Printable View
Well last night i finally found a couple hours to work on it, so the motor came out AGAIN ! ! ! and the motor mount/crossmember was moved back 3.75 inches and down almost 2 inches, which means...yes...my hood will fit just fine!! Today the radiator goes in and i need to get some fuel lines made...we'll see what happens!!
dude! thats getto... dont put a sensor on the pinion. thats the first thing to get torn off. i have a 40 tooth clamp on ring for the 700r4 output shaft you can have it, then you can find some way to get a sensor on it. it was for the swap i just did and for some reaseon it didn't fit the 4l65 shaft?????? i needed a different one.
it slides on and tighten up with a clamp nut. pm me your address and i will send it to you.
your new reluctor ring is on its way. get a gm speed sensor from some newer transfer case. take the tail housing from that case (aluminum, not magnisium) cut the sensor mounting hole out of it and them bore a hole into the 700 adapter to weld the sensor hole into the 700 adapter, thats where the sensor ring will clamp to is the under the adapter. make sure there is only about .020" gap. too much and it wont work.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(hummertech @ Oct 13 2006, 10:26 PM) [snapback]69353[/snapback]</div>Sweet, thanks man!!Quote:
your new reluctor ring is on its way. get a gm speed sensor from some newer transfer case. take the tail housing from that case (aluminum, not magnisium) cut the sensor mounting hole out of it and them bore a hole into the 700 adapter to weld the sensor hole into the 700 adapter, thats where the sensor ring will clamp to is the under the adapter. make sure there is only about .020" gap. too much and it wont work.
[/b]
I recieved my 40tooth clamp on reluctor ring friday...thank you hummertech!! looks like i finally get some time to work on it this weekend!! maybe go vroom for the first time?? nah...pretty sure that won't happen.
Where have you guys gotten your exhuast flanges from? From what i've found, the factory Y pipe (with cats) had the flanges (i'm talking about the triangular bolt patter with large hole in center for exhaust pipe), they had the flanges molded into the ends of the pipe, and said they had to sell me the entire Y pipe....well, i don't care about cats, so i'm not doing that, i was gonna have my buddy mill me some custom ones...what have you guys done?
Go to a speed shop that specializes in GM trucks and Fbodies. Their scrap piles are usually full of ypipes after installing headers.
Cats? What are cats? :eek: I don't have no stinkin' cats! :laugh: I also have a stock y-pipe with gutted cats. :cool:
Sent this to my buddy to make for my exhaust flanges....sweetness
http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/9...flangesnk7.jpg
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Chuck21387 @ Sep 24 2006, 11:27 AM) [snapback]66294[/snapback]</div> Hey 1BADC10, i posted this pic quite awhile ago...well, i hooked up power today...and the top orange wire has 12v battery....any help? I don't want to give anything else power until i know what's going on here....earlier in this thread you said that you thought i was correct in labeling this picture...but like i said, when i gave the battery cable 12v, this top orange wire has 12v....was that your 12v input into your fuse block maybe? If so, then i believe my "Battery 12v" white/red wire should now get 12v ignition instead of 12v battery....and black still ground, and the pink...i need to measure that one...see if its a 12v output on ignition for fuel pump
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Chuck21387 @ Jan 1 2007, 10:02 AM) [snapback]77966[/snapback]</div>Sorry for the late response... I'll try to remember to look at my pinouts when I get home. The proxy server here at work makes 'net surfing during lunch kinda sluggish. Late lunch, but I gotta get out in the field now. I'll post up the schematic later this evening.Quote:
Hey 1BADC10, i posted this pic quite awhile ago...well, i hooked up power today...and the top orange wire has 12v battery....any help? I don't want to give anything else power until i know what's going on here....earlier in this thread you said that you thought i was correct in labeling this picture...but like i said, when i gave the battery cable 12v, this top orange wire has 12v....was that your 12v input into your fuse block maybe? If so, then i believe my "Battery 12v" white/red wire should now get 12v ignition instead of 12v battery....and black still ground, and the pink...i need to measure that one...see if its a 12v output on ignition for fuel pump
[/b]
-Ron
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(1BADC10 @ Jan 2 2007, 02:03 PM) [snapback]78082[/snapback]</div>Thanks, i'll try to make heads of tails when i see them...i suck at reading schematics....but thanks in advance!Quote:
Sorry for the late response... I'll try to remember to look at my pinouts when I get home. The proxy server here at work makes 'net surfing during lunch kinda sluggish. Late lunch, but I gotta get out in the field now. I'll post up the schematic later this evening.
