I'm in an interesting situation with this vehicle, a 2002 Suburban. I agreed to help a friend and swap the motor for him (original motor had 200k+ and 2 rod bearings knocking badly). I have 12 years of mechanic experience and several years of custom frame off restoration experience.
I scored my buddy a clean 5.3 with 70k miles from another 02 suburban. After about 30 hours of labor (did it all myself!) the new engine was ready to crank last night. I turned it over, oil pressure jumped right up, all looked well, engine studdered (never started), I hit the fuel purge valve on the incoming fuel line (top of manifold) to release the air. Air out..good. At this point I assumed she would fire right up...wrong. When the motor cranks it is hitting on at least a couple cylinders...sounds like it wants to start but is severely out of time...the fuel or spark is off. I confirmed the engine had spark and fuel of course. Interestingly enough during the troubleshoot I pulled the plugs, 1 was soaked in fuel, the rest were dry.
The only variables that were changed were as follows...the crankshaft position sensor connector/pigtail (back of intake manifold) broke when the motor was pulled. I replaced it with a new pigtail and used the wiring diagram found in the Chilton's for 2000-06 Burbs, Tahoes, 1500 pickups. Also, the driver side head has 1 bolt that was snapped off (exhaust manifold mount) when the salvage yard took the motor out...so it does have a tiny exhaust leak..nothing that should prevent a start however. I will note however the plug that was soaked in fuel was aligned with where the leak is.
I put a scanner on, pulled no codes. Questioning the new pigtail I pulled the plug on the CPS, and immediately got a low code for the CPS...making me more sure the wiring is correct?
I'm not sure what to do here, did I miss a pre start step? Is the PCM retaining old information (had no voltage for 2 weeks)? Could there be air in the fuel rails at the injectors preventing a start? Being the LS there's no way for me to manually adjust the timing without a more expensive scanner...and even so that shouldn't be necessary? ANY help would be appreciate here, 12 years of wrenching and I've never been so stumped.
On a final note the Security light comes on when I open the door flashing, it turns off when I turn the key forward or shut the door...it's not the typical Chevy security issue (i.e. turn the key and nothing happens). This may just be normal?
Thank you in advance!