95 RCSB to LQ4/4L60e

hey whaats the part number for those fans? what size are those?

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Originally Posted by myzterray

nice build...quick question..why did you put the sensor adapter for the coolant temp in the rear of the block. why not use the one in the front drivers side.

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Because the one for the LS PCM is in the front Driver's side, So the one on the right rear is for the gauge only

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Originally Posted by Botlfed

glad all these projects are going on, im about to start on a buddies truck 94 model, even though its not my truck i gotta be schooled, im supposed to be the guy that knows whats going on :LOL:

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This isn't mine either... But I will be doing my 89 K5 Blazer soon enough.

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Originally Posted by DINK

lookin good!

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Thanks... It's getting there. Just got the fuel pump back in. Now I just need to finish up the wiring.

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Originally Posted by myzterray

hey whaats the part number for those fans? what size are those?

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They're from Northcoast Performance 16" Universal Fans Part Number #2054S

Does anyone know which wire to hook up the TCC/Brake to?? And I can't find the wire for the PRNDL/Neutral Safety Switch

Nice thread and good pics!

2 questions for you if you have completed them already...are you running stainless braided fuel or tranny lines?

If so, what fittings did you use because I am really confused on what to use for hooking up braided line to the tranny from the radiator and cooler.

I already had braided lines on my fuel setup before, I just need to figure how to connect it to the quick dissconnect that is on the fuel rail.

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Originally Posted by BlueMagicSS

Does anyone know which wire to hook up the TCC/Brake to?? And I can't find the wire for the PRNDL/Neutral Safety Switch

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Down at the brake pedal is a switch, one of the leads on the switch will have 12v positive when the vehicle is running and when you press the pedal it turns off or loses voltage. That is where we typically hook up the wire. You can put it on a 12v switched wire that is always on when on. Advantage of the brake pedal switch is it unlocks the convertor when you're braking.

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Originally Posted by HPICamaroSS

Nice thread and good pics!

2 questions for you if you have completed them already...are you running stainless braided fuel or tranny lines?

If so, what fittings did you use because I am really confused on what to use for hooking up braided line to the tranny from the radiator and cooler.

I already had braided lines on my fuel setup before, I just need to figure how to connect it to the quick dissconnect that is on the fuel rail.

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No, not using stainless lines, Using stock lines and adapters to make it work, I'll post pics up in a couple hours. Stock Trans lines from the LQ4 just using rubber hose at the ends, again, will post pics.

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Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat

Down at the brake pedal is a switch, one of the leads on the switch will have 12v positive when the vehicle is running and when you press the pedal it turns off or loses voltage. That is where we typically hook up the wire. You can put it on a 12v switched wire that is always on when on. Advantage of the brake pedal switch is it unlocks the convertor when you're braking.

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Cool thanks I will look for that wire now.

Nice looking swap!

Starts up but immediately dies. Almost like VATS is shutting it off. only idles for a second at the most. No matter if I hold the throttle or not. Any suggestions?

I've swapped out the PCM with another one, I was told one was tuned out. The other PCM had no spark, so I put back the original one that I was using.

Checked codes, getting U0107 Pending and 2 other O2 sensor codes (the Precat 02 on the driver's side is the wrong connector so it's unplugged)

I know that there is no fitting on the intake for the fuel pressure regulator so I know it's getting full pressure from the pump, but I don't think it would be enough to completely choke out the engine that much.

Any ideas?

-Matt

Fuel Pressure is 50psi KOEO, 58psi KOER but doesn't stay running