-Ron
[/b]
And another questoin, did you use your old body style's starter circuit?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Chuck21387 @ Jan 2 2007, 02:27 PM) [snapback]78098[/snapback]</div>Sorry so late... slipped my mind when I got home. The two you labeled in the pic as ignition and 12v batt are the opposite. Look at the first pinout below:Quote:
Thanks, i'll try to make heads of tails when i see them...i suck at reading schematics....but thanks in advance!
And another questoin, did you use your old body style's starter circuit?
[/b]
C1 (1 of 2) - Right most connector in the pic
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...ta/C1Part1.gif
C1 (2 of 2)
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...ta/C1Part2.gif
C2 (1 of 2)
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...ta/C2Part1.gif
C2 (2 of 2)
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...ta/C2Part2.gif
C3 - should be the one at the bottom left in the pic (note the pink wire in pic as pin E3)
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g210/alldata/C3.gif
C4 (1 of 2) - should be the one at the top left in the pic
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...ta/C4Part1.gif
C4 (2 of 2)
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...ta/C4Part2.gif
Thanks again! I remember seeing those once and couldn't make heads or tails, but in my "speed" training, i've learned to reaed al ittle better now, so for my second question...did you use the old existing starter circuit?
i couldnt imagine a 5.3 in a wrangler! my girlfriends room mate has a buddy who lives down near galveston who has a brand new LS2 to drop into his wrangler. SICK!
Also, why did you use the E3 pin for fuel pump motor feed, when the F1 pin IS fuel pump motor feed. (on the C3 connector)
And on the C1 connector, i'm going to try to use the C10 pin for starter relay....
Summary,
Connector: C1 Pin: A6 Engine Control Module Ground = ground to body of jeep
Connector: C1 Pin: A9 Ignition Switch Output-Ignition 1 = 12v+ ignition from jeep
Connector: C1 Pin: C10 Starter Relay Feed-Coil = starter wire (grn/wht) from jeep ignition switch
Connector: C3 Pin: F1 for fuel pump motor feed = run wire back to my jeeps 12v+ wire on fuel pump
What do you guys think? Will this work?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Chuck21387 @ Jan 4 2007, 01:22 PM) [snapback]78310[/snapback]</div>Aiight... hang tight. That pic may be old. I remember using the Fuel Pump Motor Feed Pin (F1). I used that because the PCM controls the actions of the fuel pump. Give me a few, and I'll go outside and pull the block up to see. Will take an updated pic too while I'm there.Quote:
Also, why did you use the E3 pin for fuel pump motor feed, when the F1 pin IS fuel pump motor feed. (on the C3 connector)
And on the C1 connector, i'm going to try to use the C10 pin for starter relay....
Summary,
Connector: C1 Pin: A6 Engine Control Module Ground = ground to body of jeep
Connector: C1 Pin: A9 Ignition Switch Output-Ignition 1 = 12v+ ignition from jeep
Connector: C1 Pin: C10 Starter Relay Feed-Coil = starter wire (grn/wht) from jeep ignition switch
Connector: C3 Pin: F1 for fuel pump motor feed = run wire back to my jeeps 12v+ wire on fuel pump
What do you guys think? Will this work?
[/b]
Aiight, here we go...
If memory serves, that may have been a thought when I had firing issues with the swap at first. Problem was VATS. Troubleshooting the issue may have put the thought that the FP circuit was at fault b/c I was told VATS was disabled on the PCM. That could be the only explanation I could think to give for your assumption that I used E3 for the fuel pump. Anyhow... I'd have to trace E3 when the rain isn't coming down hard in BR (no garage... small carport). Can't exactly remember what I used the switched ING for. I started labeling later in the game. I'm strongly considering yanking my wiring out for a cleaner setup like Allen's, but not sold on that option just yet. Mine serves me well. If I ever upgrade to an LS2, we'll see. :devil: As for the starter, I bypassed that b/c the relay that shoves in the fuseblockslot (on top) sits in there very loosely. I think the internal connector got shoved in before it got to my possession. I pulled the pin from switched starter relay feed, and wired it directly to the starter. Speaking as an EE, the relay would be more reliable for greater chance of full voltage application, but I'm satisfied with 'close enuff for gov'ment work' (as far as this is concerned).
