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Thread: Best option for Swapping 2k Tahoe 4.8 to 6.0

  1. #1
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    Best option for Swapping 2k Tahoe 4.8 to 6.0

    2000 Tahoe with the 4.8L, has 290k miles on it. Want to freshen things up and bit and increase power in the process.

    What all would have to be changed for a new 6.0L swap? I see there is a LQ4 and LQ9, which from what I gather is a compression difference and about 40hp? Is there a substantial mpg difference?

    What mpg to expect with 6.0L?

    Where does everyone purchase 6.0L crate engines? Is it better to find used low mileage? Does the 6.0L for this swap need to be of a certain year range?

    What's all this "drive by cable", and "drive by wire" stuff?

    What all wiring changes would I need? I'm thinking of swapping transmission at the same time, is there a certain trans I should upgrade to?

    I have been researching the swap and it doesn't look too bad, but I don't want to end up rewiring this whole truck!

    All help greatly appreciated!

  2. #2
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    There isn't any MPG difference in the two that you would notice. The MPG might slightly go down from the 4.8, but the power difference would outweigh any questions about fuel mileage.

    Try car-part.com for full engines. Any engine under 80k I feel is a good motor to buy. The drive by cable is what you are looking for. That is basically where the throttle body is controlled by a cable. Those came in the 99-02 engines that you are looking for, and the drive by wire is what the newer engines came with. You want the cable for yours as well as the fuel rail with the return style intake. Wiring should be exactly the same. Upgrade to the 01-02 4L80E transmission. It came directly mated to the LQ4 motor. That will hold lots of power.
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  3. #3
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    Most everything swaps right over. Might have to swap intake and injectors, possibly throttle body depending on what you have now and what year 6.0 you get.

    Compression difference is about 0.6:1 and makes the 20 HP difference (325 vs. 345). The iron head 99-00 LQ4 has a smaller cam and 300 HP (I think).

    Mine's AWD and has a lot of heavy options and gets 12-15 combined MPG.

    Get a used low mileage engine. Even higher mileage is OK if the seller has a warranty of some sort.

    Drive by cable is the throttle style with a cable between the throttle body and accelerator pedal. Drive by wire has an electric motor on the throttle shaft that is controlled by a module on the firewall that receives instructions from the PCM.

    No wiring changes as long as you stay in teh same family and all components used are stock. For higher power applications people use bigger injectors that require different plugs but the stock ones can be reused in milder applications. You can add electric fans that require more wiring. See Nelson Performance for add on fan harnesses.

    The trans is all about options. If you stay mild you can go with a beefed up version of the trans you have now or get yours built up. As far as swaps, there are lots of options. You could go with a 4L65 or 4L70 which is basically a slightly stronger version of what you have. Some of the more powerful combinations swap to the heavy duty 4L80 trans that requires some different wiring, a different tune, driveshaft and crossmember mods, a different converter, and cooler pipe mods to name a few.

  4. #4
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    BTW, that's my first name and last initial. Welcome aboard.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by GasGuzzler View Post
    BTW, that's my first name and last initial. Welcome aboard.
    Thanks!

    I've actually been a member since 04, but this is the first time I have posted. I've been quietly reading in the corner.
    Looks like we're both in Texas too, I'm in West Texas.

    Thank you all for the information. I'm definitely looking to go stock for stock. This is my wife's truck so it doesn't need to be anything crazy. I just thought if it was just as easy to put a 6.0L in as another 4.8L then what the heck. From what you all are saying, it looks to be just as easy.

    What transmission will give me added benefit of holding the 6.0L power with absolutely no mods (plug and play)? Bone stock is the key! Hate to admit I don't know what trans I have now... ??

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by nathank View Post
    What transmission will give me added benefit of holding the 6.0L power with absolutely no mods (plug and play)? Bone stock is the key! Hate to admit I don't know what trans I have now... ??

    4L80E FTW. Like I said earlier those mated up perfectly with the LQ4s. That will need little to no modifications to hold the weight of the burban and the power of the 6.0. Maybe do a servo or shift kit for some nice firm shifts
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by duckysbht View Post
    4L80E FTW. Like I said earlier those mated up perfectly with the LQ4s. That will need little to no modifications to hold the weight of the burban and the power of the 6.0. Maybe do a servo or shift kit for some nice firm shifts
    Well my concern with that is...

    Quote Originally Posted by gasguzzler
    Some of the more powerful combinations swap to the heavy duty 4L80 trans that requires some different wiring, a different tune, driveshaft and crossmember mods, a different converter, and cooler pipe mods to name a few.
    I would like to have something I can use the existing truck wiring, converter, crossmember, etc with.

  8. #8
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    Ohhh right right. Well then your only option is use the existing 60e, or get a fully built 60e
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  9. #9
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    A stock 60e wont last long behind a 6.0 especially if yours has 290k miles on it.
    2000 Silverado ECSB- 5.3 CAI, Pacesetter LTs, ORY- Pipe, Magnaflow XL, E-fan, Ported T/B , Nelson Tuned, Built 4l60e, Circle D Stall, 3.42s G80, 2-4 Drop, Hertz Highs, Rockford 501s

    2004 Buell XB12s

    Quote Originally Posted by LamboDoNoMo View Post
    "Never give up, NEVER BACK DOWN!!!"

  10. #10
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    So using a 65 or 70 would also require wiring and other modifications?

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