Another Newb from TX.....

[Scoti]

I just found this site while looking for LS engine build-ups on the ls1tech site. I was reading about some of the combo's & although they sounded good, none really were geared toward a muliti-use, heavier truck.

About me: I've just acquired an 01' 6.0/4l80e combo for my 68 short-fleet pick-up. The truck is on bags w/a Porterbuilt 'Dropmember' (which is the equivalent of a 3" frame 'Z') w/modified ART tubular front a-arms, MII R&P steering, C6 13.4" discs w/2-pot 40mm PBR's, 20" Coy C5's, modifed OE truck-arm rear suspension, raised bedfloor & mini-tubs.

Building an LS based combo is all new to me so I'm on a learning curve. I had a freshened 350/700r4 set-up going into it but was looking for a 5.3/4l60e for another one of my rides when I found the 6.0 combo. I have only scratched the surface w/my site related searches (I'm looking for ideas or suggestions on building power w/o sacrificing the usability of the truck).

Blah, blah, blah..... Scot.

[txarkitekt]

Hey man--welcome to LS1truck! wait--you've got a 68 SWB???? Sweet-ass man! I freaking love those--and on top of it, it already has all of those mods to the frame and suspension??? Damn dude, you've done it right. The 6.0L/4L80e combo is a good starting point. What questions you wanting to know answers to??

[ff_jeff]

Welcome... get some pics up ASAP!!!!

[Scoti]

Hey man--welcome to LS1truck! wait--you've got a 68 SWB???? Sweet-ass man! I freaking love those--and on top of it, it already has all of those mods to the frame and suspension??? Damn dude, you've done it right. The 6.0L/4L80e combo is a good starting point. What questions you wanting to know answers to??

Well . . .... Best way to get more power 'as-is'; mild combo's (cam etc...) that still allow you to tow because I still use this truck to pull my 18ft car hauler from time to time.

As for pics, there's not much of a truck right now cause it's all in pieces. The front clip & rear bedsides are all body-worked & ready for final blocking but they're sitting in a corner of the garage until I had the suspension stuff all completed. I work in the driveway w/ma' nature & don't want the primer absorbing a bunch of moisture (I have another short-fleet apart in the garage).

Well actually I have 3 swb's total: my 67 (the garage mole); my 68 (it was just a beater but has taken on a 'new/improved' direction); & my daily grinder a 74 short-fleet..... I can assure you I don't have a problem .

[Scoti]

One @ rest, the other @ work.....

[Scoti]

The 'old-school' look is what's current but this is what I had on there a month ago....

[txarkitekt]

Nice set of trucks you got there Scot.

Well, as for mods to the 6.0L, you can do the simple things that will yield decent power: CAI, larger (80mm) or ported and polished stock TB, e-fans, LT headers, pulleys, and a custom tune. As for a cam (keeping mind you want to tow with it), you could get away with a 218/220 .531/.551 112 LSA. But you would also need valve springs and pushrods if you go with a cam with that high of lift over stock.

[Scoti]

Nice set of trucks you got there Scot.

Well, as for mods to the 6.0L, you can do the simple things that will yield decent power: CAI, larger (80mm) or ported and polished stock TB, e-fans, LT headers, pulleys, and a custom tune. As for a cam (keeping mind you want to tow with it), you could get away with a 218/220 .531/.551 112 LSA. But you would also need valve springs and pushrods if you go with a cam with that high of lift over stock.

OK....
I'll have to create some sort of CAI since I just don't care for the late model offerings (no offense to those that have them), but this should be easy enough.

Is there a reputable source for tweaked TB's?

My 6.0 purchase included the entire cooling system (radiator, e-fans, relays). Is this good enough or are improvements warranted? The truck had/has a 4-row brass w/a not yet used FoMoCo Mark VIII e-fan set-up but from WIR, our 02 CE T/A has the inlet/outlets reversed & I didn't know what to expect on the truck LS motor.

I was prob going to do custom headers by my buddies @ Stoked Out Specialties or try Thorleys new 67-72 LS retro-fit headers (I'm not sure if they'll work w/my aftermarket front crossmember & motor-mounts).

UD pulleys.... any particular manufacturer?

A knowledgeable aquaintance suggested a cam in the 220-224 range @ 114 since the 6.0 is bigger. I'm open to informed logic & I would definitely match the valvetrain per the mfr's recommendations.

And........ I'm in the Dallas/Garland area. Who's the man for the 'tune' in my neck of the woods?

I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row before getting too far into the install since it's easier to work on & it's always better to get parts on their way ASAP since delays are common. The rest of the truck of course is the matching 4l80e & it has a 12-bolt w/3.73's & a 29" rear tire.

Thanks for the welcome & the info!

[txarkitekt]

Create a CAI if you want, but there are nice units out there. I understand some retro-fitting will be required since the CAI kits are maufactured for specific trucks--not a 6.0L dropped in a 68.


As for a lrager TB, I have only had good luck with my BBK 80mm. As for ported and polished units, there are a few people in the Garland area I can get you in contact with. I will send you a PM once I get done typing this...

As for the Mark VIII e-fans, I heard they are decent and flow ~5000 cfm @33 amps. That is enough cooling power for your motor. And the Mark VIII fans need to be wired to PULL the air through the radiator. With the PCM that came with the motor, you can make a harness made or make it yourself to PIN into the PCM--so you don't need switches or radiator probes to tell the fans when to come on. It will all be controlled through the PCM.

Haven't heard of those headers, but I am sure they'll work fine.

Yes, a cam in the 220-224 duration range would be fine for a 6.0L, but you said you wanted to keep low end and mid range power for towing. If you wanted to go slightly bigger than what I said, you could do a 220/220 .551/.551 114 LSA. For cam knowledge, the 220/220 number is the duration @ .50. That tells you how wide the cam is going to open the valve. The .551/.551 number is the lift. The lift tells you how long the valve is going to stay open, and the LSA is the lobe separation angle. That gives you the idle characteristics. By going with a slightly higher duration than a typically matched lift, you can increase your torque output. You could even get away with a 222/224 .551/.563 112LSA. That would be a pretty sweet N/A 6.0L cam. But remember, every time you increase your lift and duration numbers, the higher in the powerband is where you are going to make your power.

Check your PMs.

[69chvelle]

Welcome! Sweet Rides you have there!