Hptuners Log data translation help required !

Hi guys,

I'm needing some help in translating some data from a yesterday pass log I made from my truck.

I attached 2 pics that show the data on the verge of changing gear, 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd.

I commanded in my tune to make the gear change at 6000 rpm. Thing is 1-2 gear change always comes at 5500 +/_

Also I'm running pump gas, so what do you think about timing? will upping some timing help me go faster?
I have a low timing cause I am always afraid from one batch of fuel to another in the gas station.

The IAT water injection system seems to be working right. From 67C at idle it lowers the iat temp in 1st gear to 54C and in 2nd gear is about 39C IAT temp.

The MAP2 reading, I can't understand how much full boost I am hitting at high gear...I am targeting 8 psi with a turbosmart manual boost controller but is a guessing job, just hearing clicks and test. Am I close to my target psi?

Thanks in advance for all the help guys.

Can you please post screen shots of your shift tables?

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Originally Posted by kerrige

Can you please post screen shots of your shift tables?

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yes sure....as soon as get to my laptop I''ll post pics.

any tab in particular?

for shifts

mph and rpm both have to be met in order to make a shift true....if rpm isnt being met then compare shift mph vs actual mph.. raise mph till it matches the rpm



with 8 psi you can easily get away with 1degree of timing deduct per psi...so figure what your motor NA would normally see and start removing timing from there. on 8psi you can run 20* timing easily with a AFR of 12.0

dont forget compression ratio has to do with timing as well. if you see hints of KR dont push it with pump fuel

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Originally Posted by farmtruc

dont forget compression ratio has to do with timing as well. if you see hints of KR dont push it with pump fuel

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This.^^^ I generally start adding timing a little bit at a time until I start to see even slight KR. I then remove some to stay safe. Timing will help build more power. This is coming from a tuning newb by comparison to these other guys. I might be a little over my head.

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Originally Posted by kerrige

Can you please post screen shots of your shift tables?

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Originally Posted by George C

for shifts

mph and rpm both have to be met in order to make a shift true....if rpm isnt being met then compare shift mph vs actual mph.. raise mph till it matches the rpm

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Here you go guys,

Looking at my mph vs rpm, mph are much lower, but on both cases, so according to that, shifting will ocour at whatever is first, mph or rpm.

Only 1 to 2 is going like that, 2-3 is going by rpm even tho the mph are lower !!!!????


Now, to resume, getting some more timing will make my truck faster at the same boost level?

And what is my boost level??? I see 157 kpa, how that translate to real world psi.

Remember I'm trying to target 8 psi.

First thing I would try is raising the mph for the shift I am wondering if the tps vs rpm vs shift table is off somehow. In theory yes adding timing will increase your power at the same boost level as long as you get no KR. No a gauruntee, but yes in theory you should. 157kpa on a basic converter translates to almost 23psi but you need to Factor in ambient kpa which should be about 105. You are in fact just barely north of 8lbs maybe 8.1

set the mph/rpm to correspond to eachother!!!

in HPtuners there is a conversion tool up top. in there it will translate KPA to psi, just remember 1 bar is 105 kpa=14.5 psi

i like to use the correct amount of timing per boost level in any platform

something to start doing is looking at the plugs for the mark on the strap. Also switch over to a cooler plug
the lightning is currently on BR7ef plugs at 16psi
the silverado is using Br8 at 18psi

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Originally Posted by 2boosted

Here you go guys,

Looking at my mph vs rpm, mph are much lower, but on both cases, so according to that, shifting will ocour at whatever is first, mph or rpm.

Only 1 to 2 is going like that, 2-3 is going by rpm even tho the mph are lower !!!!????


Now, to resume, getting some more timing will make my truck faster at the same boost level?

And what is my boost level??? I see 157 kpa, how that translate to real world psi.

Remember I'm trying to target 8 psi.

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No need to shift at a higher rpm if your truck isn't making power up top.
Put the truck on the dyno, hp is probably peaking at 5300--5400rpms, which is typical.
Truck is loosing boost up top because the system can't flow.
I'm always for all the rpm you can turn an engine, but not when it's lacking power.

I think I had several dreams about this already, lol.

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Originally Posted by farmtruc

No need to shift at a higher rpm if your truck isn't making power up top.<br />
Put the truck on the dyno, hp is probably peaking at 5300--5400rpms, which is typical.<br />
Truck is loosing boost up top because the system can't flow.<br />
I'm always for all the rpm you can turn an engine, but not when it's lacking power.<br />
<br />
I think I had several dreams about this already, lol.

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so farmtruc, if hp is peaking 5400 rpm, gear change at 6000 is a nice spot so next gear drop on power band?

If the trick system can't flow in upper rpm what options do I have to cure that?

I wish I can avoid all the trouble to tune at 12 psi and race fuel....and then to 18 psi and race fuel. Tuning at 8 psi and pump gas is enough stress for a life time :(


Any good tuner in the house?

I'm just assuming. What's happening is the housing is too small, or the back pressure is too great, so the engine can only flow/spin so much; so to speak.
I'm not saying the trick kit isn't flowing, i'm saying you're engine needs more freedom.
If you're shifting at a certain rpm, try to increase it or lower it and see if there are any significant changes in 1/4 mile time.
Dyno will show power curve.
From that you can base your tuning from. I tend to shift trucks a little higher or past the power band as well, the momentum allows the truck to pull past, and less rpm drop during shifts.
Just see what feels best.

