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Thread: 4l80 swap what yoke?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Clarksville, tn
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    56
    i just know since it has that o-ring on it that the yoke has to slip over it and it seals the yoke so that the trans fluid doesnt get in the splines. I dont have a lot of cash left for my swap so im tryin to make sure i dont buy the wrong thing and spend money i dont need to spend.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,235
    The o ring is not needed unless your using a bolt on yolk the new trans yolk will be sealed on the end instead of having a bolt hole.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Clarksville, tn
    Posts
    56
    I figured id keep it bolt on since thats the way it came and i dont wanna deal with spline issues and what not.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,235
    Then your gonna have to have a stub and a slip yolk put in your factory shaft to make that work. The driveshaft has to have some travel in it somewhere. I work at a driveshaft shop, we build them all day every day.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Clarksville, tn
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    56
    So you recommend me cut the oring off and just use a slip yoke. I just figured since this is goin back in a truck I wouldn't need a slip yoke since it came with a bolt on yoke. So if you have what im needing would you be willing to ship me one. I really want something I can put on bolt up and go. No cutting modifying or anything. Dont want yoke tailshaft spline issues. Did you see the picture I posted of my tailshaft? The oring is different kinda flat and not easy to remove.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,235
    O ring is flat because its wore out. I'd be glad to help you. Is your shaft a 1 piece shaft or a 2 piece?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Clarksville, tn
    Posts
    56
    Lol I have no idea to be honest. How do I find that out. Its been since high school since I've even messed with a transmission

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Long Beach California
    Posts
    637
    just look at it. one piece is one long shaft with two u-joints and a yoke on one end... a two piece has another joint in the middle with a carrier bearing. the carrier bearing will have its own crossmember under the truck to sit on.

    so you know what it looks like, this is my two piece after i picked it up from the shop after my 80e swap. had the long full splined yoke and shortened 2 inches, all new joints and bearing.

    Like Tumbler in "Gone in 60" I'll drive anything with wheels or without

    My 95 ECSB LQ9 build thread - http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...to-95-obs.html
    CALI LEGAL ENGINE SWAP!
    Stock 03 LQ9, DBW, 95' 4l80e w/ Transgo shift kit, 2010 50# GM injectors, 2800 Circle D stall, Spectre CAI, Upgraded trans cooler, Home-made E-fans/shroud, Dual EP-381 fuel pumps w/Home-made hotwire kit
    NEXT ON LIST: Dual Battery setup, CAM/Valvetrain upgrade, Build my own rear mount turbo, TRU-TRAC, HIT THE STRIP!!!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Clarksville, tn
    Posts
    56
    Oooooh I thought he meant tailshaft lol not drive shaft. Yes its a one piece drive shaft. I feel dumb right now. He said shaft and I was assuming we where still talkin about tailshaft and yoke. Plus I was at work dealin with a dumb supply sgt. Wasnt thinkin.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Long Beach California
    Posts
    637
    haha. Brain fart... we all been there. no prob bud.
    Like Tumbler in "Gone in 60" I'll drive anything with wheels or without

    My 95 ECSB LQ9 build thread - http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...to-95-obs.html
    CALI LEGAL ENGINE SWAP!
    Stock 03 LQ9, DBW, 95' 4l80e w/ Transgo shift kit, 2010 50# GM injectors, 2800 Circle D stall, Spectre CAI, Upgraded trans cooler, Home-made E-fans/shroud, Dual EP-381 fuel pumps w/Home-made hotwire kit
    NEXT ON LIST: Dual Battery setup, CAM/Valvetrain upgrade, Build my own rear mount turbo, TRU-TRAC, HIT THE STRIP!!!

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