A few questions for a 5.3l in a '91

I picked up the engine and transmission today but didn't get much done, just tried to mount up the adaptor plates and ran into a little snag. The a/c bracket is in the way of the adaptor plate. I'm guessing you just trim the area of the bracket? or is there a bracket from a different model that everyone uses? I'm useing truck accessories by the way. Also how do you connect the shift cable(95-98 column) to the trans it looks like the brackets are different. One more thing is that the oil pan is not treaded for bolts from the a/c bracket so it looks like i'm free to use the ls1 pan, anybody got one laying around they would sell me?:) thanks

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A/C snag number one. Thats why I went with the top mount Sanden 508 compressor set-up. Your existing shift cable length will work, you just need the transmission cable bracket from those years truck 4L60E. And the corresponding truck shift shaft lever, that the end of the cable connects to. And the park/nuetral switch assembly, that bolts to the side of the tranny right there, in the same spot. All this is important to adjust & install just right, or your lit up position letters on your column won't be visably aligned as it came from the factory. Make sure when you slide your driveshaft yoke into the rear of the transmission for the first time, that you run your hand over the machined smooth surface everywhere and feel for any burrs or nicks, etc. and sand them smooth. If you don't, they will nick your tailstock seal and drip oil.

I got the a/c problem straight, just went by the pics in kruznlow69s thread.

Well its time for a/c snag number two. I don't have a/c lines yet to size this up but I don't really see them clearing the uca mount, I think I can redrill the mount adaptor to move the engine 1.5 -2 inches forward but will that much make the drive shaft to short? The truck is lowered 6 inches in the back so the drive shaft was already moved forward a bit so maybe this will work what do you guys think?
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Hmmmm...A/C snag number two. Try researching the A/C fittings companys, such as Automotive Air Conditioning Parts & Equipment - ACKITS.COM and Hot Rod Air - Quality Air Conditioning Systems and Component Parts etc., for adapter fittings. Maybe something along the lines of a 90 degree street elbow that will thread into the compressor first, then your new fabricated hose/fitting assemblies would thread onto those. Question? Are you going to be able to remove that compressor without lifting/removing the engine?

I think I can still remove it. I can easily get to the bolts with it in the notch and I would probably still have room to bring the compressor forward enough to get it off but once I move the everything forward I'm sure I'll have to lift the engine to pull it. Shouldn't be too much of a pain in the a$$ considering I could then actually get to the motor mount nut to take it off. I'm gonna drill and tap the plate today and hope It does more good than harm, I think its gonna cause clearance problems with the stock manifolds.

Ok well moving the engine forward created more problems than it solved so I'll just worry about the a/c next summer. It is easy to remove from a notched frame but adapting the fittings will be a nightmare if I had realized that before I notched the frame I would have spent the extra money for the sanden(sp?) seeing as its probably gonna cost just as much to get custom lines made.

Now on to the current problem. I just got my harness, pedal, and a few other items in and I've found myself wondering " Where in the hell do I ground this thing?" I mean its an all aluminum block and aluminum doesn't conduct well right?

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I ground everything on the back of the driver side head.