LS2 vs. LQ4

[01blackerado]

Well I promise I didnt mean that for anyone else since I directly quoted you

So if someone asked you why your truck is black and not grey...THE ONLY ANSWER to it is that the manufacture painted it that way???? I mean couldn't you argue that its black because you wanted it that color. or because the manufacturer ran out of paint on that dy and decided to make 100 more trucks in black to save up and i ended up getting one!?!? My point being theres more than one answer for not buying the LS2 (ALUMINUM) Block other than price!! YES YOU ARE RIGHT!!!!!!!!! PRICE IS A HUGE ISSUE, but, I merely gave him another thing to look at especially if he decides to go much further with his project than you or I. Im shooting for 1200hp 1200ftlbs. Turbo'd and Direct port N2O...I would not recommend starting that kind of platform on an Aluminum block because, NOT ONLY DOES IT COST MORE but, It has a HIGHER chance to crack when under alot of pressure+added LOAD of the vechicle!!! You talk about how the manufacture makes some of these trucks with aluminum blocks, YES YOU ARE RIGHT but, Are these trucks used for towing?? Are they EXcab fullsize trucks? Crew cabs?? Or are the SSR's?? I dont know of any BONE STOCK 2500's with aluminum blocks!?!? Did GM say oh "F" it lets just make an IRON version of the aluminum 5.7l to add more weight to the trucks!?!?

[01blackerado]

No need to go there Im not knocking just felt like i was being attacked...I'll explain

You dont need N2O plus the turbo for those numbers, I did this because i wanted another way to Cool IAT's when under boost besides Methanol. I used the DP system so I can use the N2O to drop IAT's, and the Fuel to control my AFR better. By adding in the larger fuel spray nozzels I can richen my system up, add 225 hp, and cool down IAT's all at the same time. wanted to try something different since alot of people go with Meth since its alot cheaper

[01blackerado]

Yes and no IAT's can be measured via your own IAT sensor or the IAT sensor from the MAF. I dont want it to register though!!! This is for my peace of mind...I dont know if you tune or not but in the PCM it reads the IAT's and decides a couple things. 1. Spark correction 2. PE enrichment...There are more but these are the two i care about. I dont want my PCM to sense that the IAT's are lower thus moving me into a more powerful cell of spark or enrichment...I want the IAT's to drop( because of efficiency one, 2 to keep the block safe) but not have the PCM add more spark or enrichen my fuel anymore. It can easily be tuned out, but if the PCM never sees it in the first place then i never have to worry about it. So all i have to do is make a safe Spark and enrichment table for the higher IAT's since that's all it will see

[RedHeartbeat]

Isn't the new L92/L76 engine an aluminum block? Don't they also put that engine in 3/4 and one ton trucks? I'll have to read the posts on the cracked aluminum blocks, that's the first time I've ever heard of an LSx block cracking. I guess I learnsomething new every day. I know Ford has a problem with the 5.0 blocks cracking.

[SLO TRUCK]

wow all i was wonder was why or why not. ls2, that **** is funny

[GMCwantsLS1]

I would like to see some pictures of a failed (cracked) LSX block so I can see how it failed. If it is simply a rod stuck through the block, I've seen a few iron blocks like that as well. I think the C5R block is aluminum as well.

[RedHeartbeat]

Do you have any other links to a cracked GenIII block? The one below was Parish's engine block and it cracked a cylinder wall, the thinnest load bearing part of the engine. That can happen with any engine made from cast iron and bored out to the limits. The Ford blocks would physically split when they failed.


Yeah, it's easier to pay roughly $3600 for a brand new LQ9 engine than to pay $5800 for an LS2.

[GMCwantsLS1]

Do you have any other links to a cracked GenIII block? The one below was Parish's engine block and it cracked a cylinder wall, the thinnest load bearing part of the engine. That can happen with any engine made from cast iron and bored out to the limits. The Ford blocks would physically split when they failed.

Yes they split in the lifter valley.

[GMCwantsLS1]

First off this thread might be a bit off topic. I don't think anyone meant to step on any toes, just prevent the spread of misinformation, or at any case learn new information. I think the main answer to the question is price. As far as durability at most power levels and uses either should perform well.

[01blackerado]

Just head over to the LS1tech.com website and search cracked aluminum blocks, there are a few BS post in there but a few others that are talking about their block cracking and if they should JB weld it etc etc etc. I'm not sure why you find it hard to beleive that any engine with enough load and power will crack. Why is it so much harder to believe that the softer aluminum metal can crack if under too much pressure?? Its like youre trying to argue that the sky is blue 100% of the time in vegas and it will never rain.

PLAIN AND SIMPLE ALL BLOCKS CRACK UNDER EXTREME PRESSURES, TEMPS, AND LOAD. Softer metal has a tendacy to crack or warp sooner then harder metals. Have you ever heard of a warped head?? Have you heard of a warped iron head?? Metal warps guys no matter how you slice it. If not then blocks would never have an issue other than internals. I've seen personally cracked main journals, infact my bottom end came out of a cracked block. The guy went to build it and didnt realize it was crack until he seated the the crank into the main journal then gave up. Sold the whole setup to me and i used an iron 5.3l block, bored it to 3.903 noched the block and put in a 4.000" crank with 6.25 rods in there -30cc dished pistons.