Ohhh yea He's a shift lead at Corrosion now.
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Ohhh yea He's a shift lead at Corrosion now.
He was my rater in South Korea, I was still Sheetmetal back then, tell him SSgt Hebert said hello.
Alright!!! It's like Christmas in my garage but better! This is one delivery truck, and my online tracking numbers say I am expecting one more truck today from another carrier.
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Got everything from Rock auto. Also bought new 17" wheels from katana for the truck which should be here Monday. The fuel filter and fitting came from speedway motors, they offer an easy Ls1 conversion/adapter for 70 bucks.
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Looking good! I've got everything but my AC bracket from Holley. Just started today, by the end of this weekend I'm hoping to have the cam and valvesprings in, and the engine cleaned and painted.
Alright, more progress and new parts. New wheels on new rubber, 265/70 R17
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Got the fuse block wired and relays wired, along with the OBD2 port. A couple of wires left to tie in and I can put the loom cover back on.
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Old seat, now a shop couch.
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New seats out of a 2008 Silverado Z71.
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New fuel pump installed into the tank and tank back on the vehicle along with the new Dynamax 3" dual exhaust installed.
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New Reese towing packing installed, this actually did not require any drilling.
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New headliner I will be installing this week.
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Overall it's been a productive week so far.
How's the clearance between the steering wheel and your chest, as well as behind the seat? Would I be able to fit my subs back there? Also, how hard was it to mount them?
They fit alright, you will have to make adapters and drill hole to make them fit, but they are not too hard to get in. My speaker box in actually behind the seat in the picture, I have two 10's. I am waiting on a new steering wheel, but without the wheel installed it sits as far back as the factory in my opinion. I have to pull the seats back out to build a harness for them because they are power and heated. Also with motors under the drivers seat, I have to relocate my amp.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmac527
Got the power to the seat working. Also got the new headliner bonded on and installed, Duck blind Mossy Oak.
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Went to put new brakes on the truck and discovered that all my seals in the axle were trashed and that I had gotten water in the pumpkin. Ended up having to drain the chocolate milk out, replace the bearings and all seals, brakes, and de-rust and paint.
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Now that the brakes are out the way, I was able to put the new wheels on the truck.
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Put the new steering wheel in the truck. It was chrome, but is removed the chrome and painted it with a metallic Cobalt blue to match the interior.
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Your swap is coming along nicely. I'm sure you can't wait to get your first test drive.
Thanks, I am getting excited. I finished putting the clamps on everything and finally got to add all the fluids.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickeymotormount
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Hey I was wondering what hose did you use for the 05 radiator?
I'm using the same setup and I was thinking the 05 hoses would work could you tell me if I'm right before I buy them thanks
I did use the factory 05' hose on engine to radiator and throttle to engine. For the heater coil hoses, I just used my C1500 hoses. I purchased my hose from rock auto for dirt cheap. Fit great, I did have to shorten the lower hose by one inch.
IT'S ALIVE!!!!!! Well, sort of alive. I got to start it for the first time! It fired up so quickly I could not tell the engine even rolled over. It only ran for 2 seconds and then shut off, but it ran. I am assuming VATS is why. I will be sending off the PCM Monday. Finally got the filter installed. I just cut the lines installed aircraft line fittings and then flared them to fit the filter.
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I got my vacuum for the booster by bending a half inch line out of 6061 T6 aluminum to fit from the back of the intake to the booster.
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Now just trickle charging the battery to recover from checking wires all day before the first start.
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you do have some "play" in the brake booster line right? to allow for engine vibration and movement when the throttle is punched??? thats why they are usually a rubber line.
Sure do, the connector between the line and check valve is a soft flexible connector hose.
I see someone has been hitting up the scrap pile from work....lol Yeah, that's VATS kicking in. Glad to hear that it runs though.
Me too, with all this installing of parts, I forgot to add an air intake to my build. I could not find a drivers side CAI, so it looks like I will be moving the battery over to the drivers side. Got a smoking deal on this 4" Spectre cold air setup in town. Now too just move some wires and install.
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Have you moved your battery yet? If you haven't I found out that you can use those 99+ CAI w/o moving the passenger side battary tray. Look up LT1swap on Facebeook and look at his 88-94 C1500 conversion and you can see how he positioned the metal tube.
It's already moved. I am glad I moved it, it looks better and made me put some thought into making it a true functional CAI. It's airtight and draws from the factory hole through the passenger, it also gave me a place to mount my fuse/relay box, and a nice hidden channel to run wire loom through. I will post some pics of it tomorrow.
Got the computer back and she runs great!!! I got a few questions though about it. What is the voltage output for a 2005'ish 5.3 setup. The guage in the cab is reading high, very high. Also, I have no Tach, is there a trick to getting it to work? I know I have it wired in, but is the PCM signal strong enough for the 94 tac?
Using a voltmeter across the terminals on the battery it was 14 volts while running, however I have seen my gauge read much higher than that. And I'm not sure on the TBI setups, but for the vortec you have to connect the output from the computer, C2-10, to a white wire on the connector to the coil. Nothing about needing to change anything in the computer.
I was not saying change anything about the computer, I was refering to the signal generated by the computer may need to be made stronger. I believe I have found the fix.
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I will put my volt meter across the battery when it is running tomorrow morning and see what I get for voltage. I hate working night shift, by the time I get off, anything I want to do with the truck now that it is running is too loud for my wife and daughter. Should get to drive it for the first time tomorrow!
Alright, the gauge is reading really high but my meter says it putting out 13.85, so I guess I am good. Got the loom finished and under the hood cleaned up. DIY cold air intake came out great and functional.
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I had the front end off to do some wiring correctly and thought that I should paint it while it was off. I sanded all the chrome off and used bedliner for the grille and bumper. I sprayed the bow tie in metallic cobalt blue. I should have done this a long time ago. I also used one of those headlight lens restoration kits made by 3M, and it works fantastic!
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We'll I got about 4 miles on her and no codes, everything seems to be running good. I got a scare from it when I looked down at my temperature gauge and saw it said 280! I checked the coolant with a digital thermometer and watched the fans. They kicked on low when my thermometer read about 160. I am assuming that the brand factory temp sender/sensor I installed must be bad. I checked the grounds and they were fine for the sensor. It seems to read fine at first, then when it gets to the 120 mark, it seems to spike to maximum reading in the cab.
Are you using the older truck one or did you do the 3 wire LS one? You add that resistor yet, I'm curious to seehow that turns out.
I am using the factory 05' 2 wire sender for the PCM and the factory 94' 2 wire for the instrument cluster. I am going to pick up the resistor at radioshack in the morning and will post the results.
yes the resistor is the fix. worked perfect for me. i tried driving without it hooked up and the tach did nothing. pulled over, tied the resistor in and bam, tach started working like it should. and its accurate too.
That resistor did the trick. My tach works great now, now all I have to do is fix the temp sender so my guage will read correctly.
Good job. I still have not gotten my tach to work. And I set it up the way LT1swap recommend it.
Thanks Art, haven't heard from you in a long time, I was wondering if you were still even on here. I got everything working except the temp gauge, it reads about 300 degrees. I was going to pick up a new factory sensor tomorrow, but I got con'd into working weekend duty for aircraft to fly sorties on Monday, this is the downfall of living in Base housing, nearest to work gets to work. I will just get the wife to pick one up for me and drop it off at work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy-Art
Why can't I see these pictures!? I NEED to see these!!! ����
I can't see them either. It just says "sorry this person moved or deleted this image" or some shizz
seems pretty self explanatory doesnt it ?
apparently he doesn't host his pictures anymore ( deleted )