I'm looking for the best 2" to 4" lowering kit. I have DJM shackles in the rear allready. Looking for something that will not cause problems. Any Ideas? Who has the best prices?
I'm looking for the best 2" to 4" lowering kit. I have DJM shackles in the rear allready. Looking for something that will not cause problems. Any Ideas? Who has the best prices?
04' silver,RCSB,volant intake,jba catback, 2" shackle kit,vette servos,
Mcgaughys drop spindles in the front, and belltech shackles and hangers in the back
1951 3100
1984 C10
Which hangers do you replace the front or the back. The fronts look like a B#%$ to get off. Do you have to drop the tank? I know when I put on the shackles I had to replace the grade 8 bolt that goes through the bushing. I had to cut the damn thing out of there. Does anybody know of a online store that is not shady and cheap?
04' silver,RCSB,volant intake,jba catback, 2" shackle kit,vette servos,
I have shackles and hangers in the rear of my truck for a 4" drop and I think it sucks. I am having to add an air lift kit just to comp for how much the lowering kit made the springs weak. Every time I hit a bump it bottoms out. I have all new springs with edelbrock IAS shocks, and no differance. On my old truck I had stock shaclkes and hangers with hotchkis 4" drop leaf springs, and I had no problems what so ever.... Just my .02 cents
1999 GMC Sierra SLE sc sb 4.8l 4L60E, Comp 1.75 roller rockers, graniaelli maf, garneaelli wires, Aem brute force intake, BBK 80mm tb, Nelson tune, 2/4 drop, Denali rims, custom grill, Denalli guages, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Tahoe E-fans, Nelson harness, and tune, McGaughy's 2" drop spindles, New matched coil springs, Air Lift rear lowerd air bag kit, Air Lift wireless remote
List of things to do
4.10 gears and a new posi, Lt headers, Cam, Heads, Intake,
I am very curious as to why the lowering kit made your springs weak, the ride isn't affected when lowering the rear with a shackle and hanger. The spring rate isn't changed. Only thing that changes is the shock angle which is borderline from the factory anyway.
Whatever kit you decide to go with, Please use drop spindles up front, it will save you money and headaches over time. Keeps you from having to deal with inner tierod failure.
I have the DJM 4-6 on mine with firestone helpers in the rear and my truck rides like a dream. I just need to get my pinion angle fixed pronto. Although I may hold off on the pinion angle until its baggin' time.
2005 black Yukon XL SLT - traded in for me wife's new Fusion (GM sucks these days)
2002 black Yukon SLT (the skinny sister)
1969 green Pontiac GTO (Layla, AKA the black sheep)
INSTALLS AND MORE.. http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...-low-life.html
Sticky/broken gauges? I can help. PM me for details.
If you c notch the frame you will have more travel. I have a c notch and a 6" flip kit and it rarely hits when im hauling stuff
1951 3100
1984 C10
The ones in the front are the hanger,the oners in the back are shackles. Yes you have to drop the tank, and yes they are a pain to get off.
The best way I found to do them is, pull the bed, get a titanium bit and drill the rivets, then air hammer them off. Not too bad, but takes some time.
2004 Gmc VHO (LQ9), AEM cai, perma cool e-fans, aero turbine 3535,obx lt's,undedrive pulley w/overdrive alt pulley, lingenfelter 160 t-stat, zippy tune, taylor 10.4mm wires, tb bypass, Transgo HD-2 c, corvette servos, sonnax accumulator piston's,2600 stall,30,000 trans cooler lowered 1.5"/2", boss 313 22's on 285/45's, rollpan,shaved tailgate w/ss spoiler, painted interior, 2 solo l7 12's,custom fiberglass box,Pioneer F-900 Navi,SSS gauges,billet shiter and pedals,hid's (low's and fogs).
Yeah take the bed off. Easier to pull the bed. While your at it, put a walbro 255 fuel pump in there
The rivets are a pain, but they will come off
1951 3100
1984 C10