ok most cars say roughly the power they give but how do u measure the real rwhp how much do u usually loose to get it to the wheels
ok most cars say roughly the power they give but how do u measure the real rwhp how much do u usually loose to get it to the wheels
10-20% loss through the drivetrain is "normal" depending on a lot of factors like transmission type, wheel size, gear ratio, etc. The way to find out for sure is run it on a chassis dyno.
15-20% loss is what I usually use.
15 for a 5speed
20 for an Automatic
Will get you close.
2002 Tahoe 4.8 - soon to be turbo'd - SOLD
1989 Mustang - LX Vert - 351W-TT - 2inches of dust covering it
2012 Raptor - 497rwhp at 10psi
If you aint breaking - you aint going fast enough
well is gettin new gears a better stronger lighter driveshaft and the 4l80 transs would we still loose as much
A 4L80 will eat more power than a 60 unless it's built with lightweight aftermarket internals and a small diameter race converter. In the end you wouldn't notice the difference without using a chassis dyno. A F*** 9" axle eats more power than most other designs because of the lower pinion to ring gear relationship. An auto eats more than a manual. Big tires and heavy wheels eat a lot. etc. etc. etc.
seems like the list is endless so whats the best kind of combination to get all the power to the wheels
Transverse mounted engine, with straight shaft to the axle, no transmission. Plastic or paper wheels, no tires.
2006 GTO M6 Brazen Orange
2006 Silverado CCSB Duramax
haha we might as well go back to the flinstones n run our cars off feet power
The lowest drag would be through a 2wd manual trans truck with small diameter light weight wheels and tires. There are tradeoffs though. You want a trans that is strong, that adds weight and rotating mass. You want an auto to help run faster, that adds drag. IF you're like me, you want 4wd to help with traction off the line, that adds more drag. You want to run wide heavy tires in the back, that adds rotating mass. Gear ratios, converters, all change the efficiency. There's no right answer to your question, you just have to pick a direction and head that way and optimize to the best of your ability with the choices you have made.
Last edited by thunder550; 11-03-2008 at 05:41 PM.
2006 GTO M6 Brazen Orange
2006 Silverado CCSB Duramax
Simply put if you want to get better fuel econ, then go with the least amount of drag and rotating mass. And you will need to drive the most efficiently.
If you are looking to build bigger power "and make it reliable" then you will need to strengthen the drive train and chassis components, once you do that, you will create more drag and resistance. But with adding more power then you will be able to get that power to the ground reliably.
I am pretty sure that you won't be going so far "south" as to loose any more than 20% from at the crank, to the wheels.
Hell I don't even know what kind of power is lost in the more high power drag funny cars and other top fuel drags. I would be interested in finding that out!
Good luck and have fun with your vehicle!
1998 Silverado Z-71 Ext Cab. 5.7L Descreened MAF, K&N direct replacment, 32x11.5 R15 AT's,Posi rear end, True duel w/Magnaflows, Sub woofer setup, Remote starter.
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