04' Colorado LS1 swap (Amy's Truck)

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I pulled the stock servo today, and I ordered a new corvette servo today. I liked what I read on this site about them, so I figured that I would give one a try.

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I took the transmission pan off today, which revieled the valve body. I got the wiring harness unsnapped, as I also purchased a shift kit for this transmission. I got the input shaft/drum today for the LS1 style swap. I will snap some pictures tomorrow, and post them when I have a chance.

I ordered the 3" body lift last night, It should be here next wednesday. I will put pictures of that on here as well, seeing as how it's necessary to the swap. Until then.....

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Here's some pictures of the inside of the transmission, I swapped the input shaft today which was fun. I also got my shift kit, but I'm returning it because it requires drilling and modification of the valve body so I am going to get one from Summit Racing which doesn't require this.

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Valve body and reverse band.

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More transmission pictures, I'm going this weekend to get a whole new front accessory drive for the engine. Until then...........

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Today was a major score for me. I got the whole front accessory drive from an 05' Silverado for $150, and he also threw in the alternator, power steering unit, and air compressor. The clutch spins freely on the ac compressor as well, I am going to sandblast the bracket and possibly paint it to match the truck or leave it raw aluminum. He also gave me the truck intake, injectors, fuel rail, and dbw throttle body for free!! Nothing broken, he was going with the LSX carbureated intake and was going to throw this all away.

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He also gave me a set of bare LT1 heads for free, don't really think I'll ever use them but they were free! He had them cleaned and checked, but then he let them sit in the garage and they rusted up. He also had a set of electric fans that he sold to me for $50, they look like they came out of a 3rd gen f-body but I'm not sure. I also bought a VEGA steering box from him for my dad for $50, which is a steal considering they are a couple hundred dollars.

I got lucky at Summit Racing today in the scratch and dent sale, I actually found a set of Doug Thorley long tube headers for LS1 swap and Current Performance mounts for $300.00!!! There is nothing wrong with them at all, they are stainless steel and ceramic coated. I am super happy today, next weekend It's going to be cam shopping at Summit racing. Until then

Shopping list for next weekend:

GMPP Hot Cam
double springs, locks, retainers, and valve seals
2,500 stall converter
SLP Oil Pump
Trick Flow stock timing set
Gaskets & miscellaneous
Stage 8 stainless header bolts (I used them on my Firebird, and have never had a problem)

Do I need to use spark plug heat shield sock things on the plug wires? Also should I wrap these headers with header wrap, I have never had a set of ceramic headers but everyone says they run a lot cooler than steel headers. Well I guess that's all for now.....

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I got the headers on today, I have them held on by just two bolts for fitment. The passenger side went in with no alterations to the headers, only had to dent in the firewall about 1/4" and that's it. The drivers side clears everything except the shock tower, so I am going to do some trimming to it, and I am also going to go with a double jointed HEIM to fix the steering shaft issue.

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More clearance pictures, no problems with the frame rails at all. Surprisingly the headers sit level under the truck, so true duals shouldn't be a problem. I put the 3" body lift on yesterday, and It actually helped me out alot more than I thought it would. I have a lot more room under the heater lines now, when before they were basically resting on the coil packs. The bellhousing lines up perfect now, and It gave me much more room for the headers. I almost forgot, In the pics the drivers side header is just hanging there, I wasn't able to bolt it to the motor yet.

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Picture of the added heater hose clearance from the body lift. I also got my oil pan the other day, It's the truck oil pan with the pickup tube and windage tray. I need the dipstick tube and dipstick though If anyone has one out of an 05' Silverado with the 5.3.

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Here's a side pic of the truck, the bed is the stock location and the cab has the 3" body lift. I really like the look of the fenderwells now, I am seriously thinking about leaving the wheel liners out so It has a Nostalgia look to it. I bought an LS1 performance book to read up on my cam decision. Until then.............

Just out of curiosity, why didn't you install the shift kit? Another valve-body out of a core tranns is only a few $$$ if you wanted to change back, which I doubt you would. I really haven't seen any kits that don't require drilling so I'm wondering which kit you ended up with.

