LQ4 Build

11-18-09: This is my LQ4 that i got out of an 07 3/4 ton work truck. I will be doing my research and taking my time picking my combo out. I am going NA with it, looking for about 9.8-10.2 CR. I've talked with Richard at West Coast Cylinder Heads for P&P my heads, some milling, new valves, and dual springs. Looking into some forged pistons, the GT2-3 cam, and a TB stall. While I'm in there i will be putting some LPP or Pacesetter headers in with 3 inch exhaust with a Magnaflow single in/dual out muffler

This is so i can keep some notes online.

Any advice or tips would be greatly apprieciated.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...d/IMG_3337.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...d/IMG_3345.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/i...d/IMG_3344.jpg

If you have a suggestion on a better part, or if I have the wrong information, please let me know because this is my first Gen 3 build.

P&P heads come with Patriot dual springs rated at .650 lift, 375 open pressure,
heads milled .035-.040 with a 66-69cc chamber
Lingenfelter GT2-3 cam - 207/220 .571/.578 118.5 (still undecided on)
GMPP LS6 springs rated at .580 lift - 12586484
Comp non-adjustable timing set - 3153KT
Crank bolt - GM # 12557840
Comp hardend pushrods - (can't get length until i figure out how much the heads are milled)
Walbro 255gph - GSS341 (if needed)
GMPP Lifters - 12499225

Added:ARP head bolts, 04 & later - 134-3610
ARP header bolts - 434-1301
ARP cam retainer plate bolts - 134-1002
ARP cam sprocket bolts - 134-1003
ARP rod bolts - 134-6006
ARP main bolts - 234-5608
ARP crank bolt - 234-2503

for starters that cr isto low for a NA build, thats more for a forced induction build.. you would wanna see 11:1 cr

go ARP head bolts imo. better to have to tq them down twice vs tq it then turn it 90* then another 90* or some crap.

if youd rather use stock head bolts i have a BNIB set ive changed my mind on. pm me if you want them.
id stay with the 7,000rpm lifters no need for the 8,000+ lifters you'll never spin that motor that high imo
go with an ARP crank bolt an stay away from the LS6 springs. if your doing p&p heads from wcch do them right with the patriot extremes for 20.00 more
seems like a good build so far.
why'd you buy such a new motor if your gonna rebuild it anyways? just asking

i am going for a good dependable street truck. what is your cr?

what is the limit on milling the heads without having to worry about piston to valve clearance with dished pistons?

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Originally Posted by keniff

go ARP head bolts imo. better to have to tq them down twice vs tq it then turn it 90* then another 90* or some crap.

if youd rather use stock head bolts i have a BNIB set ive changed my mind on. pm me if you want them.
id stay with the 7,000rpm lifters no need for the 8,000+ lifters you'll never spin that motor that high imo
go with an ARP crank bolt an stay away from the LS6 springs. if your doing p&p heads from wcch do them right with the patriot extremes for 20.00 more
seems like a good build so far.
why'd you buy such a new motor if your gonna rebuild it anyways? just asking

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the truck had 128K miles on it, with a noticeable loss of power. it was pulled on the lift under its own power but only had like 90 to 120 pounds of compresson on 2 cylinders, and they said the cam had grooves in some of the lobes. i only paid the core charge for the motor.

i run 11:1 cr on my setup and yes i do drive it daily..

maybe not as much as i used to since i have 4 trucks and a car lol

but anyway the lq4 is already at 10.5.1 or close to it, you talked to richard at wcch i would talk to him again and mention what you want out your build, if hes gonna do the P&P on the heads let him know you want 11:1 cr he will mill them why he has the heads, let him know youre wanting to run a NA setup.. he'll give you good advice on a street strip combo ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skeet

the lq4 is already at 10.5.1 or close to it,

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everywhere i have read, they(lq4) come from the factory are 9.4 to 1, the lq9 is 10.1 to 1

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Originally Posted by sierraman

everywhere i have read, they(lq4) come from the factory are 9.4 to 1, the lq9 is 10.1 to 1

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i stand corrected, thank you, dunno what i was thinking, but youre right..

but all in all whatever you wanna chieve i would talk to wcch, they deffinately know what there doing and give ya better advice on your build.. but 11:1 is still good cr for daily driving

it's cool man. what about the fuel system?

should i stick with my factory pump and injectorys or upgrade to like a walbro 255 and flex fuel injectors, or should i upgrade to something a little bigger?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sierraman

it's cool man. what about the fuel system?

will a walbro 255 and flex fuel injectors be enough, or should i upgrade to something a little bigger?

