l33 t56 240sx

[ducky]

yeah 5.3s or ls1s in 240s are bad bitches

[ma.racing]

i workin on it what im lookin at right now is on ebay has a l33 with harness and pre programed pcm for a swap aka rear o2 delete egr delete stuff like that for 1800 is that a good price ?

[MunsonAuto]

If you're gonna go through the wiring hassle of a RB, at least go with the RB25. I am planning on a RB25 (possibly RB26 depending on how motivated i am) S13 coupe next summer, but we'll see how that goes.

For a regular 5.3l I would think so, but for a complete aluminum block 5.3l it seems reasonable. But a complete 5.3l isn't really necessary...seeing's how you'll be swapping: intake manifold, fuel rail (can make truck injectors work easily, just bend the rail inlet a bit), waterpump, power steering pump, alternator bracket, a/c if you choose to attempt that; all from a f-body. You can run vette stuff, but the front drive accessories are generally harder to get (in my experience at least) and idk if the altered position of everything will work for our swap.

The all aluminum 5.3l should be a lighter than stock setup, LS1 w/T56's are...but mine I'm sure is heavier than stock, but i've got a iron block 5.3l. Oh well haha.

MA.Racing, I'll answer your PM in here for simplicity reasons..I'm already typing haha.
I have yet to run the car at the strip. My tune was very rich all last year (34% rich to be exact haha), the thought that my engine was a flex fuel (thus having bigger 33lb/hr injectors) never crossed my mind when i had it tuned...or when i got the "Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Low" code. But I will have a time whenever the local strip opens up (Napierville dragway in Canada).
As far as gauges, I'm running 3 prosport gauges (voltage, water temp., and oil pressure) in a custom made aluminum plate that replaces the center air vent. The tach. and speedo I just found the wire where it comes out of the stock ecu and heads to them, and connected that to the wires coming out of my pcm for those signals (I had my harness work done by Wait4MePerformance). The tach signal should be the same, I dont think Jesse had to change it in the tune, so those wires just plug and play and your tach should work. The speedometer on the other hand you'll need a "Dakota Digital Correction" box...you connect both wires, play with the dip switches until you get it right then your done. My smart computer/electronics buddy thinks you could make one if you found out the resistance the box was adding or whatever it does, but for $80 i just figure i'll buy the box rather than go through the hassle of building something ghetto.
I'm realizing now that I'm not happy with my engine mounts. I focused on getting the engine "low"..i believe this caused me to not get it as far back as i would have liked. At the time i didn't care, i just wanted it done, but now it's bothering me that i have a hood scoop to cover the DBW throttle body.
Otherwise i'm very pleased with the car and how it performs...all though i do have to rebuild the rear end now .
Here's some pics:














And how it sits now....perfect super clean California S13...now this

[§tev0n]

munson,
i've been meaning to ask you, what did you do about the 5.3 throttle body coolant lines? The bridge between the two outlets on mine hits the water pump and won't let me bolt the throttle body all the way down. Is it safe to grind that part down?

MA,
I'm not sure how much the L33's go for, but I picked up my lm7, complete with all front accessories, wiring harness, ecu,...everything for $450. You should check car-part.com around your area to see what you can find. They were usually going for near $600 for iron block 5.3s around here.

[MunsonAuto]

It's been a while...setup is so reliable i don't spend much time under the hood of it...oil changes and that's it.
But, I don't believe i'm running it. I think i cut the middle section out and capped the ends off.
I'll check on that tomorrow for ya.
I got my 5.3l complete w/ all accessories and what not for $850 w/ 83k miles btw.

[ma.racing]

yea but that is iron blocks i am tryin my hardest to get an alumminum block and the l33 has ls6 heads and a 490 lift cam stock ha ha

what pedel did you use for the drive by wire and how motor mounts do you think i should try not gettin the motor so low and just put a scoop on it or what

thanks

[ma.racing]

o and i forget what kinda radeator are you guys runnin

and i am also doin the tuning my self with hp tuner and a wide band

was it hard gettin the trany lind up and how about the drive shaft

[§tev0n]

I'm using carshop inc. mounts ~ $115. Universal LSx mounts you cut to fit.

Running a CX Racing KA radiator, you can get them for like $200 or so on ebay. I've had good experiences with them before.

Munson's motor is set just a little bit higher than mine, by all estimation mine should fit under the stock hood.

I'm also going to tune mine w/ hp tuners when i can eventually find someone selling it used.

[MunsonAuto]

I'm also using the same carshop inc. generic LSx "hot rod" mounts...cut to length..simple.
For a radiator i'm running a good old Koyo KA aluminum radiator, really really good quality...$300 well spent in my eyes. I'm running 98 Altima fans as well...there's a few tests that prove they out flow the flex-a-lites and the like.
Again, i'm not happy with my mounts..but my shifter was inside the factory hole, but with my custom seat mounts (i'm a taller guy so i made them as far back as possible) i didn't like having to "reach" for the shifter, so i just made a little aluminum bracket that bolted to the pro 5.0 shifter arm, then bolted the actual shifter to that..i can get pics if need be.
I used a DBW pedal out of a truck i found in the junk yard haha. cut the arm to desired length, rewelded...and bolted it in to the stock 240sx location. Turned out well in my opinion.

[ma.racing]

il prop do that with the pedal and i was gona make my own mounts but il by them that cheap im a short guy really short at 5f7 ha ha so that should work for me thats a nice car munson