+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: 1993 C1500 5.7 to 5.3 Swap

  1. #1

    1993 C1500 5.7 to 5.3 Swap

    Hello gents, new guy here wanting to confirm everything needed to conduct the Swap into my truck. I have a few bids on a 5.3 in my area and would like to know how much is too much for a complete 5.3 with harness and Ecm? Also what are the basics for the swap as in, fuel lines, fuel pump, power steering, standalone harness, swap mount plates, etc. I've read quite a few stickys but would like to ask questions on my own thread if it's not too much. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Southern Indiana
    I did the same thing, the swap really isnt too bad. I cant speak for engine prices since i built mine ground up into a 5.3 with LS1 displacement. I used a Holley Terminator EFI standalone harness and ECM specifically for the 5.3. Pricey but its a great system and it can be upgraded for the future. fuel wise i simply replaced the in-tank pump with one from a 99 or newer and was able to keep the fuel pump module with no modifications. since ive got Holley fuel rails, we cut the lines just after the fuel filter and ran braided steel lines up to the rails and back down to a pressure regulator. For the power steering, the pump is actually the same that's on a 93 pickup, the reservoir is just a little different. i had some old parts laying around and was able to put the newer reservoir on the older pump. I used TransDapt motor mount plates and while they place the motor in a great spot, i had to grind corners down so it would mount flush to the motor.
    Hopefully some of that helps and good luck on the build

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Fort Hood, TX (for now)
    I can get a complete dropout 4.8/5.3/6.0 with ecm, harness, and front drive accessories for around $600 the local junkyard. It's harder to find a 6.0 but I recommend it if you want a slightly better platform to start with. You can cut your own custom harness from the original one if you're ambitious enough and follow all the info on the lt1swap.com website. There's a ton of diagrams and pinout descriptions on that site and the creator of the site answers questions you have through email. I got my motor mounts from dirty dingo Motorsports and they looked and worked awesome. My last recommendation is that you at least do a cam swap when you have the engine out because if you don't, you'll want a little extra power later

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    BC Canada
    Just did a swap recently in my 95. Got a L33 aluminum 5.3. Made my own harness, used dirty dingo adjustable motor mounts, schoenfeld long tube headers, sachs nfw1050 flywheel (kept the stock 5 spd tranny) stock clutch. Used a cold air intake for a hummer h2 also.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Austin, TX
    I got my L59 with all accessories, harness, and ecm for $600. I cut down the harness and married it with my factory harness. I also extended the harness and ran it behind the engine so that I can mount the pcm in the cab. A lot more work and very time consuming but it gives a very clean look in my opinion. I used dirty dingo adjustable motor mounts and their R4 AC bracket to keep my original AC, you may have to get a custom length low side line. You'll need a EP-381 fuel pump, it'll fit your sending unit. Your factory power steering lines will connect to he gen III pump with no problem. Schoenfeld LT's are the best fit as well and they're priced really well if you don't opt for the ceramic coat but I've been told factory truck manifolds will clear. Keep your factory 28" radiator and get some F-body electric fans. Both V8 and V6 have the same fans. Or find a 2005 tahoe and get the radiator and fans. With a little trimming, the radiator will work. You'll have to extend your heater hoses and get a Tee to tie in the steam line from the heads or drill/tap your water pump. Get a cheap ebay CAI for a truck. When it comes to fuses you can either make your own fuse block or wire everything in and use your existing fuses and fuel pump relay. Use all your factory sending units that way your gauges will work right if you're keeping your factory gauges, you'll just need some adapters. Lastly, get a good tune like a Nelson Performance tune and you'll be good to go! It's not all that hard, the wiring is the hardest part if you're making your own harness. Hope all this helps

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    we can build you a custom stand alone harness to work with your swap, you can pm or email me ray@nelsonperformance.com
    06 rcsb, 6two, 231/235, 4.11, pacesetter, 80e, 14 bolt, Nelson tuned
    2011 rcsb 6two swap in the works with 6l90 and boost

+ Reply to Thread

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts