crank pulley kinda fell off..

ok, me and a few friends were going to a friends house in the avalanche and i wasnt building boost for crap on the way there but the truck ran fine and then the ses light flashed a few times we got there and i couldnt find any thing wrong other than the belt not spinning fast enough so i thought the tensioner was toast, when we went to leave, no dice. i have been having belt issues for a while and now i know why. i crawled in the mud and saw the crank pulley flopping around. i got a breaker bar to tighten the bolt (that was less than finger tight) and again no dice. i am at a loss on how to go about fixing a truck, can the pulley be re pressed or pinned? if so what do i need to fix it or do i need to find a new motor quick like?

one thing is for sure is when you get it fixed you have to pin the crank..it would have prevented this

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Originally Posted by brobradh77

one thing is for sure is when you get it fixed you have to pin the crank..it would have prevented this

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so can it be fixed without a new crank? what pin kit are guys using?

you are most likely going to have to either replace the crank or have the snout welded up and recut back to size. The pulley is likely toast too. I would consider having them both cut for a keyway or two.

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Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat

you are most likely going to have to either replace the crank or have the snout welded up and recut back to size. The pulley is likely toast too. I would consider having them both cut for a keyway or two.

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Yeah, if it has been slipping on the snout for a while, no pinning is going to save it. There is a really good chance that the taper on the crank snout is badly worn and wont engage the pulley properly even if you torque it down nice and tight. And if there is any metal debris left in there between the mating surfaces, you'll do even more damage by tightening it and possibly lock the pulley on to where it will have to be cut off.

You could probably just swap the crankshaft out with a reman. with fresh bearings. But you'll have to pull the motor. And if your doing all of that, you might as well drop a fuel dollars and get a 6.0L longblock and swap everything over.

ya, their is a lot of metal on the pulley and crank, they dont look good. i was not wanting to replace a motor, a new crank would cost more than a used motor but i hate to see a motor shot because of a pulley. the good news is that my car is also down, i blew an intake gasket on my gtp when i was putting a new trans in the truck a couple weeks ago, i only drive the car a few miles a year and sitting is killing it. im hoping i can get by with pinning it or ? because im flat broke.

if you're going to attempt to pin it, get a new pulley to go on the crank and then pin it. Don't use a GM bolt on the pulley, get an ARP bolt since it's not designed to stretch out. Inside of the pulley is a flat surface that mates to the end of the crank, with proper tension you should be able to limp around a while but don't bet on it being a permanent fix.

Crank bolt tightened with an impact upon pulley swap I'd bet.

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Originally Posted by GasGuzzler

Crank bolt tightened with an impact upon pulley swap I'd bet.

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the pulley has never been off until it kinda fell off

Truck has a blower and the pulley has never been off?

crank should have been keyed when blower went on...wayyyy too much tension for the LS setup. I have no clue why they didn't key them from the factory. Especially on a motor base that is making such good numbers STOCK. I'd try to bolt it up, remove bolt, tack weld pulley to crank (if possible) and reinstall bolt while you save for a permanent fix.

I did something similar on my old 79z28, broke the key, ended up using a helicoil on the main bolt (which a few racing forums recommend even on new cranks because they are stronger). It help up fine after that.

if u weld it it may throw it off balance would it? btw i had this crap happen to me as well...was a worn out ASP pulley...there aluminum and once u install em and remove em they wear out.

there is no way to weld it together due to the design of the pulley/crank. The pulley has a flange and hole only big enough to get the bolt through.

one of my friends works for a company that lkq bought out and he is gonna look for a low mile 6L, he gets sweet deals, what year and what not 6L should i look for?, i plan on keeping it boosted. to get me by im gonna get a balancer and try to pin it but i cant find a pin kit anywhere, any sugestions?

http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...ex_ls1_pin.htm

Looks like it may be to put one or two pins in vertically to replace having a square broached slot along the length of the crank snout, not quite like how ATI and Magnuson do it with a dowel pin.

More like this one... http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/corvet...k-pin-kit.html

Page 36 in the Magnuson catalog has the PN for the pinning kit... http://www.magnusonproducts.com/pdf/catalog.pdf

This is on the ProCharger website... http://www.procharger.com/store/inde...ewCat&catId=19

im leaning towards the ati kit, its cheaper than a new motor.