out alot of small problems and one really big one. First off I realized today that the truck still rolls forward in park! Not a surprise I wanted to get. The other two problems that have me stumped are the fuel gauge staying way past full after I put in the new pump and I have no tachometer well I do it just doesn't move, is that something that should have been changed in the tune?
    Last edited by low91; 01-05-2009 at 02:24 AM.
    1991 Silverado-L33 5.3L, 212/218 .557 .562 115+4, ASP under drive pulley,180* thermostat, 90mm truck intake w/ LS3 throttle body. Shoenfeld conversion headers and duel Flowmaster exhaust. Performabuilt LVL 1 transmission and 23-2500 stall converter.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    12,078
    Does the trans have all the other gears? Might be an adjustment but sounds like something is loose or broken.

    Fuel gauge reading full means the signal wire is open, the float is open, or possibly something about the swap I don't know.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Spiro, Oklahoma
    Posts
    316
    All I know for sure is that it has first and reverse. The new pedal and tac module will be in today so I haven't had a way of giving it any fuel yet.
    1991 Silverado-L33 5.3L, 212/218 .557 .562 115+4, ASP under drive pulley,180* thermostat, 90mm truck intake w/ LS3 throttle body. Shoenfeld conversion headers and duel Flowmaster exhaust. Performabuilt LVL 1 transmission and 23-2500 stall converter.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    473
    Your fuel level gauge sending wire might be grounded, and it shouldn't be.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Spiro, Oklahoma
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    316
    Quote Originally Posted by LS1GMCTruck View Post
    Your fuel level gauge sending wire might be grounded, and it shouldn't be.

    Nope the purple wire goes to the gauge cluster and the black/white wire is grounded on the firewall and seems to be a good ground but i'll move it around tomorrow and see what happens.

    My biggest concern now is the transmission. I've seen manual trans. trucks roll off while parked but never one with an automatic.

    Can the tachometer signal be changed in the tune or will I need a converter? if a converter is needed is this what I need?
    Auto Meter 9117 - Auto Meter Distributorless Ignition Tachometer Adapters - summitracing.com
    Last edited by low91; 01-06-2009 at 01:11 AM.
    1991 Silverado-L33 5.3L, 212/218 .557 .562 115+4, ASP under drive pulley,180* thermostat, 90mm truck intake w/ LS3 throttle body. Shoenfeld conversion headers and duel Flowmaster exhaust. Performabuilt LVL 1 transmission and 23-2500 stall converter.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    12,078
    Grounded would show E.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Spiro, Oklahoma
    Posts
    316
    Ok so I checked it out today and damn do I ever feel stupid.The linkage couldn't move all the way forward because it was hitting the header flange. I don't know how I could have missed that, but it shouldn't be a hard fix I just gotta pull the header find a new flange to weld on and cut the collector down a bit.



    So does anyone know how to make the tachometer work on one of these swaps or what?
    1991 Silverado-L33 5.3L, 212/218 .557 .562 115+4, ASP under drive pulley,180* thermostat, 90mm truck intake w/ LS3 throttle body. Shoenfeld conversion headers and duel Flowmaster exhaust. Performabuilt LVL 1 transmission and 23-2500 stall converter.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Needville,TX
    Posts
    433
    Quote Originally Posted by low91 View Post
    Ok so I checked it out today and damn do I ever feel stupid.The linkage couldn't move all the way forward because it was hitting the header flange. I don't know how I could have missed that, but it shouldn't be a hard fix I just gotta pull the header find a new flange to weld on and cut the collector down a bit.



    So does anyone know how to make the tachometer work on one of these swaps or what?

    Where did you get those flanges for the headers????
    89' GMC RCSB 6.0L LQ4, T56, 4.56 Gears

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Spiro, Oklahoma
    Posts
    316
    I got them from a local peformance/exhaust shop. Its a pretty standard item any good exhaust shop should have a few laying around. A 3" flange slips over the collector and welds in place then the pipe side is just flared to match up. If you ask me these headers should come with flanges, there the first set of headers I've had that didn't. If you can't get them localy i think summitracing has the flared side w/flanges


    Summit SUM-G4754 - Summit® Exhaust Reducer Kits - summitracing.com

    Thes should work nice to clear the trans crossmember

    Hedman Hedders 18804 - Hedman Universal Header X-Tensions - summitracing.com
    1991 Silverado-L33 5.3L, 212/218 .557 .562 115+4, ASP under drive pulley,180* thermostat, 90mm truck intake w/ LS3 throttle body. Shoenfeld conversion headers and duel Flowmaster exhaust. Performabuilt LVL 1 transmission and 23-2500 stall converter.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    473
    After you fix your header interference problem...You should somehow get a heat barrier between the exhaust & the transmission/linkage, etc. Its way too close in my opinion.

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