94 1500 Progress

[keniff]

I have a 94 ext cab with the 4.3L auto.
I have an LQ4 6.0 that I'll be putting in because the 4.3 is slow and I don't want to destroy my white truck.

6.0 List is:
04 6.0 with 30k, almost complete.
VIG3200 stall
44LB injectors
243 heads that are getting milled .020 with stock head gaskets to achieve my 10:5:1 compression.
cam is unknown because I don't know what I want yet.
Patriot Gold Dual Springs soon to come
Clean and Paint the block and such.
Replace all the gaskets that will be hard to get to when the motor is installed.
Have the Carrier Bearing replaced, and the Drive Shaft balanced so I can race it and possibly go over 140mph
I'm saving to get a FLT level 5 tranny.

I'm purchasing the adapter plates, but I don't know which one to get....the one that puts it in the Stock location or the one that Pushes it Forward 1" or the one that sets it Back 1".

The most part that I am struggling with is the wiring harness. I have the Haynes Repair Manuals on both trucks (88-98) (99-05)
For the guys who did your own wiring did you use the Wiring Diagrams in the back of the book? I don't have the time to understand them just yet, but I don't want to spend 600-800 on a wiring harness. Through all of the pictures I've seen I have yet to understand how to hook the wires up and such.



In the next few weeks I'll be swapping my truck to 6 lug.






but I'll be going with the OEM Chevy rims instead.

Thanks for all of yalls input.

[keniff]

a LQ4 with 243 heads alone should put you right around 10.4. since 243 heads on a LQ9 puts it at 11.1

milling the heads should net you around 10.8. your 44s are little to large for your setup. a good set of 36s are plenty for a 6litre. 44s are good for 402/408s

gaskets on these motors arent like yesterdays. they are actually metal and dont go bad.

so i pissed money away on the injectors, the oil pump and such.
will the injectors be way too much for the motor even when tuned?

i thought the gaskets on the rear seal and such aren't like the intake gaskets....

[keniff]

the rear seal and front seal are rubber and oens that do go bad yes. but rest are reusable and not prone to going bad

give ya an idea on injector. my 11.1 408 with a 244/248 cam at 7k only seen 76% duty cycle with 48# injectrs. they were svo 42s

my 6.0 at 11.1 with a 232/234 cam only seen 73% duty cycle at 6800, same motor with a 242/248 cam only seen 81% duty cycle in a fbody with svo 30s with are 36# injectors

some will say youll use themn down the road im telling you from my experience what i encounterd. you want ot be between 70 and 85% duty cycle for ideal

our intake gaskets dont go bad, they are rubber O rings...well they arent O but like a rectangle

well, i picked the injectors up for cheaper than brand new and they dont have a lot of miles on them so i didn't want to pass them up.

i'll never go FI unless i win the lottery so looks like ill be just an NA6.0 in an OBS.

the wiring is the hardest thing that i've come across and it seems like no one has pictures or details on exactly what to hook up where and such. i'll wait to see if i can rework my harness or not then if i cant ill spend the money on one.

this swap should take me some time so it'll be a step by step move.

BUT any input and help will be great.

[keniff]

actually harness is easy to work with. remove all that is unnecessary and youll have left only a few wires that need power. say about 5 hours given you take time and etc. you could have more time but 5 hours would be a safe bet

i havent did a swap in that truck but have done the swap for other year rides. a standalone harness is a standalone harness. now to mate some of the wires to your stock wiring would take longer

thought all you would need is a few wires and such.

my brother in laws brother in law (if that makes any sense) bracket races so he's going to help me with the install and wiring and such.

[keniff]

yeah basically lmao.


everything is taking time.

i'll get most of the parts ordered and such then i'll go from there.
i'm using the truck as my work truck right now so its in and out of mud all day everyday.

i'm taking the a/c out and most of the stuff from the engine bay, painting it and cleaning things up. it'll be a D.D. race truck when it's done but as of right now it's just gonna be a Dust Collector.

[keniff]

who is able to build a custom wiring harness for just what i need nothing else, nothing more. i dont need the PCMs i'll be getting a custom tune for it so the PCM will be added to the price.

i'm not looking to spend 700 on just a harness.

Thanks.

[modular93fox]

ah, your the 2,000,000 person to ask that same ?... tell him what hes won johnny...
jack crap... any of the usuals can build the harness, and again if you searched, you would have found another place LT1 Swap ... he tells you how to make it, he even said if you cant understand the 1,2,3 instructions mail a stock harness and he will mod it for 300 bucks or so?? look on his website and it will tell you.
clint

[keniff]

ah, your the 2,000,000 person to ask that same ?... tell him what hes won johnny...
jack crap... any of the usuals can build the harness, and again if you searched, you would have found another place LT1 Swap ... he tells you how to make it, he even said if you cant understand the 1,2,3 instructions mail a stock harness and he will mod it for 300 bucks or so?? look on his website and it will tell you.
clint

i've emailed him 2 different times, and still no reply.

i'll just try it myself....f it, if i mess up oh well.

[modular93fox]

dude, chances of you messing up on the harness are slim to none. why i say that is becuase those instructions coupled with painless wiring harness instructions (helps you understand the brake switch and tcc wiring - they give you a picture of what to look for) it should take little effort. the only hard part is making all the power wires (hot in run/start or run) which ever it was that has like 6-9 wires into one wire. well thats what i chose to do. i wanted the cleanist look i can get. i know you can do it differently like running 2/3 wires to the relay, but i didnt wat a wad of wiring...
once you lay the harness on the motor, like i said before, start picking it apart (once you removed the convluted tubing and tape). start removing connectors that you dont need, and just remove it completely by depinning it from the pcm. its really that easy. 2nd hardest part is deciding how/where you want to put your fuse box. you can go to autozone and get an univeral fuse box with 5 fuses, all can be inter connected or all seperate and it costs 5 bucks or so! you need a fuel pump relay, ground signal comes from pcm, and a relay for the injectors, maf... all the stuff thats on run or start/run.
this is only the 2nd factory harness ive madeinto a standalone. my other is my 93 ford mustang gt -> 2003 motor and trans w/factory motor harness and 03 interior cluster
clint

[keniff]

dude, chances of you messing up on the harness are slim to none. why i say that is becuase those instructions coupled with painless wiring harness instructions (helps you understand the brake switch and tcc wiring - they give you a picture of what to look for) it should take little effort. the only hard part is making all the power wires (hot in run/start or run) which ever it was that has like 6-9 wires into one wire. well thats what i chose to do. i wanted the cleanist look i can get. i know you can do it differently like running 2/3 wires to the relay, but i didnt wat a wad of wiring...
once you lay the harness on the motor, like i said before, start picking it apart (once you removed the convluted tubing and tape). start removing connectors that you dont need, and just remove it completely by depinning it from the pcm. its really that easy. 2nd hardest part is deciding how/where you want to put your fuse box. you can go to autozone and get an univeral fuse box with 5 fuses, all can be inter connected or all seperate and it costs 5 bucks or so! you need a fuel pump relay, ground signal comes from pcm, and a relay for the injectors, maf... all the stuff thats on run or start/run.
this is only the 2nd factory harness ive madeinto a standalone. my other is my 93 ford mustang gt -> 2003 motor and trans w/factory motor harness and 03 interior cluster
clint

I work 70-80 hours a week, so I'm always pressed for time. That's why I wont mind spending the money on getting a custom wiring harness. So i guess I'll just take a vacation about a week or two before I'm ready to pull the motors and get everything ready.

Thanks