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dunno about flexfuel, mines return style, shouldnt be much of a difference? but a walbro is all i run along with many others with NA setups, not i will have to step it up when i go nitrous, also i'm using 42 # injectors, so are your plans are to keep the block stock? or you gonna do any boring maybea bigger bore size?

i would like to keep the block stock, but if it needs to be bored out, then so be it.

where is a good place/brand to get forged pistons?

ahh i see man! im on my phone so i didnt notice how dirty the motor was. first of all 350 is not a bad price!! congrats.

the info i have gathered on the LQ4 from richard himself.
stock head gasket and stock 243s will net you a 10.3 compression roughly. richard will tell you exactly how much will be milled. i also spoke with Rex, he recommends to stay close to a 10:5:1 for a strong built street/strip combo.
its all up to you man, a lot of people run higher compressions and such. but your idea of a DD an theirs are different. just like i think DD is a truck that'll put down 450+ rwhp an still get 18mpg on the highway.

i wish i woulda kept all the pm's from Richard when i was goin to build my LQ4, it had tons of info and piston options an such.

walbro 255 is good
get 8.1 injectors(32lbs i think) IF you stay away from the juice. if not bump up to the 42lbs injectors or shop pt.net for them.
if i was you go ahead an build a 370 being that many miles on it

get with Richard man he can spec you any type of build you want. hes got good prices on parts too if your looking to build it yourself.

what is richard's screen name?

i dunno about on here but on pt.net it is richard@WCCH

it's the same on here, and i have 317 heads

your gonna haveto mill them a lot more than a set of 243s.
good luck with the build keep us updated with pics!
i would love to build a 370, i just have too many projects going on to make time for another engine build

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sierraman

P&P heads come with Patriot dual springs rated at .650 lift, 375 open pressure Yup
heads milled .035-.040 with a 66-69cc chamber Yup..might as well get nice valve job done as well
Lingenfelter GT2-3 cam - 207/220 .571/.578 118.5 Too small (234/236 .585/.590 112+2 LSA)
Comp non-adjustable timing set - 3153KT Yup
Crank bolt - GM # 12557840 Yup
Comp hardend 7.400" pushrods - 7955-16 Length dependent on how much you mill the heads
GMPP LS6 springs rated at .580 lift Go with the PRCs
Walbro 255gph - GSS341 Yup
GMPP Lifters - 12499225 Yup
GMPP High Performance Lifters, rated at 9,000 rpms? Not needed.
GM Head Bolt Kit, 04 & Later Go ARP

Added:ARP head bolts, 04 & later - 134-3610 Oh, gotchya.
ARP header bolts - 434-1301 Yup
ARP cam retainer plate - 134-1002 Yup
ARP cam sprocket - 134-1003 Yup

anybody got the pn's for the correct rod bolts, crank, and main cap bolts?
should i upgrade to some flex fuel injectors that are rated at 34# instead of the stocker's that are 26#?

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ARP Rod Bolts 134-6006. The regular GM crank bolt is fine. But if you want ARP: 234-2503. Mains are 234-5608.

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Originally Posted by keniff

go ARP head bolts imo. better to have to tq them down twice vs tq it then turn it 90* then another 90* or some crap....

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LOL. True dat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sierraman

what is the limit on milling the heads without having to worry about piston to valve clearance with dished pistons?

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Just don't go any higher than your planned .035 - .040.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sierraman

...should i stick with my factory pump and injectorys or upgrade to like a walbro 255 and flex fuel injectors, or should i upgrade to something a little bigger?

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If you are gunna be running the newly built motor and the mods, new injectors will be needed over your stock 5.3L injectors. Flex Fuel injectors are rated at 34 lbs per hr. They MIGHT do it.

The fuel pump should be able to keep up...for now. Leave it be...and if you aren't getting the fuel you need--then go with the Walbro.

i just realized i never told ya'll the intent on the motor. it will be mainly used as a DD, might see the track a few times a year, and i don't want to hesitate on hooking a trailer on it. i was wanting to keep the 3.73's for mpg, but want to upgrade to a tru-trac unit later. i do want a nice, smooth idle (incase someone needs to drive my truck they won't freakout at the rough, choppy idle).

1. the factory rockers have 128k miles on them, should i reuse them, get new factory ones, or get aftermarket ones like scorpion, harland sharp, etc.
2. will a reworked(circle d) tb stall work well enough for a DD, but not be to extreme that i can't tow with it?
3. what about this cam, Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft
"Old Man Truck Cam" p/n:99-TR214/220-115 2 - specs are 214/220 .600/.523 115+2

1. i have no idea how long they last..price the new ones an price the aftermarket ones and decide your budget.
2. hell yes! i love my 3000-3200 stall its perfect for me
3. do a 220/224 .585.588 113+4 cam..it will do good in a built LQ4

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sierraman

3. what about this cam, Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft
"Old Man Truck Cam" p/n:99-TR214/220-115 2 - specs are 214/220 .600/.523 115 LSA 2

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i think Ian http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/members/show-and-go.html might be selling his old man cam...might hit him up!

i've read that factory rods are 6.096, others say that they are 6.125? which is it? anyone have a favorite brand over another?

on this 07 LQ4, should it have pressed pins or have pins with snap rings?

6.1 for all practical purposes. 6.125 is the length of rod used in stroker engines.

thanks greg

well i'm sorry to report that a local shop found out that i had this motor laying around waiting to get built and they made me an offer i could't refuse so bye bye lq4.

i'm just sorry that i didn't get to build her up, but that just means i get to sink that money into the 5.3 now or just make 2 truck payments, i haven't decided yet

get the truck payed off ASAP so you then have that much more every month to mod with!! :D

that is what i am thinking, it will be so nice to have one less monthly bill, i only have 24 payments left though