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Thread: Pacesetter Longtubes

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    151
    Quote Originally Posted by kerrige View Post
    Use a ton of PB blast on the manifold bolts several times over several hours before removing them. Lots of people break them, but if you soak them first then it will make your life and this job a lot easier.
    Is pb blast just like dw 40 or no

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    North East Ohio
    Posts
    278
    WD40 I believe is just a lubricant. PB actually penetrates the rust and helps dissolve the rust.
    2010 Silverado 4.8 Ext Cab 4x4
    Cam, Stall, 4.88's

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    193
    Quote Originally Posted by Gus View Post
    Yea I am looking at a cam and a prochager within the next year so warranty will be out the door. I was thinking of selling the factory Y on craigslist or scrapping cats (whichever more Profitable) and buying some transmission upgrades servos, piston acummulator and transgo HD2. Trying to find a write up on the acummulator piston install.
    If your looking at a procharger and your serious about getting it! You'd be wasting money on a 60e. Buy an 80e put a hd2,vette servo and you'll be good. Also I hope you put a blower cam in it. I'd wait on cam for now n do it right from the beginning.

    MY TRUCK IS A HYBRID!!! IT BURNS GAS AND RUBBER....
    2011 GMC CCSB
    Flaco Tune, CAI, Muffler
    13.8 @100
    340hp 352tq

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    North East Ohio
    Posts
    278
    I skimmed through the 80e conversion but saw some people were having problems with the 4x4 swap. My transfer case selector is a manual version on the floor and I think most of the people that had problems with the electronic selector. Would a 80e with transfer case work with this set up? I know I would most likely have to change driveshaft length.
    2010 Silverado 4.8 Ext Cab 4x4
    Cam, Stall, 4.88's

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    North East Ohio
    Posts
    278
    So just an update, I got the headers almost complete on the 2010. The rear driverside bolt is a b*tch to get to. I pulled the inner fenders which does make things much easier. Passenger side was everything you could ever ask for when working on a something, came right apart, header slid in from the bottom. Driver side I had to go through the top and did not need to disconnect steering shaft. I would have had a bit more room if I would have disconnected the front driveshaft but was able to work around it. I needed to cut the original exhaust before the YPipe clamp since the bolt was rusted so I could not complete until I got another piece of pipe. Another tip is to completely remove the transmission crossmember this helps a lot.
    Last edited by Gus; 12-29-2011 at 11:27 AM.
    2010 Silverado 4.8 Ext Cab 4x4
    Cam, Stall, 4.88's

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    In a van down by the river- MD
    Posts
    387
    Good to hear you got them in with out to much issue.. Only problem I see is if you get alot of rain or snow, they are going to be ready for replacing within a 2 year period..
    JOHN



  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Stephenville,Tx
    Posts
    193
    An issue I had and it may have just been my set, I had them on for about a year and then swapped motors and when i put them back on they seemed to collapse in and the drivers side started to rub against my 4wd drive shaft but I just pulled the shaft and did a little massaging to the header and it doesnt rub anymore
    2006 Chevy ECSB 5.3 - New L33 Motor,CAI, Descreened MAF, Nelson 93 tune, Transgo Shift Kit, servos, 3in exhaust, Borla, pacetter LT's, and ORY, Aeroforce Furture: stall, cam, 4.10's

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Arizona/Utah
    Posts
    3,939
    Quote Originally Posted by Mangled03gmc View Post
    Good to hear you got them in with out to much issue.. Only problem I see is if you get alot of rain or snow, they are going to be ready for replacing within a 2 year period..
    Just hit them with some plastidip
    ECSB 2kSierra 2wd 4.8L-K&N-HPtuners-Calspeed LT's-Magnaflow-Tahoe20's-HankookRH06

    waiting to go in... 3.90s, 214/220cam

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    North East Ohio
    Posts
    278
    Another update everything is on and I just need to go through and retighten since I have been through the first heat cycle. My god you feel every exhaust puff there is, I had a series 10 flowmaster on the truck prior to this since and it sounded really good. Now it’s crazy loud so I think I will be shopping for a muffler soon. Not sure about anyone else but I’m still really surprised I cannot turn the tires over from a dead stop. I have a tune (with supposed torque management reduction), intake, header exhaust, factory 265 tires and 3.42 with stock torque converter. I cannot get these damn things to move on a dry road or even trying a brake torque. Any one out there with a newer 4.8 having similar problem?

    Here is a link to the Youtube video on stock exhaust/ flowmaster with factory manifolds. http://youtu.be/iTSZqJQ6CqA
    Short clip after the longtubes were installed http://youtu.be/wZ_k3PbZ7i8
    2010 Silverado 4.8 Ext Cab 4x4
    Cam, Stall, 4.88's

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Stephenville,Tx
    Posts
    193
    its the 3.42's and stock converter swap to 4.10's and at least a 2800 converter and you'll burn them up
    2006 Chevy ECSB 5.3 - New L33 Motor,CAI, Descreened MAF, Nelson 93 tune, Transgo Shift Kit, servos, 3in exhaust, Borla, pacetter LT's, and ORY, Aeroforce Furture: stall, cam, 4.10's

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