im new at the nitrous thing and was wondering the difference between wet and dry nitrous and which are better ad the pro/cons of both:chevy:
Printable View
im new at the nitrous thing and was wondering the difference between wet and dry nitrous and which are better ad the pro/cons of both:chevy:
Dry sprays just nitrous, you spray it before the MAF and the PCM adds the extra fuel. A wet shot sprays N2O and fuel, you either pull the fuel from the rail or go to a stand-alone setup. Anything under a 100 shot I'd stick to dry, just for cost and simplicity.
so if i were to buy a wet kit what upgrades would a need for the fuel system. is it unsafe to do 150 shot on dry system
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02chevyls1
Probably nothing. At the most a Walbro 255. 150 is pushing it on a dry kit. I did it, but looking back I never should have.
Which ever route you take with the nitrous system you install on your truck, I would install just about every safety item offered for nitrous systems. Only because you are so new to it, and untill you really understand what's going on with how the system works while you're using it, you don't wanna press the wrong button at the wrong time or hold on to a button for longer than you're supposed to.
It's to the point now for me, where all I have on any single stage nitrous system is a button.
Another nice thing about a wet system is, when you run a stand alone fuel system you can have a gallon cell with race fuel in it. This way, the timing doesn't have to be so retarded.
your saying if the fuel you spray is higher octane, you dont have to retard your timing as much?
I havent done nitrous because i dont wanna mess with two tunes...
You're still gonna wanna pull some timing, but you can save yourself a couple degrees. A degree for every 50 is the typical rule of thumb. I've bumped it to a degree for every 100 when running 116 on a stand alone system, and never had issues.
My next setup is going to consist of a direct port nitrous system, and E85 as the fuel in the stand alone fuel system. The fuel will help because one, it's 105 octane and two, it is mostly alcohol which makes it run very cool. Also, you have to use 30% more E85 by volume compared to pump gas. This all equates to much cooler and ''resiliant'' air fuel charge, so the engine won't require such a cold plug and so much timing pulled. This will help alot with running a nitrous tune on motor, and not being so doggy in lower rpms.
I like it wet better.
That's what she said :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by zeake
I run a 125 on my motor tune. Meh.
RebelQuote:
Originally Posted by pl4yboy
If you aren't living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.Quote:
Originally Posted by truckinL33
why is 150 too much for dry? and i shouldnt need fuel upgrades for wet. will i need all the saftey stuff if i get it dyno tuned for the nitrous
150 really isn't too much for dry as long as it's tuned for it. The guys running huge dry shots are usually using them in a race only setup because the tune has to be fairly fat. Wet shots you take care of the fueling thru the nitrous setup.
can the truck be tuned on a switch for daily driving and then for the nos
Yep, there is a trick for wiring in resistors to the IAT, the extra resistance makes the IAT think it's pulling in HOT air so the PCM pulls timing. How it's done exactly I'm not sure, but yes it can be done.
here is some info jon posted on it, these work great and have never seen any issues with them, i will be running one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frenchy
http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/perfo...ard-trick.html
also wet vs dry, i would go with a wet plate kit, plates hit super hard and can easily flow a 150 shot (the nitrous outlet plate can flow a 200 shot) and we is just safer plus no worries about needing a bigger injector but a upgraded intank pump is probably a good idea. as far as safety switches run a arm switch then either a wot swith or a window switch (im running a window switch with a built in progressive controler) also a automatic bottle heater is a good idea, acidently leavin you heater on can be very bad. Either all your nozzzz turns to gas state qnd you could blow your pop-off and if thats not working your bottle could EXPLODE!!
For safety stuff, I'm just running a WOT, lots run window switches to save the transmission by not spraying through the shifts, or to prevent spraying in case something breaks and you hit the rev limiter. Reason I'm just doing a WOT switch is, the trucks a 5speed I'm not wide open through the shifts anyway.
They make so many nitrous controllers these days, the biggest rhatards can make big power and not blow their cars up.
im a little confused about th bigger fuel pump and a one gal tank i have 36lb injectors all ready will i still need the fuel pump
and what do you guys think of this kit http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/prod...cat=135&page=1
With a wet shot, the injectors are not as important as a higher volume fuel pump. In a wet system, if you are not running a seperate fuel system (typically a 1 gallon fuel cell, with a seperate pump) you need a larger volume pump to support the demand of the nitrous system. This is because you pull the fuel from your engine's fuel system, and in doing so you are also making the pump work harder to make up the difference. If your pump is not big enough, you will not have enough fuel to support your engine's needs while using nitrous. I can go on if you would like, that's pretty much the basics of it.
For that kind of money, I would rather buy a trusted brand such as NOS or NX.Quote:
Originally Posted by 02chevyls1
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...5&product=2534
One of the most trusted brands of people on this site.
The Interface Nitrous Controller
http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/prod...&cat=57&page=1
Can run full timing all the time with this...have heard nothing but good things about this...also there nitrous kits are great...don't let the name fool you.
does anyone have a part number for the high volume fuel pump and the one gal tank and pump
Walbro 255 is Gss340
will be ok with the stock bottem end spraying a 150 wet shot
If it is tuned correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by 02chevyls1
:nx: spray n pray
i made many of passes on 150 shot with a motor tune and stock bottom end. spray and pray for sure!
so i take it that 150s not that safe, i race my truck on the sand dunes and would like to spray well doing it, i pry race 50 times in a weekend, safe or no
other than that it pry wont get much use
a bottle wont last that long so it doesent really matter then. one bottle a weekend is pretty safeQuote:
Originally Posted by 02chevyls1
A full 10 pounder will last roughly ten 1/4 mile runs on a 100 shot. Give or take
Mine's never lasted that long. EVER. Even with a heat source. 6 tops.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frenchy
well 150 it is then and i guess run it tell i run out or brake something
Make sure you have pulled timing in your tune. Do not run a 150 on a tune with high timing without checking for knock first.