The swap looks good, now you just need to drop the suspension to make up for the body lift.

Well got the cam out along with all the other goodies, thankfully the balancer came off without a hitch. My LT1 balancer was froze on, so this LS1 was a nice surprise when It actually came off. The timing chain however had slop in it, so that will be getting replaced as well. Next weekend I am going to finally have the money for the cam kit, so until then...




Attachment 6500Attachment 6502Attachment 6503Attachment 6504The main reason I didn't install it was because I didn't want to drill the holes in the valve body, I know that I would have screwed it up. Summit Racing carries a 2 stage B&M shift kit for the 4l60e, It doesn't require any drilling but If it wont work then I will probably end up taking it to a transmission shop to get it installed. I am actually going to leave the truck with the close to 12" lift it has now, It has a CST 5" spindle lift. It's definately not going to be a race truck, but I love the lifted look. Thanks for the compliment!!

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Well today I lifted the bed of the truck up 3" to match the cab, I left the rear bumper at the stock height to see how it would look. Basically you can see everything under there, gas tank and evap canister. I wasn't going to get the gap guards for the sides, but It is going to be a must now. The kit wasn't very hard to install at all, we have to wait to do the front once everything is done and running.

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I'm going to order the gap guards eventually, these are just some reference pics to show how much is exposed. I can almost take the sending unit out through the fenderwell the way it sits now.

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I took my exhaust off today as well, complete Magnaflow stainless steel catback. With all hangers, clamps, and so on. I never drove the truck in the snow, it is in very good shape. S/S 3" exhaust tips, the drivers side tip has light overspray from where we repainted the rear quarter. But the tips hide under the bumper anyways, or It would clean up with some lacquer thinner. I'm asking $250 local pickup only, Ohio zip code 44880.

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I decided to lift the bumper up to match the body lift, now it leaves the hitch right out in the open which leaves another problem lol! It was fairly easy to get the bumper off, but the instructions were really misleading. The one picture shows the before and after mounting bracket heigths.

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These are the stock bumper brackets that have to be removed, even though the instructions didn't show or say this!! I have a class 3 reese hitch, which posed no problem with this body lift at all. The gas filler neck and vent both had to be cut, and a piece of hose which they supplied be put in to extend the neck. This was the hardest part so far, as that hose was so tight i had to really work with it to make it fit over the metal tube.

On a side note I sold my motor today for $750.00, which I know is way cheap being that It included everything even the cats but I didn't want to die with it either. So now I can buy some more stuff for my project, until next weekend............

Alright well the guy that bought the motor also bought my exhaust, he is bringing a trailer tomorrow to pick it all up. I bought my cam kit today, I basically took a gamble because I was more and more confused the more I researched it. I am going to buy a stall converter next, and after watching a few youtube videos of automatics with stall converters I am really scared lol! One Camaro I saw had the car in reverse and it was chugging away, and the only thing I could think was how short my transmission Is going to last lol! I am already on the lookout for a spare 4l60e to do a complete upgrade and rebuild, anyways here's the link to my cam kit. Feel free to leave feedback or whatever, I was just so aggrivated I wanted to get it over with. Being a girl and asking about cams didn't go well lol!!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140684788830...84.m1497.l2649

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I got my accessory bracket and oil pan sandblasted, I'm still waiting on the cam kit. I ordered the serpentine belts, head bolts and gasket kit and oil pump through RockAuto. I also took the transmission shop to have them look at it, and found out that 3rd and 4th gear clutches were on there way out. I had them replace the clutches and put new seals throughout the transmission, until next time!!

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Got all my new gaskets from Rock Auto, new head bolts also through Rockauto. I also got the oil pump from them, It's a Melling brand. I also bought the Gatorback serpentine belts, $10.29 for the air conditioning belt and $19.56 for the 05' Silverado serpentine belt. I am also going to buy the silverado water pump, since thanks to this forum I found out I can't run mixed front accessories.

