Officially Swapping in a 6.0/2wd 4L80e into my 99 OBS Escahoe - GET DA WATER

Thanks for posts and pictures which has rejuvenated my memory!

Useless info: I had to swap out my original intake from 00 Chevy2500 Series b/c I bought PRC CNC LS3/L92 heads...in a few posts back. I needed an L92 Intake with the Cathedral Ports to match the new heads.

So now I will have to get to my buddies house where the motor is stored, take a few pics and look at the lines off the L92 Intake.

Here are pics from the "modified" fuel rail.

Seems like it was one Line from the factory but he welded the AN Fitting to run both lines?

Pics
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...ps0e5b52fe.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...ps8110b0d0.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...ps20abe51a.jpg

can you get in touch with the guy to find out why he did it?

I will dig thru a few of my PMS...but found this while searching the net of Vette Fuel Filters


http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...2nd-try)/page5

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kewljay223

can you get in touch with the guy to find out why he did it?

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Here is the exact link...where I got them from
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...ectors-507892/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Duntov1967

I just ordered a Whipple 2.9L supercharger so my intake setup is for sale. Included is an L92 truck intake, 8.1L marine injectors, 92mm F.A.S.T. DBC throttle body, EV6 to Mini-tech ll harness adapters, MAP sensor and Evap. solenoid. The fuel rail has been modified so it can be used on return or returnless fuel systems. Please note that the IAC and TPS sensors are not included.

This setup has only been run since May (about 3.5 months) so the throttle body is near new and flawless. For the sake of full disclosure, I suspect that an injector may be bleeding down so I suggest having them cleaned. $700.00 shipped for the entire setup.

http://vericom.biz/intakea.jpg

http://vericom.biz/intakeb.jpg

http://vericom.biz/fasttb.jpg

http://vericom.biz/intakec.jpg

http://vericom.biz/intaked.jpg

http://vericom.biz/injector.jpg

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Later states

L92 Truck Fuel Rails w/Evap Solenoid Modified for return or return-less: SOLD

I am going to use to the "Modified" Fuels Rails therefore I need to order the AN Fittings from the Diagram I supplied.

I got all of them from Summit including 6ft. of their Performance line. Came out to $120 shipped.

Here are the Summit Part Numbers to refresh your memory and the Part# for 6ft. of line.

SUM-240606BP PREMIUM BLK NYLON HOSE -6/6FT Quantity: 1

RUS-640850 EFI TO 6 AN FITTING Quantity: 1

RUS-640860 FUEL RAIL TO -6AN Quantity: 1

FRA-491971-BL O-RING SEAL FITTING BLK Quantity: 1

EAR-9894DBHERL FEMALE 14MM X 1.5 SAGINAW Quantity: 1

SUM-220690B -6 STRAIGHT BLACK HOSE END Quantity: 4

I will throw in the links for summit later.

Now it is off to decide what I want to do for electric fans.

Go with a flexalite kit or OEM 06 and up Electric fans. I am leaning more towards the OEM Fans since the it covers the entire Radiator. I just installed a Flex-a-lite kit on a customers car and I was very disappointed in the kit. It did not cover the entire radiator by far. Huge gaps, butt connectors with the kit weren't heat shrink ones and the kit did not include a temp sensor, just a cheap probe to stick into the radiator!

I am going to go with the OEM Rad and E-Fans...

I have a Water Pump from an 06 Sierra B/C I originally thought I was going to use the OBS Stock Rad. Should I go with 06 Rad and E-Fans as well as hoses or will any set up do?
Also better off having the 411 PCM Control the Efans or go Control Module and sensor?

idk the answer to if the rad will fit or not. i just wanted to say congrats on figuring out the fuel rail issue. its time consuming/frustrating but enough research usually solves your questions.

as far as controlling the efan, the way i try and do things is, the less parts you have, the less chance for failure. for example, the more fittings/adapters you have on fluid lines, the more chance you have for a leak, so less is better for things like that. same for electical. so i would suggest using the pcm. its already setup for that function, might as well utilize it. that would eliminate having to add another sensor and controll module. just get a relay that is hooked up for easy replacement cuz it will eventually go bad. but either way, do what is best for your situation.

keep updating with your decisions tho! we all like to see the different ways of doing things!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kewljay223

idk the answer to if the rad will fit or not. i just wanted to say congrats on figuring out the fuel rail issue. its time consuming/frustrating but enough research usually solves your questions.

as far as controlling the efan, the way i try and do things is, the less parts you have, the less chance for failure. for example, the more fittings/adapters you have on fluid lines, the more chance you have for a leak, so less is better for things like that. same for electical. so i would suggest using the pcm. its already setup for that function, might as well utilize it. that would eliminate having to add another sensor and controll module. just get a relay that is hooked up for easy replacement cuz it will eventually go bad. but either way, do what is best for your situation.


keep updating with your decisions tho! we all like to see the different ways of doing things!

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When I first bought the drive train home and I started researching, I did find a few swap threads but everyone had said parts they are using. No one listed part numbers and even better WHY they used that part.

For every part that I brought brand new including the sensors, gaskets, ls9 cam swap...I explained why and thru parts numbers in there. When this swap is all said and done...like to Revise and Re-Cap so other members dont have to read pages of my trail and error.

I ended getting the Radiator and the E-Fans just an FYI

FIRST AND FOREMOST I PERSONALLY WANT TO THANK LEXTECH! For the 411 PCM and AC Bracket. We all know he is a STAND UP GUY but I want to let him know that I do appreciate it!


Sorry for the long delay. I will not be wrenching on the truck anytime soon since I will be walking down the aisle on August 18th and then after that a little get away (not my idea) in Aruba. As soon as I get back, want to start hammering away on the truck again if I don't get screwed on the gift end and I don't spend a lot of time looking for a house or even better buying one.
She is counting down the days to the wedding and I am counting down the days till I can start working on her.

A guy at my New Job runs a body shop out of his house and we have become good work friends and has offered to help me as much as possible. As soon as I am free and clear from the wedding, I am going to trailer the truck to his garage and stripping down the firewall and front end components and doing it all in black.

I made some poor novice choices when I first got the truck years ago about drilling holes in the firewall for electrical stuff.
My plan is to uninstall it all and weld up all the holes smooth, paint and start all over again.

Is there a factory hole I can run my 0 Gauge wire thru or it has to Pushed out?