I have 92 Chevy w/5.7. I was replacing the battery and alternator and while they were out I washed the engine compartment. The engine fired right up and let it run for 15 minutes and cut it off. I realized I had left a bolt out of the rear of the alt. and it was down behind the dist. and next to firewall. I took a magnet to get it. I tried to start the truck the next morning and the motor doesn't even try to turn over. The dash gauges work.
Wierd timing for a dead/underpowered battery? What was the bolt off the alternator for?
07 Z71 4x4, 6.0L, 3.73s, Turbonetics T76 @ 10 psi, 75 shot, Snow meth kit, PLX DM-100 wideband gauge, Nelson tune, Comp 212/216 .557/.561 114 lsa, 60# injectors, Yank 3000, 4L80E , Magnaflow - dumped, e-cutout
Line-X, Pace Edwards Full Metal Jackrabbit bedcover
the voltage regulator could have stuck on and killed the battery. what is the voltage when you switch it on or by using a voltmeter on the battery? could be a bad cable connection also so try that as well.
'00 Silverado, '98 Trans Am, and a couple other toys.
The battery and alt. were brand new. The truck battery was 8 yrs old and getting slow to crank and the bearing in alt. was noisy. The battery voltage is over 12 volts. I thought the new battery was bad and put another good battery on it and same results. I left one of the alt bolts out when I changed alt and left it on the breather when I washed engine. I removed the steering column plug to see if it was getting voltage(it was)and tried going across to wire that goes to starter and nothing. The truck is a 5sp and the starter is a pain in butt to remove with the hyd clutch on that side of tranny. I have never seen a starter/solenoid go bad without some warning signs but there is always a first time. If the dist or coil are bad the engine should at least crank.
Last edited by Old Nash; 07-01-2009 at 03:24 PM.
I'm fairly certain you should be seeing closer to 13.4 v or so on a good battery. One with less will probably power accessories but won't start the truck. I had the same issue a few months back...I would try to find the source of the drain...
07 Z71 4x4, 6.0L, 3.73s, Turbonetics T76 @ 10 psi, 75 shot, Snow meth kit, PLX DM-100 wideband gauge, Nelson tune, Comp 212/216 .557/.561 114 lsa, 60# injectors, Yank 3000, 4L80E , Magnaflow - dumped, e-cutout
Line-X, Pace Edwards Full Metal Jackrabbit bedcover
Loose cable connection.
2001 ECSB 4x4, 5.3, Radix, 3.0 pulley, VHP Trucker cam, 216/224 .551/.551 115 lsa, 1.8 Crane roller rockers, 4L65E, Yank SC3000, 3.73, Cal-Tracs, HPTuners.
Or corroded.Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
"ALisSa1 Silverado"1990 Chevrolet RCSB● 2002 Chevrolet Camaro LS1/4L60EScrimpin Ain't Easy( . Y . )
The new battery is 12.66 volts and the other 12.70 volts. I had cleaned all the connections and sprayed corrision remover before reconnecting everything. I ohmed out the cables and no problem there. The cables were checked many times for tightness. The truck ran fine before I changed the battery and alternator and never had a problem starting or charging before. It puzzle me why it started the first time with the new battery and then won't start now.
Last edited by Old Nash; 07-01-2009 at 04:22 PM.
Clutch switch? Unplug and hot wire it. You could retry jumping the small purple wire to the large red battery cable at the solenoid BUT BE CAREFUL ON A MANUAL TRANS TRUCK! Don't run over yourself. If that produces to click or engagement the starter is bad.
I hot wired the clutch switch and same problem.
I hooked up my remote starter switch and no sound of solenoid trying to kick starter.
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