94 1500 Progress

thank you sir :)
its gonna be a sneaky DD ;) i could have gone back stock but then id be unhappy when my truck is getting passed up like im sitting still.

ive got a lot of things i needa pick up but i cant find the time to do it all in one day.

what are yall using to clean the surface of the heads an block? i dont wanna use a plastic scrapper bc its not chunks of stuff its just got a discolor to it.

ive got pics of the cam swap an knock sensors but no time to upload them just yet..maybe ill get a chance tomorrow to post em.

I clean the top of the block with a box knife blade held in fingers only. Heads always go the the machine shop to have them milled to minimum cleanup. $55 is what it costs here to surface a set of heads. $25 to wash them. If the block just is discolored you can use red scotchbrite to clean it up. Aluminum heads, you could use one of those white bathroom scouring pads.

+1 on the scotch brite

thanks redheartbeat! i sent my heads to be milled .030 to bump the compression...6 weeks later still not touched. got them back an left them alone. it actually made me mad bc i was counting on my heads being milled and running a higher compression. but oh well, it just taught me not to ever go back to them an everyone i know i will recommend them to stay away from them.
dumb question, but...
where to get the red scotchbrite pads? only thing i remember seeing are green ones.

redheartbeat: i looked through your garage pics an didnt see any pics of the radiator..did you trim down the bolt tabs considering the stick up past the radiator support or did you cut the bottom out an make it lower that way you could use the tabs to bolt it in. any ideas would be great before i cut up my radiator

servo install
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...11-09002-1.jpg
pop the snap ring out with a flat head
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...11-09003-1.jpg
take a pair of plyers to pull the cover off...i didnt cut my o-ring like everyone was saying to do
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...11-09004-1.jpg
pull the whole servo assembly out with your fingers
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...11-09005-1.jpg
pull the 4th gear servo off remember which way it goes or you'll screw up
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...9-11-09006.jpg
easy stuff...shouldnt have to explain it in full detail. but pull your E clip make sure you dont lose it. pull everything apart 1 peice at a time and lay it exactly how it would come off the servo pin
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...9-11-09006.jpg
take a small C clamp, a socket, a peice of foam or a small towel to press the plate in to expose the inside spring to install the Blue spring that comes in the shift kits
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...9-11-09008.jpg
place the blue spring inside of the old spring and repeat the steps in reverse
any problems ask ill explain in more detail..it's not that hard :cheers:

GEN IV knock sensor swap to GEN III knock sensors
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...9-11-09011.jpg
drill bit size was an 11/32 its just enough to knock the current threads out, tap with a 10x1.5
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...9-11-09010.jpg
tapping is a slow process...so be sure not to thread it at an angle. i used liquid wrench that i "Borrowed" from work. it works really good. when the tap starts to get hard go in reverse then go forward again. make sure to blow the hole out with air or your gonna pack all those shavings behind the new knock sensor :rick
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...9-11-09009.jpg
installed, pretty simple. use a 7/8 wrench and dont feel like you have to tighten it so tight you'll bust a blood vessel it's a pretty simple snug it down method

onto the cam install of the GEN IV it's simple as hell too once you get the pulley off.

pull the pulley off and prep up with a 10mm deep drive socket and a 6" extension or just use air tools your choice.
pull the cover off. on the GEN IV the oil pan gasket wraps around the front where the timing cover would be. only use a few dabs where the factory used it, i also put a small dab on the corners where the block meets the oil pan and timing cover.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...9-11-09012.jpg
gotta love a 1 bolt cam ;)
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...9-11-09013.jpg
pull the retainer plate with a TORX bit..i didnt pay attention to the size, but i can look if anyone really needs it.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...9-11-09014.jpg
if you dont have the cam tool like i didnt, just throw the cam bolt back in and walk it out VERY slowly and supporting it so it doesnt have to rub on the cam bearings a lot.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d8...9-11-09015.jpg
i soaked the cam in COMP CAM LUBE just to be on the safe side. went back in the same way it came out..nice and slow.
i cleaned the threads of the retainer plate and used a SMALL dab of Red Loc-tite on it. i understand the factory used blue or green. i dont care red loc-tite can be used but you have to remember to use VERY little thanks to how strong it is.
put everything back nice and slow take your time.
i dont have an UD pulley on this motor but i used the ARP 12 point crank bolt anyways. i pulled the pulley in then backed the bolt back out and used liquid wrench on 1 1/2'' of the threads and ran it in until the pulley stopped at the old marks the seal made.

not too bad for a first timer and having to run and get parts PLUS help a friend take a water pump off his truck. then the fiance' was home when i got back and had to eat lunch with her and spend time with her..damn women :tantrum: nah im playing...i enjoyed taking a break :matt

Auto paint store can get you the red scotchbrite, its about the most popular one there is and then there's the grey which is less abrasive. Oreilly's may have it too.

If you're using a NBS radiator, drill holes in the core support where pin holes are supposed to fit in. I used a hole saw to do the blue truck's radiator mount hole locations in the lower core support. After that its just as simple as dropping it in and making a couple tabs to mount the topside to the upper core support area.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by keniff

thanks redheartbeat! i sent my heads to be milled .030 to bump the compression...6 weeks later still not touched. got them back an left them alone. it actually made me mad bc i was counting on my heads being milled and running a higher compression. but oh well, it just taught me not to ever go back to them an everyone i know i will recommend them to stay away from them.
dumb question, but...
where to get the red scotchbrite pads? only thing i remember seeing are green ones.

redheartbeat: i looked through your garage pics an didnt see any pics of the radiator..did you trim down the bolt tabs considering the stick up past the radiator support or did you cut the bottom out an make it lower that way you could use the tabs to bolt it in. any ideas would be great before i cut up my radiator

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Something easy to do while you still have it apart. Take that crappy spring loaded chain tensioner and toss it in the dumpster. Thats all its good for. It will FAIL. Trust me. Then replace it with GM #12588670. It will last and save your motor..

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/DSC05613.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/DSC05633.jpg

i hate you lol i put it back together already..i guess before i do the heads ill upgrade to that. do i have to pull the oil pump to install that? i didnt pull the oil pump to pull the cam.
it looks like i can unbolt it without pulling the oil pan but i dunno how it looks.

thanks for all the help, keep it coming!

you might be able to snake it in there if you remove the cam gear first.