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I think I dont haft to worry bout hooking again
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Question: I orderd Mickey T tubes for them. But the valve stem was MASSIVE! Wouldnt go in the rim. They had a 2 tubes for these rims already. They arent as heavy duty though. Is that ok?
Drill the valve stem hole larger.
Don't forget to put screws in the rim to hold the tire from spinning. If it spins you will rip the valve stem off the tube. I think the MOROSO number is 90100 or something like that. 90300?
Since I dont have like a 11sec truck is it ok to run it the way it is till I can get them redone the right way?Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
Do you have a pic of how the screws are to be put in the rim? Thats a bit confusing to me greg. I dont see how that would NOT cause a deflation problem....
I found this:
Rim Screw Templates - summitracing.com
and this:
Rim Screws - summitracing.com
How do thes work? Do you drill the wheel without the tire on, then put the tire on followed by the screws? Or, do you install the tire and drill through the wheel and tire, then put the screws in it? :doofus:
They look like regular screws........ Can I just go to Ideal and buy some screws? Like 3/4 inch.... I think (as in I wish someone would tell me the exact) I should drill through the rim into the tire holding it into place along the lip?
Do I really need the other tubes in it. I mean its a tube. I put screws in slicks.... Then it CANT rotate inside the rim so I wouldnt need the big tube.
Greg or someone that has done this please chime in before I screw something up
you drill through the bead area. The tire bead is thick in that location and the screws don't go all the way through the bead. Be sure you have about 25 psi of air in the tire when you put the screws in. Put a stop on your drill bit so you don't drill all the way through the tire. I used a piece of vacuum tubing on the bit all the way up to the point of it. Drill the rim with the tire already on it. The screw kit will tell you the proper size drill bit to use. Once drilled you just wrench the screws into place. The ones in the kits are hardened and plated steel and won't strip out like most hardware grade screws.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Show&Go
you'll be fine, even tubeless i doubt youre pushing the rwhp to screw the rim to the tire!!
So basically I need to order the rim screws.Quote:
Originally Posted by skeet
But till I get them If I can get to the track and run it I SHOULD be fine?? I dont see me having enough power to worry about it yet either. But I will do it. What about switching the tubes???
i wouldnt worry about running a tube the tire will do fine tubeless, and before you slick screw it take it to the track and shoepolish a line on your tire were the valve stem is make a few passes and see if it moves. my opinion it wont have enough bottom end to turn the tire on the wheel.
Well it spins pretty bad on DRs I tried out. My truck really only has bottom end. The top end sucks. The 2.0 60ft was with bit of spinning. I am kinda worried about it hooking too well. At least with what I got in the works. I myaswell do it now so I dont haft to worry about when I forget it later.
it is all up to you my slick does not move. i run them tubeless with no screws and i 60 foot 1.52 is my best.
Imma run it before I put the screws in it to see if it moves any like you said. I doubt it will. I am always into doing things safely though. I doubt my 60ft will get that low! haha. But O I am going to try.
yea that is in my car but if you can get your truck to 60 what my car does that would be sick.
I want it to be sick. I want to be down right ILL. HAHA. all things in time though. For right now get them on and find out how jacked up my pinion angle is.
Truck is a lot heavier and has more potential to spin the bead. If you're not gonna run the tube you should run, don't bother with the rim screws.....but if you don't run a tube, get REAL screw in valve stems AT LEAST. If you run the proper tubes (natural rubber tubes), use the screws.