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Got the transmission wired up minus the PNP switch, which I have to repin a bunch of crap but it'll happen. I'm not happy about the passenger side header basically blocking the corvette servo, but hopefully we never have to take it back out. Pics of the oil pan clearance underneath, and the last pic is of the SIR system which I will explain in the next post.
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The Colorado ignition switch had to come out, as It has to be sent to Current Performance and has to be modified and they send me one back. I had a heck of a time getting the actual switch off the ignition lock, took off the airbag coil and all the necessary wiring. There is actually a large shear pin that has to be drilled out if you want to replace the ignition lock cylinder. I was going to mod the switch myself, but found out there are no wires inside of it. Instead there is a small circuit board with metal only, I am not skilled enough to do it and it's not worth destroying it either.
I bought some Scorpion 1.7 roller rockers today, they should be here tuesday or wednesday. I bought them for personal preferance, this weekend is going to be busy making header adjustments on the drivers side and moving along with the wiring...
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Here's some pics of the ignition that I finally got out, that was a major pain in the arse!! I opened the ignition switch up to find out what is being modified, and from what I saw It is 5 metal pins with a solid copper inside with contacts. I was going to buy a modified switch, but after seeing this I am just going to do a push button starter.
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Some pics of the lock cylinder, which I had to remove first before the switch would come out. The last pic is of the back side of the switch, basically all of this was a waste of time but I still figured I would share.
Ya know... The ignition switch comes out with just 2 screws. The steering wheel and lock cylinder don't have to be removed, just unscrew the 2 screws, turn the key to the run position, and the switch comes off.
I've done it several times, it takes about 5 minutes.
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Well while waiting for my parts and money, I ordered a window tint kit off of ebay for $20.00. All I can say is this is the best $20.00 I have ever spent. Extremely easy to install, I opted to remove the glass from the truck to make life easier. I made a mixture of warm water and baby shampoo, wet the glass down and layed the tint on the window. I took a squigee and pressed all the water out, and I let them set over night. They came out 99% perfect no runs or air bubbles, not bad for my first time!!!
CP Wire Did that method work for you on an 04'? I know you mostly do newer trucks which Is why I ask. I followed my Mitchell manual and it said to remove air bag and coil as well as steering wheel, then there was a small pin that I had to push in while pulling the switch outwards.....
Yep, all colorado's, '04 and up.
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Well today I got my Scorpion roller rockers, although I ordered them in red I got the blue one's. :( I know it doesn't matter, but still...........Tomorrow I'm going to put them on, so until then..........
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Got the roller rockers all setup and ready to go, they are sitting right where they should be on the center of the retainers. I wasn't sure that the stock length pushrods were going to work, but from what I see it looks good. I also got my steering wheel done, along with various other pieces. The steering wheel is a soft foam, which Is why I use BULLDOG adhesion promotor before I paint interior pieces. They still need wet sanded and clear coated.
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Got the windows back in, and I am extremely happy with how they came out. I stopped at NAPA today and got my metripak terminals, I am short 5 of them, so I have to go tomorrow and get some more. First pic is of the C2 fuse box connector, well it's actually out of a 2001 S10 but still the same thing. Pics of my three bundles of wires all marked and ready to go. Still trying to get the pnp connector, the chevy dealer is retarded and can't find it. He told me I have to buy the whole engine harness, I just laughed.......
This weekend I am going to some swap meets to set up and sell stuff, so the truck will have no more progress till next week. Until then............
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I went to Summit Racing yesterday, and I purchased some more AN fittings for the transmission cooler. -6 an 4l60e fittings for the transmission case, and 45 degree swivels coming off that to clear the transmission tunnel. I had some steel braided line left from the fuel line, also got a 26,000 gvrw cooler with electric fan from JEGS for $99.00.
We need a Summit Racing store here in TX! I would hate having to pay tax on the parts I buy there, though. 8.25% tax not paid usually offsets the cost of shipping to me.
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Today I had a hell of a time with the braided line, the guy at Summit told me to wrap the line in electrical tape tightly and that would keep it from unraveling. Well that's a pain in the butt, and today I found a new solution that works!!! I took a hose clamp and tightened it down on the hose where I wanted to cut, and then I used a cutoff wheel and cut it flush with the clamp. Then I took the fitting and pushed it up against the clamp, I slowly loosened the clamp and pushed the fitting on and it worked perfect and it's cheap!
Wiring the fuse box in progress, painted the top and bottom of the fuse box to match the truck..
I light to put some anti-seize on the threads when building up hoses in case I ever redo the hose or want to reuse the fittings at another time. Looks like it's coming right along. :thumb:
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Picture of the repainted fuse box cover, gonna have something airbrushed on it just don't know what?? One of the transmission cooler lines done, had to order more line today so I could make the other one. The transmission cooler I mounted on the underside of the front passenger side of the bed, because of how I am going to route my exhaust I couldn't put it any closer. I am going to wire it with a relay and inline fuse, just haven't determined how yet lol!!
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Thanks redheartbeat for the compliments, It really means a lot seeing how many posts you have.... The anti-seize is a great idea, I will start doing that from now on.
My temporary wiring job, nothing is soldered yet and I just have it in wireloom temporarily to keep it off the engine. Got the battery box back in and got my Optima battery back in, I had to put 1x1 wood shims under the battery to make the terminals come up enough to hook the battery lugs on on top the box. Once I make sure everything works I will do a lot nicer job routing and such, I have two quick questions.
I have a broken ground strap as shown in the one picture, I was going to remove it and put a 14 gauge wire with 2 ring terminals on it and attach it to the 02 sensor bracket but what does the other end hook to?? Engine or chassis?
Also the vacuum hose in the harness is broken on one end, where does this hook to? I have looked all over and cannot find either of these issues solved??
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Another picture of the ground strap, and I also got the starter permanently hooked up with wiring. Underside pictures of all the heat barrier under the truck, and wireloom wrapped in it as well. I ruined an LT1 harness from burned through wires, so I don't want to make that mistake twice.
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Picture of the fuel line running up the frame rail, the previous owner had run this engine on Mobil one the whole 100,000+ miles and the internals looked great so I decided to keep running it on Mobil One. I am using 5w-30 for the break in of the cam swap stuff, and then after that I am going to run Mobil One 10w-30. I set my engine cover on the motor just to see what it will look like, and I love how it hides the mess of wires on the top of the engine. Here are the part #'s for the transmission cooler line fittings.
4l60e fittings-925137
AN -06 hose end single sum-220690b (2 quantity)
AN -06 flare union (2 quantity)
AN -06 45 degree swivel (2 quantity)
Until next time, I'll be wiring away!!!
where are you located in Ohio?
Medina, Ohio
Well not going to be working on the truck this week probably, 12 hours shifts at work to get more money for my swap!!
oh thats cool, your only a hour or so from me Have to meet up at truck fest or something like that
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In progress pictures of the header for the drivers side, basically we are cutting several inches out of two of the primaries and rewelding them back in place to make them fit. Its better than beating the hell out of them to where they don't flow right, got the other transmission cooler line done. Until next update!!
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First pic is of the drivers side floor pan where it joins the firewall, had to ding it in for header clearance.
Second pic is of the PNP switch, I bought a 04' Colorado PNP bare connector from the dealer for $4.90, and I used the metripak 280 series terminals to pin in the LS1 wires into the according positions.
Third pic of the fuse box is the temporary setup with fuse taps just to get power, once we get the engine running then I will go back and permanently wire them in. I got those fuse taps off ebay, 50 for $9.99 and they work really well.
Fourth pic is of the 3/8" hole I drilled in the firewall to run a bunch of wires inside the cab, basically wires for my aftermarket gauge pod I'm going to buy and serial data wire and cruise control wires.
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Some of the wires I am not using were for VATS, and EVAP system. I did not remove them from the harness, I prefer to leave the harness in tact.
Got the steering column back together today, the worst part was getting the multi function lever and circuit board back into place. That was horrible!!
I still have to buy a flexible dipstick for the transmission, as the oem one will not work with the headers and it would have to be bent so much it would probably kink it. And I still have to buy the trasnsmission fluid, which I am sticking with the Dexron 3.
I only have the wires inside the cab to deal with, which is maybe 8 at the most. I also have to make up two 24" extensions for the 02 sensors, so they can reach the headers. Until then.............
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Here's some pics of the radiator and electric fans all mounted up in the core support, I made some brackets to hold it in place. The 98-02 F body fas work nicely behind the Colorado radiator. On a side note I got all the wiring done minus 1 or 2 wires which are for my aftermarket gauge pod I'm going to buy, we tryed to start it but the security light came on steady and nowwe have no fuel! I am goingto buy HP Tuners to get rid of the VATS on the Colorado and the Camaro.
Can the HPTUNERS take VATS out of the body control module, because on mine that's how it's setup.
Ignition-BCM-PCM-Fires injectors and so on...
Well It will be awhile till the next update because I'm leaving today to go to Canfield swap meet, and hopefully I sell enough to buy the HPTuners. Until then......
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It's been a while, but here's a small update. My friend Larry cut and welded the header to make it fit, and then he put it in a press and squished the one primary to clear the steering shaft. Plenty of clearance now, both headers are on now. I am going to buy HPtuners next weekend, as that is what is holding me up right now. Until then..........
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I bought a push button starter for my truck, as I am bypassing the BCM for this among many other reasons. I got it for $30.00, It is made to fit into the cigarette lighter but I couldn't do that as It is too low on the dash. So I decided to pull the center dash, and I put it in the blank panel next to the traction control button.
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I used a dremel to drill the hole out, and the button had to be trimmed down to fit into the factory bezel. All In all I am very happy with this product, It included a relay and all necessary wiring. Now I have to use the factory key to turn the ignition to "ON", and then push the button and hold it till it starts.
So far all the lights work, windshield wipers work. Wednesday I am going to Summit Racing to buy HPtuners so until then................
Were did u get the start button from?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380246357496...84.m1497.l2649
Here's the link from the seller I bought it from, he is in the United Kingdom and it only took about 10 days to get it. Normally I do not order overseas electronics, but I figured I would give it a try. The only thing I wasn't happy with was it's not lighted, I thought it was when I bought it lol!!! There are some lighted one's on ebay, and even some LED one's but they are from Hong Kong and I've gotten burned too much from that area.
I wired the relay with the starter solenoid wires, one ground, ignition wire, and two wires to the switch. He gives good instructions too...
Nice. Been looking for one for a while for my 91 Camaro since the last owner screwed the harness up pretty bad. Thanks
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So while we are stuck doing nothing we made some more modifications to the truck, we took some 4" fog lights which used to be behind the grille and we mounted them under the rear bumper as a set of reverse lights. We tied them in with the backup lights, they are 55w each so they should help with backing up.
When we were at the swap meet we came across a used set of 88-98 Silverado body lift gap guards for $10.00, I took a chance and bought them for the Colorado. I trimmed them with a pair od scissors and cleaned them up nice, as you can see they fit pretty good. I was having a hard time spending $140.00 for the one's for the Colorado.
Major Update!!!!
Okay well I got my HPtuners thursday, took 4 hours to install on my computer as it needed a bunch of updating. Plus Bill from HPT had to help me through my serial number problem, as Summit Racing never sent me an email or letter. Friday I tryed to scan the truck, and the truck locked up with the VATS problem. Well the BCM set a U1000 code which is bad, basically the serial 2 data wire which controls everything on the Colorado!! I searched for DAYS, talked to the Chevy dealer and they had no idea what the hell I was talking about. Basically I learned a lot just by reading my manuals, as no one has ever gone this route with a Colorado.
I ended up unwiring the LS1 wiring, and I put the 5 cylinder harness back in and tried it again, still no dice!! I sat down and started looking at how the serial 2 data wire was routed, It runs to DLC, BCM, PCM, SIR module, Ignition etc. Then a light bulb went off!! 1807 is the Serial data circuit, well since we had the front end off It dawned on me that the airbag sensors were disconnected. We hooked all the airbags back in, and PRESTO!!! Communication with the chassis!!!!
I disabled VATS, then I removed all the 5 cylinder stuff and connected the LS1 back in. The only wire I have connected into the Colorado wiring is the Serial 2 wire, all the other LS1 wires are all by themselves almost stand alone. This was my choice ultimately, as I recieved several emails telling me this could not be done.....
Then I had no communication to the LS1 WTF!!!! I sat down and read and read some more, then I started checking all my hot and ground wires. I had no power or ground to the LS1 computer, so to the fuse box I went. The C2 connector I made up was not fitting correctly, so I made the decision to depin it and wire it directly to the bottom of the fuse box (temporarily)).. I am going to have to buy the correct Colorado connector, so once I got all that done I had the LS1 computer powered up. Hooked up HPtuers again and scanned it, PRESTO!!!!! It read it woooohoooo!!! I tuned out VATS on it also.
I have it all hooked up temporarily now, BCM is communicating with the LS1 computer. No codes either, gauges seem to work as well. Fuel pump worked as It should, so we hooked up the gas line to the fuel rail and got in and cycled the ignition to prime the fuel pump. Well I heard hissing almost like air coming out of the rail, I looked over to the passenger side and one of the injectors was just blowing gas out of the top of it. I am going to take the fuel rail out tomorrow and check it out, I am thinking the o-ring is leaking or I pinched it upon reinstallation. I ordered an injector rebuild kit from Rock Auto for $14.88 shipped, should be here wednesday.
Until then....................
Update!!!
Got the o rings on the fuel rail, got everything plugged back in. So I turned the key on, and pushed the starter button and about 1 second later it FIRED!!!!!!!!!!!
She runs, but I had to shut it off right away, because there was no fluid in the transmission and nothing up front is hooked up. I am so excited it's not even funny!!! This weekend I'm going to try and do a lot to it, as I have a 4 day weekend.....
Congrats! Me personally wouldn't of even turned it over with out fluid in trans. Just me though.
Alright well we are stuck on the p1626 code right now, even though I have ALL the VATS stuff tuned out, the fuel injectors are still being cut out by that Vats stuff!!!!!! I am going to order a VATS bypass module this weekend, It basically is for an engine swap where the BCM is not being used. I am buying it from Hawk's 3rd Gen parts, I had good luck with him before on other stuff....
Until then, we wait.......................and wait.
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Update!!!
Well my bypass was supposed to come today, but the USPS said it was never recieved. Instead of wasting the day I cleaned up the wiring, and got it routed the way I wanted it to be. Just some pics of the wiring harness layout, Instead of running it across the firewall I decided to run it low on the motor. Cleaned the engine bay with 409 again.
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More pics of the cleaned up wiring.
I also did some more wiring to the transmission, I had originally not hooked up the range wires as I didn't know where they went. After hours of research I figured it out, tomorrow I will see if anything has changed with it. I had the transmission stuck in 3rd gear, and the solenoids were not engaging when prompted. Still waiting pn the VATS bypass, until then!!!
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4l60e-range wires hooked up correctly into PNP, kept blowing ignition fuse 15amp. Unplugged the range wires, and problem went away but transmission still shows 3rd gear even though it's clearly in park.
I got the VATS bypass, wired it up and the truck is up and running. I am extremely happy with this now, wires are 100% soldered up and solid.
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Went to Summit Racing yesterday, and bought some more stuff for the money pit. I ordered a remanufactured F-body power steering pump from Rock auto which included the reservoir for $92.00, and bought the pulley new off ebay for $49.00. Got 6ft of 5/8" and 3/4" heater hose for $10.00, PCV valve and a T for $5.00.
I am not reusing the factory windshield washer bottle, so I am going old school on this. I bought a glass quart bottle of PBR and a universal windshield washer pump, I am going to wire it up off a switch inside. I hardly ever drive the truck in the rain anyways, this is just something a little different I wanted to do.