On to the pics:
Current fuse block setup
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...seBlock002.jpg
Even showing you my fused link (excuse the cheap watch... I am hard on those :laugh: )
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...seBlock004.jpg
Great, thanks so much! Once again...you da man!
yell if ya need something else. Always willing to help.
Next question....
We got the starter circuit (from jeep) wired up and works great, cranks fine. We thought, "oh, we'll use the Jeep fuel pump feed too" (because i wasn't getting any juice from my F1 pin....but i think that's because my ECM still has VATS on it which i imagine won't turn the fuel pump on because it thinks it's stolen.......so
Can i delete all the tranny info and VATS from my ECM? (i have a friend whose a "performance" guy with a small private shop....he can do re-programs...but hasn't done a 5.3 yet...any tips?)
Yes, since you are running a 700R4, you should reprogram the PCM to think there is a manual trans back there. You can also disable VATS while your in the PCM. BTW, even with VATS enabled the PCM will still energize the fuel pump relay. However VATS will shut down power to the injectors shortly after startup if not disabled. If your fuel pump does not get power when you first turn the key, you have a problem with wiring to or from your fuel pump relay, pump or ground, not VATS
No power no pump.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(kwkenuf @ Jan 9 2007, 07:46 PM) [snapback]78963[/snapback]</div>Well, i plugged a heavy gauge wire into the F1 pin, and when the key's on, there is no juice at all to that pin....so you're saying that even WITH VATS enabled, it should still fire...maybe...Quote:
Yes, since you are running a 700R4, you should reprogram the PCM to think there is a manual trans back there. You can also disable VATS while your in the PCM. BTW, even with VATS enabled the PCM will still energize the fuel pump relay. However VATS will shut down power to the injectors shortly after startup if not disabled. If your fuel pump does not get power when you first turn the key, you have a problem with wiring to or from your fuel pump relay, pump or ground, not VATS
[/b]
Just a recap, it's a 2000 5.3 (don't know if computer programs changed...)
Here's what we have
Jeep 12v ignition going to A9 pin of C1 connector
Jeep ground to fuse block ground A6&7 pins
Motor ground cable to body ground point...
Jeep starter circuit, not using any of the chevy starter stuff....
Can't help you with the A9, C1, F1 stuff...... But yes, the engine will fire with VATS enabled, but it won't run for long.
Hot wire your fuel pump to make sure it is working. Ensure you have the injectors, ignition coils and pcm powered up. Temp connect your puel pump to known good power and ground then fire that sucker up.......
I am unsure how you are currently powering your fuel pump relay but you can use the pcm to trigger it once you finalize your wiring.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(kwkenuf @ Jan 11 2007, 12:00 AM) [snapback]79221[/snapback]</div>My fuel pump works....it doesn't shut off, and it blew out an old line...i'm using my intank fuel pump, rated at 140psi...but i wired it through the old jeep fuel pump relay, grounding out the old ECM pin so it thought it was there....but doesn't the motor have a regulator that turns the pump on and off?Quote:
Can't help you with the A9, C1, F1 stuff...... But yes, the engine will fire with VATS enabled, but it won't run for long.
Hot wire your fuel pump to make sure it is working. Ensure you have the injectors, ignition coils and pcm powered up. Temp connect your puel pump to known good power and ground then fire that sucker up.......
I am unsure how you are currently powering your fuel pump relay but you can use the pcm to trigger it once you finalize your wiring.