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Alright well I finally got my cam, double springs, pushrods, retainers, locks and valve stem seals. It's all Lunati stuff, Voodoo cam. Pics of the cam spec card, and parts. Stock retainer next to the new retainer, shiny one is the stock one. Fuse box is coming together.

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Today I put the cam and accessories back into the motor, torqued the heads down. The lower timing gear was a real pain to get off, 3 jaw puller modified failed to get it off and eventually I just cut it off with a cut off wheel and a little bit of tapmatic. The new Lunati timing set is a double roller, which I know is going to need some modifications to make it fit. I am doing research to find out exactly what I have to do to it, anyone know what exactly I have to do? The lower sprocket has all kinds of marks for advancing or retarding the cam and crankshaft, I am going to call Lunati tomorrow to find out exactly what that's all about.

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Got my auxillary fuse box done!! I am really happy with it, If you would have seen it before it really looked bad lol! I tested it today, and everything powered up good. Until next update...............

unless you're going to degree the camshaft in with a degree wheel and indicator, install the lower gear at zero and call it good. Surely your timing set came with some oil pump spacers to move it out a bit. You have to clearance the front cover by test fitting it over the pump and grind away material unti the cover fits flush without a gasket. I use playdoh on the surface to find where it's too tight or just watch for obvious rub marks when you're rocking it back and forth. Personally, I would send it back and get a single row timing change but that's just me.

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I appreciate the help redheartbeat, I took your advice about the playdough and believe it or not the Lunati timing chain did not rub on the timing cover. I put the shims behind the oil pump, and I had to grind down some of the oil pump bolts but that was it. I called Lunati earlier today and asked about the timing, after about 20 minutes of talking to a tech. I decided to advance it 2 degrees, I know I probably won't notice anything but I learned something new today which is good.

I also put on the front accessory bracket for fitment, and found out I am going to have to clearance it in quite a few spots but that's okay I guess. I also took off the F body water pump, as I have to buy the truck water pump to line up with the new bracket.

I have another small question though??

I have the 05' Silverado alternator which is 145 amps, but the Camaro alternator is less amps then that. Can I use the truck alternator, or will the 2000 camaro ecm wig out with the different amp rating??? I have heard horror stories of guys running larger alternators on stock vehicles and having problems with the computers.

Until next update...................

Major snag!!!!!!!!!!

Well all I can say is the truck bracket is not gonna cut it, basically after I modified it to fit and clear the intake it still has major problems. Major one being it basically has no room to hook up the TPS sensor, I think people who have swapped these must have been using the DBW throttle body. Now I am looking for F-body accessories for the front of the engine, alternator bracket, power steering bracket. I have the A/C bracket, and water pump for the f-body. I test fitted my ZOOPS cover on the engine with this bracket, and basically I would have to cut at least 25% of the front right corner off to clear the alternator. Until then............

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I got the engine put all back together today, except the oil pan is not torqued because I am still looking for the two front bolts. I also bought a new starter and a heat shield, which I got for $1.00 at a swap meet. These are the electric fans I got for $50.00, they are out of a 82-92 F-body and they fit the Colorado radiator perfectly!!!

I also bought a 2800 stall converter today for $249.00, It is remanufactured but I couldn't spend $700 on a new one. If anyone has those 2 long oil pan bolts please let me know, I will buy them off of you. I also need the starter bolts, please If you have these I really need them.

I got my starter bolts from the stealership.for only $4 a pop

Update..

Still waiting on torque converter, I also found out why the starter bolt was too short. I bought a high torque starter which takes 2 long bolts, one trip to the hardware store in the metric section and I got the bolts I needed. The dealer finally got the two oil pan bolts in today, got the motor ready to go in all except for the transmission. I will upload some pics tomorrow of it, too tired tonight been working 12 hours all week....

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I had today off so I decided to go to pull a part, and Summit Racing. I got a coolant reservoir out of a 98-04' S10/Blazer, reason being the ECM mount bolts right to the top of it and it sits on the fender pretty good. I am going to clean it up inside and out, I got it for $3.88 cap and all. Got my Stage 8 locking header bolts at Summit Racing for $41.00, and also got the starter mounted temporarly as I have to put the heat shield on it.

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While at Summit Racing today I bought some things, got the cam lube additive for the break in period. I bought a 25ft. rool of Goodyear vacuum line 5/16", for $18.00, I needed some for my S10 as well....

While at Pull a part I also got an accelerator cable out of a 98-04' S10/Blazer. This set me back $2.45, Instead of the $69.99 they wanted for the LS1 one.

I also bought my AN fittings and braided line at Summit Racing today. I got 20' of 3/8" braided tubing for $69.00, Two 3/8" push lock into AN -6 LS1 style connectors $33.00 for two of them. I also got two -6 fittings to hook onto the line itself, I am going to run this line from the fuel rail clear back to the fuel filter. I also got the AN -6 wrench, since it was only $9.99.

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I also picked up a 98-04' s10/blazer gas pedal from pull a part for $1.87, which will work with my existing studs in the firewall from the old drive by wire gas pedal. Summit Racing had there 100ft. rolls of 18 gauge wire on sale for $5.00 each today, so I went ahead and stocked up on some of that.

The last two pictures are of the major score at pull a part today, $1.33 bought me the fuse box panel I need!! When I removed the I5 harness It also required removing the C2 fusebox section, I am going to run some of the LS1 wiring into this box. The Chevy dealer wanted $133.00 for this unit, so I was totally stocked when I took this out of a 98-04' S10/Blazer and It actually fit in the Colorado fuse box! I had to trim the side a little, because it had locating ridges which weren't lined up 100% perfect.

I also bought 150 male and 150 female Metripak 18-22 gaige terminals from summit racing for $34.00, and they also included 150 insulators. They are sold under the manufacturer CASPER.

We are still waiting for the stall converter, so tomorrow we will be wiring up a storm. Until then!

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I got my coolant tank and ecm mounted today, it actually lined up with 2 of the oem holes in the inner fender and the third one I drilled. I used small diameter pvc pipe to make a spacer to mount it level, I am very happy with the whole look and functionality of this setup.

I started the wiring today and found out that I still have to use the 04' Colorado computer. The blue connector off the E40 ecm is the C1 forward lamp connector, it includes the horn, headlights, marker lights turn signals. So versus starting a total wiring nightmare for just lights I just took the easy way, the bcm is also tied into the lights.

Teaser pic of the engine hanging on the engine hoist,................so sexy!!

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When I was getting the motor lift points hooked up I chipped the valve covers all up, so I am going to have to repaint them now.

I put the thermo tec starter shield on today, and remounted the starter onto the motor.

The cardboard box full of garbage is all of the crap I cut off of the LS1 harness. I took all the old wire loom off and put all new stuff on, along with new heat barrier on the necessary parts.

I forgot to mention on the last post, to my knowledge my swap is the oldest engine swap on a Colorado so far. Everyone I have been seeing doing it is using GTO, Trailblazer or 05+ engines. This is why I will probably be the only one running dual computers.....

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While I was taking apart the harness today, I found a vacuum harness inside of the harness. One end has a 90 degree elbow on it, and the other end is broke. Does anyone know what this is and where it hooks to, I have an alldata account and I've spent all night looking but cannot find it?? One more question I have regarding the wiring, the Colorado has a PNP switch mounted on the side of the transmission as does the 00' Camaro 4l60e from what I found. The funny thing is the wiring harness doesn't have a connector for it, any ideas on this?? Is it possible previous owner could have removed the PNP switch and maybe bypassed it??

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I drilled the holes necessary to mount the drive by cable pedal, and pull the throttle cable through. I broke 2 drill bits trying to get through the double firewall, so It took quite a while to get this done. Hopefully the torque converter comes this week, ebay sucks any more with shipping!!!

Until then, Happy Easter everyone!!

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Heres some pics of the engine and transmission permanently mounted in place, got the coolant tank and ECM mounted permanently using existing holes in the inner fender.

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I found something else out while doing this swap, check out the open flywheel behind the motor !!! Well I managed to get these pieces at the dealership although they are discontinued, they're $6.84 each btw. The part numbers are 24261712, and 24261714.