anybody ever wet sanded their truck? if it works like ive heard it does id really like to do it to my truck.
anybody ever wet sanded their truck? if it works like ive heard it does id really like to do it to my truck.
ya, just start out with some 80 grit, and finish off with 200....lol... J/K... Dont do that.... Id like to know the same, my paint has some surface scratches id like gone.... ive heard of using like 1500 then 2000.... but id be scared to try it...
single digit street truck
for build info
http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...cs-garage.html
The best advice I have ever heard:... Only take B( . Y . )ST advice from someone that is CURRENTLY running a turbo setup close to, or bigger than what you want......
what are you wanting to do, level the orange peel out of the factory clear or something more severe? I doesn't stop with wet sanding, afterwards you have to bring the shine back by buffing and polishing.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
I would not start on something that you intend to keep. Get something to sand and polish that you don't mind ruining or pay a pro to do it. It is a good bit of work and expense to do it the right way. Only do flat spots don't try to polish an edge or seam.
2006 Superior Blue Trailblazer SS AWD, Stock as a rock
Sold: 2002 GMC Sportside Denali front end with a 2002 LS1, FLT level 5, Yank 2600, Trick Turbo, T76, Nelson intercooler, 60LB injectors, Warbro fuel pump, Eaton locker, Magnaflow, 3.42, Nelson Performance Tuning (speed density).
Sold: 1981 GMC LB RC 1500 2002 4.8L 4L60E 12 bolt 3.73 Richmond Lock Right AC PS Nelson Performance tuning
Start off with a aggressive polish first and go from there, that will get rid of scratches in the clear, swirl marks that kinda thing. If you're after the high-dollar show car look and want to get rid of the orange peel then it's time to cut, buff, polish, and wax. It takes some time to do to.
2006 SilveradoLittle Black Bitch
personally if I wet sand anything,Mix your water up with a little bit of dish soap, (i only use 1500 or 2000) the 1500 get's deeper scratches then go back over with the 2000. If your just trying to make it look slick and to get rid of orange peel then just use 2000
Then hit it with a wool pad and some glaze, then move onto your yellow foam pad with glaze, then onto your grey foam pad with swirl remover.
If you have never done it before, I recommend youtubing it or googling a full set of how to steps, because you can burn through factory clear really quick. Cause this is just a of steps I use.
Last edited by GMCvho; 05-29-2009 at 07:30 PM.
2004 Gmc VHO (LQ9), AEM cai, perma cool e-fans, aero turbine 3535,obx lt's,undedrive pulley w/overdrive alt pulley, lingenfelter 160 t-stat, zippy tune, taylor 10.4mm wires, tb bypass, Transgo HD-2 c, corvette servos, sonnax accumulator piston's,2600 stall,30,000 trans cooler lowered 1.5"/2", boss 313 22's on 285/45's, rollpan,shaved tailgate w/ss spoiler, painted interior, 2 solo l7 12's,custom fiberglass box,Pioneer F-900 Navi,SSS gauges,billet shiter and pedals,hid's (low's and fogs).
Especially Gm clear for some reason they put it on real thin
2006 SilveradoLittle Black Bitch
If you have never done this before. I STRONGLY suggest you don't touch your truck with any grit paper. Pay someone who knows what they are doing. One little slip up and your repainting a panel. Also factory clear is very thin.
hmmm i think i have successfully been convinced not to do it! lol thanks for the help guys.
i think you have saved me some money!
I think that is a wise choice.Originally Posted by jcormier89
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