would there be any realy gains or reason to buy one and run it?
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would there be any realy gains or reason to buy one and run it?
i was thinking the same thing
you would be paying mostly for the brand name they all work the same generally and i think the plus to having a 160* stat is to allow the tuner to pull more timing or something in your tune.
The 160 t-stat allows your motor to run at cooler temps. And we all know what the main enemy any engine deals with when it comes to creating power??? Yes, very good class--its HEAT. The only thing the 160*t-stat does is open up sooner. The motor can run better when cooler, but nothing is really beneficial unless you have cooler IATs. Sure, the cooler underhood temps you have should drop your IATs, but the 160* t-stat needs to work in conjunction with a CAI, efans, and a tune.
When GM went with the LS1, they beefed up the motor's components over the SBC design in order to allow the motor to run at higher operating temps--allowing the motor to comply with emissions better. With the EGR and PCV systems, the motor would pretty much burn off all gasses either the first or second time through the combustion cycle. Yes, its better for emissions--but not good for overall performance. This is why people run a 160* t-stat, 40k tranny coolers, e-fans, catch cans, and eliminate the EGR.
without a tune, you'll stay in open loop, and lose power/gas mileage.
With a tune, there are a few benefits.
Thanks guys answered my question. Is even worth getting a hand tuner or don't waste my money and have a shop do it?
for the price your gonna pay for a hand tuner you can find a very reputable person that can give you a street tune. (usually for less) stay away from hand helds!
oh or you can just get a mail order tune from nelson or something.
Try going here... Nelson Performance - Performance without Sacrificing Drivability
Great people, excellent customer service and they have quite the following/reputation.
If your talkin about the truck in your signature the 07 NNBS and newer, it goes from open loop to closed loop at 102* ECT..
ON a 99-06 its at 131*ECT...
So thats not true.
I put a BB in my thermostat and i noticed no drop in gas mileage. ECTs stay around 170ish. Depends on Ambient Temp.
I've heard otherwise from MANY people with all sorts of gm's. My 97 monte would not come out of open loop for about 20 minutes unless it was super hot outside.
If you live in texas, prolly doesnt matter. But here in IL, especially in winter, no way it'd go to closed loop on most of my trips. I even noticed a lapse in time when I switched to the 34" radiator.
Hell, mine is in closed loop in about 30 seconds.
I normally make it to work before my needle hits 1/2 way to 210.
if ur worried about the loss of power and gas mileage well then might as well go with n electric water pump... yea yea i kno there a BBBBBBB to deal with but hey its worth it
Neither of the temps above are correct when you consider where P0128 sets. I have OEM efans retrofitted and a 160 tstat and it took some BS to make the tune work without P0128...we'll see come winter if it worked.
P0128 is set to NO on all the tunes i have on my laptop..
if you don't want to spend the money on the stat, i've heard of guys drilling small holes (2 or 3) on perimeter of the stat. This still allows it to open fully at stock temp, but small amounts of coolant flow at all temps...and you get slightly better flow when stat IS open
A company started selling them for the gtp guys, not sure if it helps a lot...but I'm sure a little.
So I was curious to test this today. I was watching my wideband and aeroforce scan gauge so I knew exactly at what point it would switch to closed loop.
Sure enough when the coolant temp got to 131* it went right into closed loop. I could tell because the A/F ratio went from about 13.5 to 14.5-14.7 at exactly that time.