Gotchya. Kyle provided the flex pipe (shown in the picture) to be used in mounting the wastegate I believe. So I'll just go ahead and use it. :)
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Gotchya. Kyle provided the flex pipe (shown in the picture) to be used in mounting the wastegate I believe. So I'll just go ahead and use it. :)
For the drain tube, drill the front of the oil pan just to the right of the crank pulley. Be sure it's angled correctly (straight forward) so the hose doesn't interfere.
Anything bigger than a 3/8 line is ok.
NAPA has the taps and drill bits you need, once you decide how big of a hole you want. Home Depot has some assortment of brass fittings as well.
Go ahead and wrap your downpipe now, it's easier. Do the manifold too, or get you some booties for the plug wires.
Make sure you have all your gaskets before you get started, or a tube of rtv (orange).
Gap plugs to .030
On initial startup, make sure the oil is coming out of the drain tube.
Tip>>Loosely assemble the hotside before tightening anything. Same goes for the intercooler side.
VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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The driver's side o2 goes in the same location it's in now.
The passenger side o2 goes in the downpipe. Choose a location that is at the same level as the driver's side and that will be good enough.
Don't do this and you're truck will run like sh!t.
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I highly suggest SD tuning for this setup. SO keep that in mind when routing the intercooler pipes and whether or not you're going to keep the maf.
If no maf = get a 2002 fbody intake air temp sensor and connector. Cut the tan and black wires on the maf (the two end ones) and take them to the new iat.
I put the iat in the EGR location if your intake has a block off plate. If not, right in front of the TB.
good luck, this is just a few of many tips you'll get.
allen
Allen,
A few questions about your comment:
1: Other than protecting the surroundings, what is the advantage of wrapping the downpipe? I had wrapping on mine and I HATED it, so I pulled it all off and have not felt any ill effects. Seems like you would actually want the exhaust after the turbo to cool to let it condense some, which I would think would create a greater pressure drop across the turbo, which is a good thing.
2: Why do the O2 sensors have to be at the same level? I have one NBO2 sensor in the crossover just below the driver's side manifold, and the other one in the log manifold on the passenger side just below the turbo flange, and have not had any issues at all.
Allen has seen improper placement of o2 sensors. IOW both in the crossover tube so the sensors are only reading the drivers side bank. I promise when this is done it will run like crap. I know this from experiance. Your o2 after the passenger side head is prolly ok cause then it can read the correct bank.
The only reason I suggest that was to keep things cool around the downpipe. For example, mic's a/c line above the downpipe was smoking after a run or two, lol.
I'm sure o2 placement similar to what I suggested is ok, I just said that to make sure he doesn't put them both in the crossover pipe.
Progress tonight after work:
Got the exhaust off. Put some elbows in the coolant lines and ran them toward the fender to get them out of the way of the turbo. I plan on putting a T in where the 5/8'' hose branches off the main supply line from the coolant reservoir and running some 5/8" hose to the turbo and then back down to another T into the first 5/8" hose mentioned (make sense? better ideas?). Got the stock manifold off and the new one bolted up (loosely). Had to bend the aluminum line coming off the AC compressor about a full inch toward the fender because the manifold was hitting it. Hopefully that doesn't make it spring a leak or something. Anyway, pics below. Hopefully I'll make better progress tomorrow:
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...y/IMG_3010.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...y/IMG_3008.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...y/IMG_3009.jpg
GET ER DONE!!!!!! nice work moze...
looking good sir your gonna love it for sure...
Nice job on rerouting the heater core hoses. :thumb: