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My truck is almost ready for its first trip out of the driveway but I still need to work out alot of small problems and one really big one. First off I realized today that the truck still rolls forward in park! Not a surprise I wanted to get. The other two problems that have me stumped are the fuel gauge staying way past full after I put in the new pump and I have no tachometer well I do it just doesn't move, is that something that should have been changed in the tune?
Does the trans have all the other gears? Might be an adjustment but sounds like something is loose or broken.
Fuel gauge reading full means the signal wire is open, the float is open, or possibly something about the swap I don't know.
All I know for sure is that it has first and reverse. The new pedal and tac module will be in today so I haven't had a way of giving it any fuel yet.
Your fuel level gauge sending wire might be grounded, and it shouldn't be.
Grounded would show E.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1GMCTruck
Nope the purple wire goes to the gauge cluster and the black/white wire is grounded on the firewall and seems to be a good ground but i'll move it around tomorrow and see what happens.
My biggest concern now is the transmission. I've seen manual trans. trucks roll off while parked but never one with an automatic.
Can the tachometer signal be changed in the tune or will I need a converter? if a converter is needed is this what I need?
Auto Meter 9117 - Auto Meter Distributorless Ignition Tachometer Adapters - summitracing.com
Ok so I checked it out today and damn do I ever feel stupid.The linkage couldn't move all the way forward because it was hitting the header flange. I don't know how I could have missed that, but it shouldn't be a hard fix I just gotta pull the header find a new flange to weld on and cut the collector down a bit.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...Picture015.jpg
So does anyone know how to make the tachometer work on one of these swaps or what?
theres a whte wire in the pcm use that one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamborado
I tried that one and even hooked up an aftermarket tach and still nothing. From what I've read on here the 5.3l PCM puts out a different signal than what my tach needs.
I used a BakerElectronix.com tach adapter in my 92 truck to use the factory indash tach. You may just have a bad connection if neither tach will work. A newer tach should work just fine without a converter. You have to get the tune setup for the factory tach or buy the adjustable adapter.
Well I'd like to avoid using a tach adapter if I can. I want to keep things as simple as possible. I've found a guy localy that programs PCMs so what signal would I have to have it changed to for a 95 guage cluster tach?
Quote:
Originally Posted by low91
Where did you get those flanges for the headers????:hyper2:
I got them from a local peformance/exhaust shop. Its a pretty standard item any good exhaust shop should have a few laying around. A 3" flange slips over the collector and welds in place then the pipe side is just flared to match up. If you ask me these headers should come with flanges, there the first set of headers I've had that didn't. If you can't get them localy i think summitracing has the flared side w/flanges
Summit SUM-G4754 - Summit® Exhaust Reducer Kits - summitracing.com
Thes should work nice to clear the trans crossmember
Hedman Hedders 18804 - Hedman Universal Header X-Tensions - summitracing.com
After you fix your header interference problem...You should somehow get a heat barrier between the exhaust & the transmission/linkage, etc. Its way too close in my opinion.
Yeah It is pretty close. I've been driving it for about a week now so I should probably check the boot out to make sure its not melted. I'm going to pull the exhaist and paint it in the next few weeks whenever I get the new exhaust welded up, I was planing on wraping a few feet back with header wrap.Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1GMCTruck
Found this when I was cruising the net. May be your answer for a cheap easy fix on your tach...
Good info. I was thinking about switching to all aftermarket gauges anyway so this would be an easy fix. It states that the pcms tac signal wasn't strong enough, but I though the problem was that the pcm put out a different signal?Quote:
Originally Posted by 7two
Sorry to dig this back up, but did you ever get your tach working? I know how to fix it if you didn't.
LMK.
Thanks,
Cody B.