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Originally Posted by George C

for shifts<br />
<br />
mph and rpm both have to be met in order to make a shift true....if rpm isnt being met then compare shift mph vs actual mph.. raise mph till it matches the rpm<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
with 8 psi you can easily get away with 1degree of timing deduct per psi...so figure what your motor NA would normally see and start removing timing from there. on 8psi you can run 20* timing easily with a AFR of 12.0

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there is no way I can figure what my engine timing likeness is at N/A state....she was born boosted.

I try to think engines are like humans. they all flesh and bones, but tend to act different when exposed to various situations. So do engines.

I think that if I can find a way to calculate my exact dynamic compression ratio, I'll be closer to pinpoint a generic number for the timing, and then work it up and down on my specific weather situations and other variable conditions.

To do that will you guys need my exact specs, or can you give general advice....like one size fits all?

thank you guys for all the advice.

Like it was mentioned, increase timing until there is a hint of knock, then back it down; or add some real fuel that engine and quit playing around with pump gas.

don't forget the OS of the pcm, engine noise, timing curve, power curve, engine flow, all the variables not mentioned play a part in maybe timing.

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Originally Posted by farmtruc

Like it was mentioned, increase timing until there is a hint of knock, then back it down; or add some real fuel that engine and quit playing around with pump gas.

don't forget the OS of the pcm, engine noise, timing curve, power curve, engine flow, all the variables not mentioned play a part in maybe timing.

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Plus some motors just hate timing :lol:

theres ways but only true way is to have at it.

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Originally Posted by 2boosted

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there is no way I can figure what my engine timing likeness is at N/A state....she was born boosted.

I try to think of engines are like humans. they all flesh and bones, but tend to act different when exposed to various situations. So do engines.

I think that if I can find a way to calculate my exact dynamic compression ratio, I'll be closer to pinpoint a generic number for the timing, and then work it up and down on my specific weather situations and other variable conditions.

To do that will you guys need my exact specs, or can you give general advice....like one size fits all?

thank you guys for all the advice.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by farmtruc

Like it was mentioned, increase timing until there is a hint of knock, then back it down; or add some real fuel that engine and quit playing around with pump gas.

don't forget the OS of the pcm, engine noise, timing curve, power curve, engine flow, all the variables not mentioned play a part in maybe timing.

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I'll play some with timing next track and tune day.

Dumb me right, like race fuel grows on trees. Pump gas is all I have now and I want it to run nice and efficient, not all out strong.

I just bought the TurboSmart e-Boost2, so when that arrives I'll test if the engine can handle maybe 9-10 PSI with pump gas and water injection. Will not be the most efficient way, but probably give more fun at the street than 7-8 psi. You can always pour some race fuel, more timing and more boost the easy way, but 89-91 octane 12 sec truck is a nice street toy.

Farmtruc, I have OS safe strategies on line, is a street truck, not a race truck.

i see your scanning in km/h . In the file are you setting shift points by mph or km/h?

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Originally Posted by GBNL

i see your scanning in km/h . In the file are you setting shift points by mph or km/h?

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Holy crap..... We all missed that....

and today I make 2 passes......and guess what, I moved my MPH shifpoints to match my rpms.

On my first pass I launch at 4 psi and Truck missed all gears :( Hit the rev limiter every time 1-2, 2-3 gear change. I had to lift the gas pedal in order to let it shift and then floor again.

Everything was untouched, except the full shift performance MPH. Then I read the log and saw rev limiter hitting 6300 rpm :(

I lowered my MPH for my second pass, but I was afraid and I Pedal shifted at 5500 rpm since it was a roll pass, and I wasn't going for a fast pass. I hate to hit the Rev limiter. Have some bad experiences with hitting rev limiters at hi RPM. (4 banger, but bad experience anyhow)

Can any one take a look at my Shift tables??? something is wrong and I cant figure out what is it !!!!! BTW my trans is not slipping.

Anyone with hptuners to read my logs? and my shift tables?

And the KMh vs mph is just for visuals, I tune based on MPH, but I like to see in KPH because is a familiar reference for me.

Just email Allen !

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Originally Posted by CHEVROLADE

Just email Allen !

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I rather email Casey than Nelson....

I'll figure it my way :'(

is youre trans revolutions correct? the trans will not shift correctly if these tables are not in order.

if yoru tables were setup for a certain size tire then you change the tire without changing these tables then it will not match actual

for a simple test zero out either the mph table or the RPM table and go off the other. set the table to a value you know is safe for now and raise it slowly till it reaches desired. also take into account the amount of shift time delay is being used. so you may need to command a rpm or mph slightly before actual

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Originally Posted by George C

is youre trans revolutions correct? the trans will not shift correctly if these tables are not in order.<br />
<br />
if yoru tables were setup for a certain size tire then you change the tire without changing these tables then it will not match actual<br />
<br />
for a simple test zero out either the mph table or the RPM table and go off the other. set the table to a value you know is safe for now and raise it slowly till it reaches desired. also take into account the amount of shift time delay is being used. so you may need to command a rpm or mph slightly before actual

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It appears that my segment swap is changing gears based on speed and not rpm as usual.


Talked to Allen Nelson and he founded out, and talked to Bill@hptuners and it appears to be some glitch in the matrix......

I can swap ecm and put new credits or....tune based on mph.


it happens once every million years to a dork. ..this time it choses me.


Thanks guys for all the help

Gth

ladies first !, after u......