[/b]
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Chuck21387 @ Jan 11 2007, 04:45 AM) [snapback]79248[/snapback]</div>The regulator does not turn the pump on and off, it mechanically regulates the pressure seen by the injectors and send the excess back through the return line. Do you still have the 5.3 fuel rail with regulator and return line in place or have you modified that system in some way? Anyway if you are getting pressure to the rail, verify that your injectors are not stuck by either cleaning them on the bench or tickling them individually with 12V until you can hear them click when you apply and remove voltage (remove injector connector, apply ground to one terminal, 12V to the other, remove one lead and repeat until it clicks). Did you verify you have correctly powered the ignition, injectors and computer through the engine harness? Any your crank position sensor is hooked up?Quote:
My fuel pump works....it doesn't shut off, and it blew out an old line...i'm using my intank fuel pump, rated at 140psi...but i wired it through the old jeep fuel pump relay, grounding out the old ECM pin so it thought it was there....but doesn't the motor have a regulator that turns the pump on and off? [/b]
Verify these things are operational and your engine should fire...... Have you installed a scan plug (ALDL) yet? And have you done a quick scan after a start attempt to see if you get any mal codes? all this stuff may seem like a lot but basically it is just like the old days... ensure, fuel, air and spark are available and you should get it to fire.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(kwkenuf @ Jan 11 2007, 06:56 PM) [snapback]79329[/snapback]</div>We'll check all that out...i'm beginning to think i wired the fuel pump backwards...it is a DC pump....so that's possible...Quote:
The regulator does not turn the pump on and off, it mechanically regulates the pressure seen by the injectors and send the excess back through the return line. Do you still have the 5.3 fuel rail with regulator and return line in place or have you modified that system in some way? Anyway if you are getting pressure to the rail, verify that your injectors are not stuck by either cleaning them on the bench or tickling them individually with 12V until you can hear them click when you apply and remove voltage (remove injector connector, apply ground to one terminal, 12V to the other, remove one lead and repeat until it clicks). Did you verify you have correctly powered the ignition, injectors and computer through the engine harness? Any your crank position sensor is hooked up?
Verify these things are operational and your engine should fire...... Have you installed a scan plug (ALDL) yet? And have you done a quick scan after a start attempt to see if you get any mal codes? all this stuff may seem like a lot but basically it is just like the old days... ensure, fuel, air and spark are available and you should get it to fire.
[/b]
and yes, i'm using the stock fuel rails and regulator. I need to check the injectors...what's a Scan Plug? ALDL?
And i've wired the under hood (5.3) fuse block for ignition power, do i have to splice into the computer harness itself to give it juice too?
And all sensors (including CPS) are still hooked up through the factory harness
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Chuck21387 @ Jan 12 2007, 12:20 PM) [snapback]79447[/snapback]</div>ALDL is Assembly Line Diagnostic Link... The OBDII port you hook up to when scanning your computer for check engine codes. It's handiny to have hooked up when doing swaps of this nature...Quote:
We'll check all that out...i'm beginning to think i wired the fuel pump backwards...it is a DC pump....so that's possible...
and yes, i'm using the stock fuel rails and regulator. I need to check the injectors...what's a Scan Plug? ALDL?
And i've wired the under hood (5.3) fuse block for ignition power, do i have to splice into the computer harness itself to give it juice too?
And all sensors (including CPS) are still hooked up through the factory harness [/b]
If you have an under hood fuse block from the same application as your harness you should be good, but its always a good idea to break out the schematic and ensure those key circuits are powered. Disconnect your PCM and check voltage from fuse to engine harness pcm connector pin... Grounds are critically important also.... You mention that you have wired the underhood fuse block for ignition power,... how is the rest of the block powered? The PCM needs constant power also. It will start without it, but it's kinda like disconnecting your battery every time you turn the ignition off. If you wired in your fuse and relay block following factory schematics I'm sure thats not the isssue however.... You did didn't you?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(kwkenuf @ Jan 12 2007, 07:58 PM) [snapback]79471[/snapback]</div>the factory 5.3L fuse block is powered by the main batter cable. Which i did hook up to the positive battery terminal...the Fuse block is only grounded through a couple pins though...we thought that with that much current (the battery cable) there should be a large ground cable somewhere too....but none that we could find...Quote:
ALDL is Assembly Line Diagnostic Link... The OBDII port you hook up to when scanning your computer for check engine codes. It's handiny to have hooked up when doing swaps of this nature...
If you have an under hood fuse block from the same application as your harness you should be good, but its always a good idea to break out the schematic and ensure those key circuits are powered. Disconnect your PCM and check voltage from fuse to engine harness pcm connector pin... Grounds are critically important also.... You mention that you have wired the underhood fuse block for ignition power,... how is the rest of the block powered? The PCM needs constant power also. It will start without it, but it's kinda like disconnecting your battery every time you turn the ignition off. If you wired in your fuse and relay block following factory schematics I'm sure thats not the isssue however.... You did didn't you?
