To set up the accessories required a “VETTE” system as the AC compressor is mounted high on the LH side, instead of cutting the frame to accommodate it on the RH side (F-body accessories mounting system), But be advised that the short harmonic balancer adaptor and a VETTE harmonic balancer is needed for this system. The PS hose is a by-gosh and by- golly endeavor at best, but doable, hose PN XXXXXX worked well with some slight tweaking
. http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5661139598
To simplify the fuelling; I maintained the stock LT1 fuel pressure rails lines, and regulator, purchased 27lb injectors, I then cut the stock Vortec fuel lines off just below the hard line fittings at the firewall. I procured two sets of Brass compression ring fittings with barbed hose fittings. Installed one set on the cut lines, and the other set on the LT1 fuel lines with high pressure fuel hose ran between the two; and of course fuel line clamps, not to be mistaken for regular hose clamps.
I did have to build my own throttle and cruise cable mount, simply cut up the LT, and the Vortec brackets, and married the two.

The last item was a cold air intake system; I originally I had a TPI in the truck, and utilized the left head light location
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5563416994
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5563419322
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5562846237 a good picture of the TPI
. With the LT1; the accessories were in the way to go to the left side. So I preformed the same process to the right side. Removed the head light assembly to facilitate cutting, and to modify the headlight assy. I had to relocate the battery to the driver’s side to make room for the air filter housing, a 10 inch piece of 5 inch PVC pipe, the cone filter fits perfectly, nice and tight inside the PVC. Took the PVC pipe cut one end at a 11 degree angle, placed it against the back side of the radiator support, marked the front of the support for cut out. I then mounted the PVC to the radiator support and installed the filter.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5562835853
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5562837531
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5563413838
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5562826751
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5562827631
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5562828561
The head light modification; I removed everything that I possibly could without destroying the structural integrity of the mount, to allow the maximum amount of air to pass through to the beast behind.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5563406258
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5562832359
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5562833405
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5562834513
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5563410504
After reinstalling the headlight assy. This is what you see behind it
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5563414354
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/5562841005
I put the front of the truck back together, then it was time to do the first start up and wringing out the small little gotchas. After a few failed attempts to light it off I sprayed carb-cleaner in the intake, it would run as long as I maintained the can. I checked the fuel pump, it was coming on and building pressure, but no pressure registering on the gauge???? Retraced the fuel lines and found that I had swapped the hoses from the firewall to the Rails, thus applying pressure to the back side of the regulator…I R Smart . Other than a blown ECM 2 fuse all was well, she was ready to make her madden voyage, all went well for an out of the box start and run tune. I could tell that is was either fat or lean, but ran fairly well. My hat is off to LEXTECH for the outstanding program that he built for this truck, the 4x4 fuelling even worked right.
Took it to the Dyno to be tuned, first pass was 240.9HP and 316lb/tq Nice Job LEX!!,
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/6176153599
Final pass was 251.3hp and 329lb/tq that translates to over 350hp and 400lb/tq at the flywheel while not outstanding it is defiantly great for what I have done with it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/6176679110 it is kind of hard to read due to the data being distorted.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/6176141651
It is having a slight drivability issue, when the trans shifts, the timing is dropped completely out to “0” causing a stutter like situation, it quickly resets and clears up. LEX is working on this as this is being typed.
Here is the final Dyno run http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/6196840943
My many thanks to the people that helped with suggestions and work on the things that I could not do.
First to my youngest son “Josh” at 16 he is a life saver, I had major back surgery during this build, and Josh was my hands, feet and back for most of this project. Not to mention his patience with a cranky old man, LOL!
Next; much gratitude to LEXTECH “Jeff” for his technical knowledge, experience, suggestions, that without his help, this project could never have been finished, much less started. I knew what I wanted to do, but Jeff helped me pull it all together and make it go.
Then there is the machine shop, Aaron is set up to repeat the work that he did to build my intake, $250 will get it done. He is an excellent machinist with a solid creative streak.
King Precision Machine,
2709 East 4th Avenue
Hutchinson, KS 67501-1965
(620) 663-1618
Open Weekdays 9am-5pm
And then the Dyno dude, Chris knows his shi----stuff, he is defiantly on his game. It was a pleasure to watch a pro in his element; thanks again Chris the tune is working great.
Wichita Dyno,
1851 S Hoover Rd,
Wichita, Kansas 67209 -295-
(316) 295-4285 4285