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I suggest you listen to a few things before you decide on anything. The install is going to be the most important thing when it comes to SQ. An improper box will cause even the best sub to sound like ass. Are you planning to go sealed or ported? How much area do you have?Quote:
Originally Posted by Z-56 Hoe
I am willing tol give up half the cargo area behind the secound row. I dont use the third row. I was leaning toward Ported.
Fi QQuote:
Originally Posted by Z-56 Hoe
Treo SSi
I can't say anything more than lo-lyf and Pl4yboy said, since, well......I read basically all the advice they give here and learn from them.
Matching the box to the subs is absolutely critical. There's like, actual math and stuff involved. If you re-use an old box for new subs and it's too small, it'll suck. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe if the box is too big you can at least compensate with filler to reduce the volume.
Ported boxes are a bit more complex as you must also worry about port size and tube length, again determined by maths. However, I think the general consensus is that the added complexity is worth it if done right.
I have a JL Midgate Stealthbox (sealed) with 2 12s in my Avalanche. I'm not sure if they're W3s or W6s, but I think it came with W6s. I'm running a 400W RMS Alpine amp to it and yeah, I'm wanting more. The 500/1 would sound good and get the job done, but if you want to do it once and be satisfied for a LONG time without feeling the need to redo it later, the1000/1 would be the way to go. I'm looking to upgrade to the 700-750W ballpark for my subs and pretty sure I'll go with amps from Diamond Audio. I might have to go higher on the sub amp to balance the sound with my door speakers, and if I do I'll replace the subs and look at DD like Pl4yboy likes.
My system in my truck was my present to myself when I came back from Iraq in '05, so we have a LOT in common heh. I didn't research beforehand like you're doing though, and I should have. Smart move on your part, man. I just went down to the stereo shop, asked "What do you think?" and had them do it. I'm going to be redoing almost everything in the next year or two as cash allows.
Petey, consider me in line behind lo-lyf for the alternator please. He gets first dibs, but if he doesn't end up taking it we can talk :)
Digitalboy0101 are You still in? thanks for the imput is there a pre-fab box made for the W-6 12" subs? ported or not? and ya'll are saying Dimond subs are good? if so what models, and RMS, are they duel voice coil?
it's all you dude, first come first serve. I am saving up for a dually I found, so i will not be buying anything else for my truck until I buy the diesel.Quote:
Originally Posted by DigitalBoy0101
I have D3 10's in mine and love them. They are 400W RMS and 800 max, they are dual voice coil. Check out diamondaudio.com for full specs on all models. The site is a little hard to navigate around but with some time you should figure it all out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Z-56 Hoe
so will this amp work for two JL W-6 12's? NEW JL AUDIO 1000/1 V2 SLASH MONO CAR AMPLIFIER AMP 1V2
JL are very forgiving speakers...meaning they sound pretty good in any box, but a custom ported box will sound the best, (assuming the builder knows how to build a proper ported box)...in the right box u will love the JL subs, and i think you should be able to get a 1000Slash for about $600 now, the price has dropped quite a bit on them. i run JL and i love them, it will be hard for me to buy anything but JL Audio from now on, sound quality is amazing! and mine is in a ported box.
did a local shop do yours? which model JL's are you running? what AMP model and what watt and RMS?
i built the box, i have w3v2 subs and a crossfire amp