[/b]
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Chuck21387 @ Jan 15 2007, 06:39 AM) [snapback]79827[/snapback]</div>Powering your fuse block from the battery is fine for the "always hot" circuits but ensure you have provided a switched source of power for the injectors, ignition, fuel pump and whatever else is in that box that should be on switched power (hot in run and start) Did you verify that you have power to all those switched circuits? Besides the grounds associated with the relays, the fuse block does not get a dedicated ground cable but you need to ensure you have a large capacity ground path from battery to engine, frame and body. Also ensure that your factory harness ground connections are attached to a known good ground.Quote:
the factory 5.3L fuse block is powered by the main batter cable. Which i did hook up to the positive battery terminal...the Fuse block is only grounded through a couple pins though...we thought that with that much current (the battery cable) there should be a large ground cable somewhere too....but none that we could find... [/b]
So, talking to my dad, i was telling him that my PCM might be toast and that i'd have to buy one from Nelsons for some cash....to which he said, "let me check around work and see if someone can bench test that thing" well a week went by and he got a couple names, but no real luck.
Then i went out to dinner friday with some friends and a friend came in town from my home town, Kokomo, IN.
He works at the same place my dad does, both in engineering...
Delphi Electronics is the company, maybe some of you have heard of it? Well i asked him what plant he worked in and then told him what i was looking for, and he said, "lets got get your PCM and have a look at it" We grabbed it and he said, "oh yeah, i designed the assembly line for building this PCM, i know where the cubical is to the two guys that programmed that PCM, i walked by the desk on the 3rd floor this afternoon where they bench test these things....tell me what you want and i'll get it done for you!" So needless to say, hopefully i'll have a pretty sweet tune from the original guys who tuned the PCM's for the 5.3L.....i'm so happy!!
Delphi... mmm, nah... doesn't ring a bell. LOL
Sike! Had a couple fellow grads that worked for Delphi out of college. My cousin's roommate was from Kokomo. Wouldn't mind working for them myself, but with below-zero temps, my wife would divorce me first.
Hope it works out for ya. Good to know a few people, isn't it??
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(1BADC10 @ Jan 22 2007, 02:01 PM) [snapback]80747[/snapback]</div>Kokomo and Below Zero do NOT go hand in hand....especially this year....yikes it's warm out there, and the rain instead of snow....rivers are all up...kinda sucks really...oh, and it's Kokomo Indiana...there's NOTHING to do in K-town...I live an hour West in Lafayette and i feel like there's nothing here to do!! Except that the Badlands Off Road park is only 30 minutes from my house...Quote:
Delphi... mmm, nah... doesn't ring a bell. LOL
Sike! Had a couple fellow grads that worked for Delphi out of college. My cousin's roommate was from Kokomo. Wouldn't mind working for them myself, but with below-zero temps, my wife would divorce me first.
Hope it works out for ya. Good to know a few people, isn't it??
[/b]
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Chuck21387 @ Jan 22 2007, 01:16 PM) [snapback]80750[/snapback]</div>Not what my friend Jade Jackson said when she worked there for over 2 years. Of course, she said it felt like that when the cold wind would blow. She took another job in the DFW area. She told me that she couldn't take it up there being a Southerner. :laugh:Quote:
Kokomo and Below Zero do NOT go hand in hand....especially this year....[/b]
So the Delphi guys were no help, they said it would take too much work to get that PCM where i wanted it....so no-one wanted to take on the "government project"....so Nelson!! I need your help!!
So now that i've bought a house, moved in, fixed all the major issues, it's time to move the jeep over to the new garage :-) and order my new PCM from allen. So i'm shipping mine out monday !!
<< I'm totally excited about getting this thing back on the trail!
SHE LIVES ! !! ! Went out last night, hooked up some wires, and vroom! she fired!! after 3 years of sitting....
now she needs an oil change, new thermostat (just in case), anything else i'm forgetting? other than a cooling system...
how'd you guys hook up gauges? did you put old style on or use signals from the PCM or something?
Congrats! Got a video or more pics?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(twobit @ Jun 29 2007, 10:30 AM) [snapback]98118[/snapback]</div>I'll take some photos tonight for ya, nothing fancy....Quote:
Congrats! Got a video or more pics?
[/b]