+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Head job and cam

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    129

    Head job and cam

    Ive been pricing cams and such for my 5.3... heres why... there is an echaust manifold bolt broke off and i need to get it out and it seemed like a good excuse to pull the heads and do a little work. How much would i have to mill the heads to raise compression from 9.6/1 to 10.5-11/1? The cam imlookin at is a 212/218 .522/.529 lsa 114...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Ponca City
    Posts
    1,606
    I looked thinking was a diff subject. Ha
    Slowest in Oklahoma...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Crowder, OK
    Posts
    8,005
    Dude me too... I could really use a head job.

    1969 Chevy RCLB C10 350/TH400 SOLD
    2007 Chevy RCSB 4.8 4x4 LS SOLD
    2008 Chevy RCSB 5.3 4x4 LT SOLD
    2010 Chevy CCSB 6.2 4x4 LT SOLD
    2005 GMC CCLB DRW 6.6 Duramax 4x4 191,000 and counting
    2013 FORD CCSB F350 6.7 Powerstroke 4x4


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Mcalester,okla.
    Posts
    565
    Dammit suckered again wrong head job.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Bellevue, Nebraska
    Posts
    1,304
    Me too guys! But to the OP, google compression ratio calculator. .07 milling equals approx 1cc. For example: 66.67cc 241 head milled .30 gives you 62.39cc chamber. 66.67-(.30/.07). Compression calculation is going to need more of your cam info.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    129
    Quote Originally Posted by AFSP1211 View Post
    Me too guys! But to the OP, google compression ratio calculator. .07 milling equals approx 1cc. For example: 66.67cc 241 head milled .30 gives you 62.39cc chamber. 66.67-(.30/.07). Compression calculation is going to need more of your cam info.
    To all of you guys... that was the idea so it would get your attention! lol seriously though i will look that up and also is it recommended to do a full port job or just a valve seat job cuz the machinist i talked to said for $260 bucks he can do a valve seat job and that thats where most power gains would come from. However he said that he couldnt quote me really on the intake and exhaust porting but it would cost me $60 an hr... which will put me in the $700-900 range. Which is the best bang for my buck? Also is that cam a good choice for dd and stock stall with 3.73 gears?
    Last edited by Clayman; 08-21-2012 at 11:07 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Arizona/Utah
    Posts
    3,939
    Quote Originally Posted by Clayman View Post
    To all of you guys... that was the idea so it would get your attention! lol seriously though i will look that up and also is it recommended to do a full port job or just a valve seat job cuz the machinist i talked to said for $260 bucks he can do a valve seat job and that thats where most power gains would come from. However he said that he couldnt quote me really on the intake and exhaust porting but it would cost me $60 an hr... which will put me in the $700-900 range. Which is the best bang for my buck? Also is that cam a good choice for dd and stock stall with 3.73 gears?
    A good set of heads on a 5.3 can make an extra 15-40hp depending on the setup. However, 7-900 seems high to me. I would expect 450-650 for a local machinist. Even name brand heads I wouldn't expect much more than $1200 and that's mostly paying for the name.
    ECSB 2kSierra 2wd 4.8L-K&N-HPtuners-Calspeed LT's-Magnaflow-Tahoe20's-HankookRH06

    waiting to go in... 3.90s, 214/220cam

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Bellevue, Nebraska
    Posts
    1,304
    I'd save some cash and maybe just lap your valves by hand. Took me about two hours to do mine and it would save you $260. Spend the saved money for the P&P. Also, find a shop that will give you an exact quote for the job. Cam seems like an "okay" choice to me. Personally I'd go bigger but if you're keeping the stock stall, that's the biggest I'd go. Ever looked into getting an trailblazer stall. Not sure what the stall speed is in them but I know it's higher than our trucks. Are you going to change springs and pushrods with the cam? Also, don't be afraid of used parts. I got a set of used 241's with dual .650 springs for $200 shipped. Check around on ls1tech.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    129
    Quote Originally Posted by AFSP1211 View Post
    I'd save some cash and maybe just lap your valves by hand. Took me about two hours to do mine and it would save you $260. Spend the saved money for the P&P. Also, find a shop that will give you an exact quote for the job. Cam seems like an "okay" choice to me. Personally I'd go bigger but if you're keeping the stock stall, that's the biggest I'd go. Ever looked into getting an trailblazer stall. Not sure what the stall speed is in them but I know it's higher than our trucks. Are you going to change springs and pushrods with the cam? Also, don't be afraid of used parts. I got a set of used 241's with dual .650 springs for $200 shipped. Check around on ls1tech.
    Im plannin on some ls6 springs at the very least.. but ill do a stall when the 60 bites it and i buy an 80. Which may be the better plan to just wait and do it all at once.. but the exhaust tick is kinda gettin old!

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts