Electric Water Pump questions

all
im considering putting a meziere electric water pump on the SS
so,
1) do i need my tune altered for it
2) what do i need to alter the serp belt setup
3) is there a way to monitor the coolant pressure, or anything ya'll can think of to monitor the water pump? I ask because its electric, and it is less prone to 'pre failure' alerts you'd get like a mechanical pump.. meaning,, a mechanical one may sound different when its about to go out (mine did), but an electrical one.. probably not.. or am i wrong on that???

also, anyone got pics of one, and thier setup by chance?

If you really want, you can have a light (or LED because they are way sweeter) mounted on the dash somewhere. Have the light wired in on the power side (or ground side, both are just as important), so that the light is on when the pump is running. If there is some sort of electrical failure, the light will shut off. The belt setup should remain the same, and there is no retune required.

sweetness!! thanks Boz!
anyone got a pic of thier setup? i thought the belt was different...??

the water pump with the belt comes with car style dead man pully, pretty sure it wont work on the trucks w/o spacers of some sort, or some modification. i have not seen one on a truck yet, other than ones that have converted to f body accessories.

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Originally Posted by TurboMic

the water pump with the belt comes with car style dead man pully, pretty sure it wont work on the trucks w/o spacers of some sort, or some modification. i have not seen one on a truck yet, other than ones that have converted to f body accessories.

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Very good point, I didn't even think of the accessories. Someone's gotta make some kind of adapter for trucks.

i fired off an email to meziere.

i run an electric water pump, and not the car acc's. you'll need adaptor plates between pump and engine block, to space out for the pulleys to align. move the idler to the center bolt of the alt,power steering bracket. i had to cut and grind some on my bracket to make the pump work, but i think the 06 and ^ bracket will work without issues, fixing to try one this weekend..


i'll post pics sometime this week along with belt number i used...

sweet skeet!!

ill get some better pics this evening if i dont work over ..

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...91212-2100.jpg

way cool!! cant wait to see it with the belt on!
where did you get power for the pump?

a) your stuff is in at my work

b) we can wire it up, no problem (I went to school for electrical stuff)

c) running a led, will let you know if the POWER fails, not the pump. I would recommend getting a pressure sensor, and adding a seperate gauge. Might even have to use a carb'd fuel pressure gauge, to read low enough values. We could just tap/thread in a sensor (mechanical or electrical) I BELIEVE they say those pumps are only rated for 500 ish hours. Which was reason I swayed away from one before and just got the under-drive to cut down on power loss thru accesories.


I will check out some sensors at work. I can probably wire something up so the LED will be bright when pressure is high, and off when pressure is low/off. That will save you from running another gauge (though that's def not as accurate)

If the pump fails, the power will be cut off too (it's like an open circuit). If the power fails, well then the power fails.

i picked up the stuff last night.. i returned the chain set cuz i found an ls2 HD chain set on pt.net.
i dont think i got anything else up there.. do i?
also, is that timing gasket available to order yeT?

ah ok. That makes sense. I was assuming it was like a bulb. You can run power to the plug, even if the filament is broke.

how much is the underdrive setup?

like 170 + belts.

Deff keeping this thread in my list. I have been wanting to do this, esp running a procharger, with out a dedicated belt, sucks, if you pop a belt way from home you screwed.. As for the LED light, even if it did let you know when the electric failed to the pump, it would just be a useless step imo, you would find out if the pump fails due to the engine getting hot, lol

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Originally Posted by Mangled03gmc

Deff keeping this thread in my list. I have been wanting to do this, esp running a procharger, with out a dedicated belt, sucks, if you pop a belt way from home you screwed.. As for the LED light, even if it did let you know when the electric failed to the pump, it would just be a useless step imo, you would find out if the pump fails due to the engine getting hot, lol

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Very good observation, the LED method prevents your engine from overheating if you're not paying attention.

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Originally Posted by MidwestSS

way cool!! cant wait to see it with the belt on!
where did you get power for the pump?

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i came off the grey wire from the fuel pump, when you first turn the key on the pump primes up just like the fuel pump then shuts off, once you crank the engine the fuel pump kicks on as to the EWP ;)

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Originally Posted by skeet

i came off the grey wire from the fuel pump, when you first turn the key on the pump primes up just like the fuel pump then shuts off, once you crank the engine the fuel pump kicks on as to the EWP ;)

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So did you use a relay of some sort, or just that wire from the fuel pump??

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Originally Posted by Mangled03gmc

So did you use a relay of some sort, or just that wire from the fuel pump??

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yes i used a relay, dang whats his name? ( thinking ) krambo, i followed his build on silveradoSS, there was a harness i had gotten with relay and all, think it was like 35 bux ( not sure ) anyway find his build thread.. and you'll be set.. personally i think on a blown or forced induction truck/car the ewp is the way to go, i never had a mechanical pump that kept my block sooo cool, nothing over 180 and usually stays around 170..

also dont understand why one would need a idiot light to know when there ewp isnt working? my truck shutsdown when it reaches a maxed temp through tuning ;)

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Originally Posted by skeet

yes i used a relay, dang whats his name? ( thinking ) krambo, i followed his build on silveradoSS, there was a harness i had gotten with relay and all, think it was like 35 bux ( not sure ) anyway find his build thread.. and you'll be set.. personally i think on a blown or forced induction truck/car the ewp is the way to go, i never had a mechanical pump that kept my block sooo cool, nothing over 180 and usually stays around 170..

also dont understand why one would need a idiot light to know when there ewp isnt working? my truck shutsdown when it reaches a maxed temp through tuning ;)

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COuld you be a nice guy and give me the link, I am not a member over there.. :D

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Originally Posted by Mangled03gmc

COuld you be a nice guy and give me the link, I am not a member over there.. :D

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http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/in...hl=krambo&st=0

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Originally Posted by skeet

http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/in...hl=krambo&st=0

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You tha man :beerchug:

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Originally Posted by Mangled03gmc

You tha man :beerchug:

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enjoy the 18 pages or so lol personally IIRC its around page 6-10 ..

krambo did one hellva job on that build !!

Hell yah he did, I kinda remember it. Yah I am making my way up to them pages now.. LOL

thanks for the info.. ill start shoppin around for a blue EWP.. even on a NA engine, there should be some benefits.. no?

It'll be less of a load on the engine, sinse the crankshaft doesn't have to turn the water pump anymore. At the same time, it's more of a load on the alternator to spin the pump constantly. In the end, it's a gain.