80e Shift Kit Difficulty?

[WARLOCK]

Any one thats done a shift kit on an 80e. Tips tricks and or difficult things about it?

[RedHeartbeat]

Transgo HD kit works great. Install it per instructions. I did the vacuum modulator kit, too.

[WARLOCK]

Im just sick of driving my 60e in third.

[farmtruc]

Take your time and read the instructions exactly, then read again, and then mark off each step, it's that easy.
The Transgo HD2 for the 80e is what we use, works great everytime.

Do it and you won't swap transmissions for a long time! It'll take a lot of punishment.

[Beatdown Z]

take a quick look at these threads, might help you some : Installing a Transgo HD2 in a 4L80e - FSC Forum

4L80e shift kit - FSC Forum

[WARLOCK]

Thanks Guys I appreciate it.

[2500Ak]

Pointer eh? lets see.

The only part that can really get messed up is drilling the holes in the VB, it's really delicate. Also holes are rather irreversible.

When you go to drill the bleed valve, just make sure you drill strait down. Mine was a little off center. Still worked but I didn't like having that bleed valve going in at an angle.

Also get torlon check balls, the balls will be moving faster and hitting harder. So they'll eventually ware out the sep plate the torlon ones won't.

I had 0 trans experience when I installed this. I used a $30 set of ramps from schucks, I have no air tools, and some of that would have made this a lot easier. But you can do this with just a socket set, long flat head screwdriver, and a pair of snap ring pliers.

If you have 4wd you will come to hate that crossmember that hold the transfer case in place. And you'll need a good sized extension and a deep socket to get the nuts off the tcase.

Also you will need 2 3/4 sockets and two ratchets and a bit of flexability to get at the bolts that hold it to the frame. Best to soak the threads in pb blaster, or at least wd40 before trying to get them off.

The bolts on the valve body of 10mm heads are all the same length and easy to remove, as are the 8mm bolts that hold on the pressure switch.

The ones for the reverse servo assembly are a pain in ass though. Make sure you use nothing less than a 12 sided socket on them. (I almost stripped one with a 6)

Anything behind a roll pin or a snap ring is under spring pressure. Not a lot mind you, and they may not jump out when the pin is first pulled. So be very careful, its enough to send them flying across the room. (I spend 2 and a half hours looking for the plug for the manual valve assembly)

About the manual valve assembly, you may have to grind the AFL feed screen down with a rasp very slowly to make the new end plug. Also you can very carefully take off any burrs on the tapered plug or end plug.

Get a spare feed screen, the original may come out broken, or it may break upon removal, or it may break upon attempted installation. So do have a spare.

Get extra fluid, I had about 12 quarts lying around just in case.

Be careful not to overfill, as you add check the level often. This is rather complicated as you'll be filling through the dipstick tube and it'll have oil all over the place.

Too much fluid will foam up as it hit the rotating parts and that'll cause the trans to overheat.