+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: When to wet sand?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Burleson, Texas
    Posts
    389

    When to wet sand?

    I am getting ready to repaint my SS bumper and want to get the best results possible from a spray can. I did some mirrors a while back with primer, then a couple coats of color, then wet sand and buff and they turned out pretty good but this time I want a better shine. Should I do the wet sanding before or after the clear? Or both? I don't know much about paint.
    '00 Silverado 4.8L (Gone)
    '11 Silverado 4.8L

    Quote Originally Posted by RUFFNECK View Post
    ...First relieve the pressure before doin' that or else you will get a nasty squirt and may get in ur eye.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    baxley,ga
    Posts
    195
    Quote Originally Posted by yournamehere018 View Post
    I am getting ready to repaint my SS bumper and want to get the best results possible from a spray can. I did some mirrors a while back with primer, then a couple coats of color, then wet sand and buff and they turned out pretty good but this time I want a better shine. Should I do the wet sanding before or after the clear? Or both? I don't know much about paint.
    water sand it with 400grit real good.dry it off when finish.clean it with wax and grease romover then 2 coats of paint.10 mins between coats.then 10 mins after 2nd coat put a coat of clear on then wait 10mins then put last coat on.you get the idea.i never painted a truck with a spray can but thats the way a body shop would do it.after it dries,you can cut and buff it.this will make it real slick and get trash out if any.water sand it with 1000grit then 2500grit.then buff
    04 rcsb forged 347

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Burleson, Texas
    Posts
    389
    Ok cool thank you! I just didn't know if wet sanding before the clear would achieve a better result or just make it harder for the clear to stick.
    '00 Silverado 4.8L (Gone)
    '11 Silverado 4.8L

    Quote Originally Posted by RUFFNECK View Post
    ...First relieve the pressure before doin' that or else you will get a nasty squirt and may get in ur eye.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    baxley,ga
    Posts
    195
    Quote Originally Posted by yournamehere018 View Post
    Ok cool thank you! I just didn't know if wet sanding before the clear would achieve a better result or just make it harder for the clear to stick.
    don't sand it before you clear it.after you clear it and it dries instead of cuting and buffing it you could sand it with 1000grit then reclear it again.either way you want to do it.btw if you cut and buff it becarefull and not burn threw the paint
    04 rcsb forged 347

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    In a van down by the river- MD
    Posts
    391
    I agree to sand it before paint, however , I think 400 is a lil ruff. I would start by hitting it with 5-800, just to haze it, open up the plastic some.. Then wipe it down good with alcohol, paint thinner.. If you have a tac cloth that will work after you clean it with the cleaners.. Paper towels work extremely well also.. Spray it with the paint your going to use.. Do however many coats you feel you want to do. Make sure it is even, spray the next coat while the previous coat is still tacky.. Once you have finished that, let that tack up, hit it with clear. Do the clear the same way as you do the paint, for however many coats you want.. Then once that has dried, hit with 2000 paper, water.. Go even with the strokes, keep the paper wet.. Then you have to buff it.. Buff if on low speed like 14-1700. Do not get it hot, always pull away from the edges.. Use a super super fine or even a finish cut.. Spray paint clear is a little softer then the good stuff.. I have done out board engine covers, valve covers, all kinds of things with rattle can paint it has turned out like a job I have done out of a gun. Prep is key to painting, not rushing through it.. vIf you would happen to get a run, let it dry and just sand that area out, then hit it with another coat of paint or clear.. Prep and finishing is where it as. The stuff in between can be persuaded some
    Last edited by Mangled03gmc; 01-20-2011 at 02:36 AM.
    JOHN



  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    West Texas
    Posts
    406
    Quote Originally Posted by Mangled03gmc View Post
    I agree to sand it before paint, however , I think 400 is a lil ruff. I would start by hitting it with 5-800, just to haze it, open up the plastic some.. Then wipe it down good with alcohol, paint thinner.. If you have a tac cloth that will work after you clean it with the cleaners.. Paper towels work extremely well also.. Spray it with the paint your going to use.. Do however many coats you feel you want to do. Make sure it is even, spray the next coat while the previous coat is still tacky.. Once you have finished that, let that tack up, hit it with clear. Do the clear the same way as you do the paint, for however many coats you want.. Then once that has dried, hit with 2000 paper, water.. Go even with the strokes, keep the paper wet.. Then you have to buff it.. Buff if on low speed like 14-1700. Do not get it hot, always pull away from the edges.. Use a super super fine or even a finish cut.. Spray paint clear is a little softer then the good stuff.. I have done out board engine covers, valve covers, all kinds of things with rattle can paint it has turned out like a job I have done out of a gun. Prep is key to painting, not rushing through it.. vIf you would happen to get a run, let it dry and just sand that area out, then hit it with another coat of paint or clear.. Prep and finishing is where it as. The stuff in between can be persuaded some
    +1
    RUN WAT U BRUNG!!!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    baxley,ga
    Posts
    195
    my bad when i said 400grit,i was thinking metal parts but i usually use a scotch bright on plastics
    04 rcsb forged 347

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Devine, Texas
    Posts
    114
    Lots of good info here. I also use scotch brite to prep plastic, it goes faster if you use a gritty paste (forgot the name) along with the pad. Since you asked about when to wet sand. Wet sand after you've cleared and its dried. You can nib the little spots of trash with 1000-1500. Once you get the trash taken care of step out the whole thing with 1500, 2500, 3000. If you could get the 3000 for a DA sander, it buffs like butter once you finish. Good luck, post pics and the method used when you get it done.
    LS6, 222/224, Yank ss3600, 4.10s, Thorleys, HP tuned

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Waco TX
    Posts
    3,130
    Quote Originally Posted by casey.shoemake View Post
    Lots of good info here. I also use scotch brite to prep plastic, it goes faster if you use a gritty paste (forgot the name) along with the pad. Since you asked about when to wet sand. Wet sand after you've cleared and its dried. You can nib the little spots of trash with 1000-1500. Once you get the trash taken care of step out the whole thing with 1500, 2500, 3000. If you could get the 3000 for a DA sander, it buffs like butter once you finish. Good luck, post pics and the method used when you get it done.

    The paste is called Scuff Stuff.
    DANIEL CAMMED SS 13.46 @ 98.17-- 8.58 @ 80.31

    2003 Silverado SS / LQ9 6.0L / Wheatley 93 Octane Tune / 224/228 .581 .588 110lsa / Patriot Gold Dual Springs / Comp Hardened Push Rods / Circle D 3800 stall / Pacesetter LT's / 4:10 Gears / Transgo HD-2 Shift Kit / K & N Cold Air Intake / Corvette Servo / Aeroforce Interceptor / Autometer Narrorband(Wideband on the way) / Mobile 1 Synthetic / Single Chamber Flows with X Pipe / Cats Delete with Cutouts


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    171
    Are you guys sure about all this sanding with a rattle can? 10 minutes between base and clear coats? i attempted to paint my bike over the summer first with rattle cans and wasnt happy, the clear formed a haze that wouldnt polish out. Id recommend buying a cheap gun off ebay, I got mine for $.99 and do it right, you'll be so much happier you did. Just my 2 cents...
    Attached Images
    Last edited by Sargen; 02-10-2011 at 11:53 PM.
    04 GMC Regency - Building a 6.0 Comp 7.4" Hi-Tech Pushrods, Patriot Performance 8401 Spring Kit, Comp Double Roller Timing Chain, ARP Rod Bolts, ARP Head Bolts, Cam - I dont know yet, any suggestions???
    89 Chevy Cheyenne - 10/24/09 Time of death declaired at 8:16pm.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts