03 LQ4 Build parts list, check my work.

[shakey]

Well, i've been trolling and planning for a while on this site and its come down to nitty gritty time. Heres my situation. I'm swapping a '03 LQ4 into my '94 GMC 1500. I bought this motor on the cheap and was told it had that he thought was a "lifter tick." (see where i'm going with this?) I've pulled the motor apart and found the "lifter tick."



I know what caused this. The truck was rolled and was on its lid for a while. The intake was full of oil when we pulled the motor out and i think when they went to start it the bulk of the oil found its way into the #2 cylinder and snap. The engine is other wise in amazing shape, factory cross hatch, crank looks great. I think if i wanted to i could throw a good piston set in that hole and run it....but thats not our style is it.

I'm on a very tight budget here ( i know what tight budget and reliable performance don't go together) and i've started looking at parts. I wan't to keep the stock crank and bore because its really not in my budget to get crazy. So hears my plan/parts list.

ARP Head studs
ARP Main studs
Scat H-Beam Rods (P# 66100945) 6.100", 0.945 Pin
Mahle Piston/Ring set (P# LS1340000F04) 4" Bore, 3.62" Stroke, Flat Top
Cometic Head Gaskets (P# C5751-051) 4.060" Bore, .051 Compressed

Now if my math is right this should leave me with a little over a 10:1 CR. and with a thicker (i used .091) HG would be about a 9.4:1 CR, using stock alum 317 heads. My plans for this motor are to run it NA for a good while then build a custom twin turbo set up for it. i'm looking for around 650-750HP once turbo'd.

So heres what i need, look over the parts i've chosen, if you like it say so, if you think i need to change something up give me an alternative (part numbers please). If i can save money by spending some i will. I'm also looking for advise on bearings and a cam (been planning on using a Z06 cam). The more information i get the better because i don't like doing things twice. oh, and yes, i have found a 4L80E to put behind it.

[txarkitekt]

BWAH-hahaha! Lifter tick my ass.

Well, what you have there looks fine. While you are at it, make sure to soak and clean the intake WELL. Not only clean the intake, but clean the entire motor! You might go through about 10 cans of brake clean, but it will ber worth it. Take a careful look at the intake gaskets--how many miles on the motor?
Also, have the 317 heads cleaned up with a 3-angle valve job done. Those 317s flow pretty damn well...even with just a simple PnP. Also have them decked. Having a completely true mating surface to the block with those thicker HG should keep the CR low enough for FI later.
If the crank is fine, then the Main studs and new rods would be fine. And you said the crosshatch is still present on the cylinder walls of #2? (hahaha...#2)

[shakey]

The all 8 cylinders, expecially #2, are in great shape, cross hatch and all. I'm thinking i'll just have the block hot tanked to make sure everything out of it. A chuck of the #2 cylinder was broken off and i want to make sure everything is clear. I think for the moment i'm going to leave the heads alone provided the #2 valves are ok, i'm worried about one.

is the .051" hg considered thick?

[txarkitekt]

If there is any question on the heads, don't hesitate to have them cleaned up. 317s with a little clean up job and a 3-angle valve job actually flow really damn well...
Even though the cross hatch is still good on #2 (I still laugh to myself when I type that), I would do a compression check on cylinder 2. Also--once the motor is completely torn down--check out the walls with your eyes and your fingers. Run your fingers around the walls and make sure there are no rough spots.

Yeah, a .051 head gasket is thicker than stock. Is that the Felpro gasket? I think a stock head gasket is about .040...

[shakey]

Yeah, a .051 head gasket is thicker than stock. Is that the Felpro gasket? I think a stock head gasket is about .040...

The motors all apart and visually in very good shape. But i am going to go ahead and build it up over the summer. Do you think it wold be better with my FI plans to go with a mild dish piston and a stock thickness HG or a little thinner to bump the CR until i get the turbo's on?

[SCIV]

I could be wrong, but I thought stock gasket was .051?

If you are going forged, I would keep the CR in the 9.5 - 10.0 range.

[txarkitekt]

If you are going FI on an LQ4, then use the same mild dish piston. As always with FI--the lower the CR, the better... You can use the stock HG thickness, or get a thicker one to slightly lower the CR.

Not sure SC...???