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Thread: Master cylinder for a T56?

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  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by pnhigg View Post
    I have heard the same about the Keisler unit. I had a bunch of problems with the first one...it wouldn't keep the transmission in 6th gear. I called Keisler, and they disassembled the transmission, and replaced the kit which now shifts very well. They told me that the first ones they made (which I had one of) had some issues that were corrected. Mine shifts great

    You can't use a pro 5.0 shifter in the front hole because you have to cut add a piece into the center of the transmission rail for the shifter to fit in to.

    90'rado
    I would be interested in any pictures you might have of your shifter.
    Wish I had a 14 bolt. That is what these trucks should have behind the manual transmission, and I think you will love the 4.88.
    The guy that wrote that writeup used that mustang cobra pro 5.0 shifter in the front hole but he had to modify it, and he also was running the keisler relocation kit.
    I've misplaced my camera, but I'll post some pics of my shifter asap.
    If you look around you can find a 14 bolt for the right price. I got my 14 bolt, a spare TBI ECM, and a throttle body all for the price of $50 bucks, which I thought was pretty good. I agree with you there, GM should have put 14 bolts in these trucks and skipped the 10 bolt altogether, but it shouldn't be that difficult to swap it over. Pretty much everything should bolt right up if you get the right axle. Yeah I'm sooo ready to get the 4.88's under the truck, I'm sure you remember how crappy it was to have a nice V8 and a 6 speed but to be stuck with 3.08 gears. Well it's pretty bad for me anyways b/c I have 29" tires. 6th gear is virtually useless right now with the 3.08 gears.

    Quote Originally Posted by Old Nash View Post
    pnhigg
    Were you able to use same drive shaft from 305/5sp in 5.3/6sp? I can never shift fast from 1 to 2 without letting up on gas. I wonder if you had same problem w/5sp. I see on Ls1tech there is a
    fix to drill a larger hole to pass more fluid.

    90"rado
    What year truck did 14 bolt come from? Bolt pattern problem?
    If you're talking about shifting fast with an NV3500 or NV4500, those aren't exactly fast shifting transmissions, most truck transmissions aren't. The 14 bolt I'm working on was from an '88 C2500. It should bolt right up for the most part. The 4wd versions had a wider track width, so you want to make sure you get a 2wd axle for a 2wd truck. Also, there have been some changes to the 14 bolt over the years in terms of bracket placement and whatnot, but if you try to find an axle from a donor truck that is close to the year model of the one you'd be swapping the axle into, you should be fine. For example, a 14 bolt from before 88, or after 98 would still work, but there would likely be some brackets in different spots. This is why I pulled mine from an 88 C2500, it should bolt right up because the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks had a common frame.

    As far as bolt pattern problems there shouldn't be any of those either. My 14 bolt is a 6 lug axle( the 5lugs are rare), so I'm going to convert the front to match, which is as simple as swapping in some 6 lug rotors.


    Quote Originally Posted by gl18rider View Post
    I'd like to go with the Keisler unit, but it's getting pricey with the cost of the kit and the trans work. I'm thinking I might go with the McLeod shifter that can move it 4.1" forward from stock. I'd rather not have to open up the transmission for the Keisler unit.
    I'm also curious about the drive shaft question.
    Post up some info if you can on that Mcleod deal, I'm just curious what they've got to offer in comparison to Keisler. I actually like having the stock location of the T56 shifter, I like having the shifter that much closer to me.

    Quote Originally Posted by pnhigg View Post
    The vss reluctor gear in the T56 is a 17 tooth gear whereas the 4L60E is a 40 tooth. If you have access to HP tuner you can change the setting in the pcm and the speedo will work. The other options mentioned would also work.
    I had to shorten my driveshaft considerably. There is a guy near my hometown that will do the work relatively inexpensive, so I had it shortened and rebalanced which has worked well.

    I can shift it pretty quick, but you have to hit everything just right for the 1-2 shift without letting off. The drill mod you are referring to is related to the a restriction in the line on the f-body cars. My line was hard line from the master so it has no restriction.
    The problem in my case is that even though the shifter is relatively short throw when you add an 18 inch stick on the end of it, you end up with a throw much longer than say in a firebird or mustang.

    The McLeod unit you mention should work fine. I don't think it was available when I did my conversion...or at least I didn't find it.
    I thought it was a 17 tooth reluctor but I wasn't sure. Yeah using the tuning software to adjust for the different tooth count is probably the easiest way, but that wasn't even an option for me with the stone age TBI ECM lol.

    You are the first and only person I've talked to that has done the T56 swap in an OBS and also had to change the drive shaft length! I think maybe this is due to the fact that you were previously setup with a V6?? I can't think of any other reason. Yeah my truck has always been a V8, but it was originally an automatic, I didn't have to change anything about my driveshaft. Maybe i just got lucky.

    I like having really short throws, I'm running the short stick that originally came with my PRO 5.0, and I've topped it off with a pistol grip handle, it works nicely for me.
    Last edited by 90'rado; 07-24-2010 at 02:52 PM.

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