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Thread: The "help save my marriage" LSx swap!

  1. #21
    Well, I think the top stud does need the wire that I have hooked up there, cuz its a red wire. But if the other stud isn't used, and the remaining wire is a ground (which I thought it was), I still have a problem. I had it and the other ground wire in the loom attached to the passenger cylinder head (does it need to be in the block instead?). When I turned the key to the on position, I got some things in the engine bay to energize, but no fuel pump. And when I rotated to the start position, I got nothing, and the DRLs went off. I'm hoping this is something simple. But I also have this missing connector since I got the harness back from rework.

    EDIT EDIT: Found the gray connector hidden in the wires, I connected it and now have the fuel pump working (along w/slight leak at brass fitting I've got to seal). I connected the two ground wires to the drivers cylinder head, but still no crank. When I try to crank, the DRLs go off, but my battery is still providing 12.4 volts (drops from 13.5v). Thoughts?
    Last edited by Goldhawg; 07-04-2014 at 11:02 AM.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    New Brunswick, Canada
    Posts
    123
    R u getting power to the starter solenoid when u turn the key? Is there any paint between the starter and where its bolted to the block? The starter has to have a really good ground so make sure the block is bare clean metal where it mounts and check ur main ground connection to the block from the battery.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Las Cruces NM
    Posts
    209
    I don't remember which trans your using but are you sure the p/n switch is connected and adjusted
    97 RCSB . 2WD . 5.3 . 4l60E . E-FANS . PNP 706s . TSP 228R . 3600 STALL . HD2 . VETTE SERVO . 3.73s . 2" DROP
    TURBO IN THE WORKS

  4. #24
    Ok, problem solved. Check the simple stuff first; somehow in my removing the harness and shipping it to lextec--stupidly not putting the fuse box cover back on--I lost the starter relay! When I saw that it was missing, I was quite happy. Quick trip to Oreilly's and it cranked right away. Unfortunately it wouldn't start, but it really wanted to. As I cranked it immediately gave me 40 psi oil pressure, and I had 58 psi fuel pressure. I still have the air intake off, and I have the TBSS manifold and large DBC TB, so it may need some tweaking on the tune; my tuner thought it might and said he'd drop by and help me get it started when ready. I am going to be replacing the fuel lines (my slight leak won't stop, and I'm going to eliminate the hard line at the back of the manifold and run nylon down closer to the stock filter) mid-week, so maybe have it running by next weekend. Cross my fingers.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    28
    subscribed. Looking forward to see this this project.

  6. #26
    Well, I got my new fuel lines installed today and no leaks. But when I try to crank it, my buddy says that only two or three cylinders are firing, all on the driver side. The fuel rail reads 58 psi. I get a noid kit from oreilly's and the injector connectors are sending a signal. I pull the #2 plug out and check it and it is firing, but the plug itself is dry. I check the #4 plug and it also fires and it also is dry (but again is getting signal cuz the noid lights up). Pull the elbow off the throttle body and crank it while shooting throttle body cleaner in and the whole engine fires on both sides and runs for a few seconds before stopping when the cleaner fluid was used up. Its hard to believe I have 5-6 injectors that are bad, but I don't know how long the injectors had been sitting w/fuel in them--is it possible that the fuel could have varnished them up enough to shut them all up? These are the original LQ9 injectors that I swapped over to the TBSS manifold. I have my other LQ4 manifold and I could swap out the injectors if that is the problem, but I'd like to know if it could be anything else before I do that. Hard to believe I'd have that many stopped up.

    Thoughts?

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Las Cruces NM
    Posts
    209
    I say swap em. It's an easy task and at least you'll know.
    97 RCSB . 2WD . 5.3 . 4l60E . E-FANS . PNP 706s . TSP 228R . 3600 STALL . HD2 . VETTE SERVO . 3.73s . 2" DROP
    TURBO IN THE WORKS

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Fort Worth Texas
    Posts
    144
    google "how to clean fuel injectors off the car". You can pulse test them and clean them at the same time.They do get clogged over time from just sitting. Hope this helps.

  9. #29
    Well, success at last. I took the LQ4 injectors off the manifold last nite and soaked the ends in Seafoam overnight, just to be safe. This morning I swapped the injectors out, and the old ones did have lots of nastiness on the end. Even the fuel rail when I pulled them off had a lot of gunk, so I took qtips to those, and then sloshed some seafoam around in the rail. After installation, it fired up quite loudly; only issue is it is idling too high (1000-1500 rpm). I did just finally get the correct LS7 MAF connector w/IAT in the mail this morning; maybe installing that will slow it down a bit. You can see the start here:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20pJ...ature=youtu.be

  10. #30
    Well, my idle problem is a little more serious than I thought. The truck will not run with the MAF connector in (starts immediately but then dies just as fast); but it will start and race up with the MAF disconnected. I thought it was ~ 1500, but today I'm around 1800 and then w/my scan tool I see that actual engine RPM is double what my tach is reading (I think I've heard this can be corrected via the tune). I have the tuner coming by my house early next week, and I can see him being able to fix the not running with the MAF (I'm using an LS7 MAF and I've read there needs be tuning for the MAF and use LS7 IAT settings). But why would it race so high w/o the MAF and only using the MAP sensor?

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