Every time you pull the battery or it goes dead, do you have to re-do the security relearn procedure?
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Every time you pull the battery or it goes dead, do you have to re-do the security relearn procedure?
well ive removed the battery a number of times and i didnt have to relearn anything... ive only had to do it once and that was when i hooked the new computer thats been unplugged (from the junk yard). once i hooked it up and tried to start my car i got that yellow light (security light that is)
clint
That's good to know! I tried it on mine and it wouldn't fly but I don't have a BCM to talk to the PCM.
well what i said earlier applied to a 2001 silverado v6 -> 5.3
i also stuck a 5.3 in my 87 with a factory 5.3 harness + 5.3 comptuer with the security feature disabled.
clint
ive also removed that battery cable more than once
just ordered the tune!!!!should be here on Wednesday!!
heres my problem i got a 4.3L v6 on a 99 silverado. i brought a 5.3L v8 (junk yard it was a stolen truck insurance job)i got it complete with engine harnes and computer. i try to start it and it starts but dies immediately. and the only way it will stay on is with starting fluid. so they told me it was the computer so i went and brought another computer(junk yard) and it did the same thing. so i need some help thanks
the security relearn procedure, do a search for it. its a simple but time oriented job.
something about key on for x minutes and turn off wait turn on... like i said it its time oriented. nothing else.
once you relearn it, it will fire right up. guarenteed if its all OE like it probally is.
clint
You need to reset the security code in VATS.
1. Turn the key on to start the engine, then release the key to the ON position.
2. The security light will flash for 10 minutes then go off.
3. Turn key OFF after security light has stopped flashing.
4. Leave the key off for 10-20 seconds. Not sure if you have to wait but it won't hurt. Repeat steps 1 to 3 for 2 more times for a total of 3 attempts. The vehicle should start on the 4th attempt. This procedure takes at least 30 minutes. The battery should be fully charged and deliver more than 10 volts.
:beerchug: You know the real procedure. It doesn't always work on non-transponder vehicles though (no chip in the key)Quote:
Originally Posted by modular93fox
on for 10 minutes, when the security light goes out turn it -quickly- to the off position and right back to the run position with no delay between, 10 more minutes, off and on again, after the third 10 minute wait turb it to the off position and wait a few seconds but don't take the key out. IT should start right up.
ok..got it fired up...nelson tune did the trick...for some reason the transmission is in safe mode or whatever...it only gets 2nd and 3rd...it was fine before the swap...and it has a miss...and the check engine light is on....but...i did get to drive it today!!!
how long did you drive it for? I got some wierd stuff the first few times I fired it up and had it running. Let everything re-learn, fixed my sweet pushrod problem, and it still ran kinda bad, then one day it like did a small "choke" where it like backfired or something.. then it started running perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by banker099
lol.... odd. then the beatings began :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by duckysbht
i drove it for about 10 mins....i checked the engine light codes and this is what i got....
p0200...injector
p0740...TCC Solenoid open
P0785...Shift/timing SOL Malf
P1810...MFR Controlled Trans
however the gas gauge started working..haha
ok got the injector problem fixed....now if i could get the trans working right it would be considered a successful swap..in my book anyways.
my trans shifts from 1st to third when i first take off....after that it stays in third....if shifted manually it will go in second but will not go into first or OD no matter what...the codes i pulled are listed in the post above, they are the three bottom codes listed above....anybody have any idea???
it worked perfect before the swap
you plug everything in right?
i think so...ive got under it 3 times and checked and everything looks right
hmmmmmmmmm maybe something in the tune? you got your tune from NP right? call them up and ask up there see what they say
yeah i called him and hes looking at it he is suppossed to let me know something today
ok...just left the transmission shop and they said it was the main hot wire to the trans, he said it wasnt getting power, so i guess ill go hook a wire up to it and see if that works
checked the hot wire and it was good....any ideas?....ground maybe is the trans grounded separately, should i add a ground to the front of the trans/ back of engine or should i put it somewhere else.....i dont know what to do next.
Maybe its a temporary short. Only occurs when the wire is bent a certain way. All the grounds for the transmission go through the PCM. Have you checked that all your grounds are good and tight and that you have grounds from the battery to the engine block, frame and body sheetmetal?
yeah, check step 39 for the grounds.
4.8L to 6.0L Engine Swap for a 2001 Silverado
yeah check the wires that run to the trans. like the ones that run on the top of the shell
ok after looking a little closer today i come across something a little wierd, the trans plug (big round one) has 2 wires that are missing compared to my 4.3 harness, however there is a 2 wire plug over by the neutral safety switch, the wires that are missing and the wires in the extra plug are not the same color, could the truck i took the motor out have a different trans or did the trans change between 99 and 02? i dont know what to do now....anybody a trans specialist that knows alot...i wrote down the letters in the plug that are different between the 2 harnesses, if someone can tell me what each letter goes too maybe i can come up with a solution....or i may have to get a new harness...like i said...i dont know what im gonna do
does the 65e have a different plug/wire setup than the 60e, what are the chance the donor truck had a 65e?
no, plus will be the same between teh 60E and the 65E
so the donor truck must have had a different trans...what could it have had so i can search for a converison wiring diagram?
ok...after looking at the 4l80e it looks like thats what my harness goes to...is there anyone who makes a conversion harness to go to the 4l60e???
nelson maybe?
If it has two connectors that look like they go to a speedometer connection, its for the 80e. Nelson makes 60e to 80e adapter harnesses. Maybe they can also make it going from an 80e harness to 60e transmission. Drop them or Melissa an email and they'll let you know.
yes that is what the other plug looks like....an extra speed sensor connector...i guess i could always just put an 80e in right....im on a budget though...i just wan the 60e to shift :(
You could put a full manual valve body in it.
so...then i would have to shift it at the column...thats no good...it would get old FAST...i want to put it in "D" and let it do the work!!
You could add a floor shifter. Gives you another reason to have your hand between your gal's legs while driving down the road. :lol:
haha...i have buckets and a console sub box....nice thinkin though...lolQuote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
ok .... just called the yard that sold me the engine and they said they would send me the right harness, anyone ever changed the complete harness with the engine/trans in the truck?
no but I was thinking of doing the same thing.. only bc I want to put in a nelson harness. I think the only hard part would be running the wires across the top of the transmission. what you could do though is get like a coat hanger, and bend it to the curve of the transmission. Tape one of the connections that goes across, and just push it across.. I dunno just an idea
yeah the main trans plug is gonna be the hard one to get out and back in...just wandering if n e one else has done it?....y u want a nelson harness, whats different?
that's weird, they gave you a 4L80E harness with a 5.3? I don't believe the 80E ever went behind the 5.3 either. I trick to taking out that main trans plug is to get a hair dryer and heat up the area since the crap they put in there acts like adhesive and if you do it cold you take the risk of pulling it all apart.
cleaner looking, and this one I have now I dont like very much. stuff on it that I dont need, and some of the locking clips for the injectors are broken so they just seat on there. He makes the harness like really neat and keeps it all out of the way so you dont see wires everyhwereQuote:
Originally Posted by banker099
yeah i know how to get the plugs out of the neutral safety switch the hard part i think is gonna be getting all those trans plugs out since the engine is soo close to the firewallQuote:
Originally Posted by agreif